@negusm Thanks for the thorough writeup my 01 is at 220k it might come in handy.

Cool, you could be right that it was the canister...after 20 years, I decided, it's just not worth figuring it out. Everything was suspect.

Can you post the alternate part numbers for the canister? It helps people out. I did not find any other part number for 2001-2002 and it's supposed to be for all trim levels. "77740-35482" does replace a prior part number "77740-35481" but the old one, if you find it, should work.

Thanks again @negusm , 5 months 5k mi my turn.
I ran my VIN made 11/00 Olathe Toyota web site 82 replaces 81 either will work @ $328 now.

Hey first off thanks for all the great information! I was talking to a tech at my local dealership the other day and I had mentioned I wanted to go through and start replacing my fuel system and evap system. He mentioned to look up nylon hoses instead of going with the traditional tubing but I would just need to figure out the inner diameter of the current hosing. Do you by chance happen to know what it is? I'm afraid of pulling a line off and breaking it and then leaving my vehicle stuck sitting there until everything is ordered and arrives. TIA!

Using should of spent parts list shopping around now costs $808.46. Not bad considering.

I'm wondering if the Check Valve is my issue? I'm getting no codes, but sometimes I get a strong gas smell around the fuel filler neck. Its REALLY bad when I go offroad, but it happens every once in a while.

That is most likely the check valve on top of the tank.

Mike

Is your EVAP readiness monitor set? If it’s not it will not code EVAP issues.


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Thanks for the great write up! I currently have 3 codes and the smell of gas outside of the car. Additionally, several months ago I was off-roading and on a steep incline and smelled gas. I looked under the car and saw a stream of gas flowing out of the top of the tank.

I've spent the weekend diagnosing potential issues using the tests found in the FSM and another thread titled: "P0440 Fixed!". A fuel tank pressure test revealed that a large amount of air was flowing from the check valve. I put my hand through the hole in the floor under the back seat and felt air coming from the check valve. I also performed a test to check the check valve and it failed. I also tested the VSV on the charcoal canister and it failed (it was as if there was no longer a valve inside). While the charcoal canister was out I performed pressure and vacuum tests on the canister. It passed the pressure tests but failed the vacuum ( I was not able to achieve any vacuum). The charcoal in the canister can also be easily heard when moving it or shaking it.

I've come to the conclusion that my check valve/gasket is shot and the charcoal canister needs to be replaced. Due to the cost of canister I'm planning on fixing the issues on the tank first and going from there. I've ordered a new check valve/gasket and a cut-off valve. I'm having trouble finding a gasket for the cut-off valve and appreciate any help! If there are any suggestions as well please feel free to share.

Hey, going to replace the hoses too while doing this on my 2002, you get the sizes figured out?

It mentions 6 mm and 8 mm earlier in the post... I measured the OD of some of the hard line to hose tubing and it was all over the place, like 6.5 mm - 10.5 mm...

I too went down the hose diameter journey to no avail.

I ended up buying a set of mixed diameter fuel hoses from Jeff Bezos that ranged in different sizes and chose the size that best fit and attached with worm clamps.

I believe it was 3/16th or 3/8th? Something along those lines.

Thanks for the heads up, going to have some brass 8mm/10mm nipple adapters ready for the mixed size hoses.

Otherwise, I bit the bullet and ordered OEM hoses, not all of which are available, so there will be some hose rigging.

Will report back on sizing for my CA 2002.

Many thanks negusm for this post, VERY helpful and good advice!

Just finished tank drop fuel delivery / charcoal canister replacement.

There were no codes on my truck, but at 22 years old, I am replacing items like these.

Totally agree with the points negusm makes with the parts lists if you can afford it, especially with the charcoal canister, that thing would be a can of worms to replace hoses etc.

All lines were just cut in this case to ease removal.

I opted to replace the Fuel Filler Hose 77213-35360, and the fuel filter.

Reused the existing Fuel Pump Cushion 23249-74610.

Using the fuel pump to drain the tank helped make it more manageable.

Alligator clips to the two terminals and a battery, +/- shown activates the pump, and with the flexible fuel line disconnected it can be directed into a container.

While the tank was out I cleaned the inside of the tank and painted the skid plate / tank exterior.

Cleaning the tank interior was essential for me since the gaskets crumbled during removal. It was pretty clean and no rust. Used KBS Coatings 2400 KBS Klean for cleaning, then lots of rinsing and air dry overnight.

The tank has some type of outer coating, maybe an epoxy based undercoating, it was more chemical resistant than the wheel well coating. Wire wheel --> Maroon scotch brite --> degrease --> Eastwood rust encapsulator on rusted areas --> Raptor tough undercoating. (the Raptor is a good coating, but the nozzle kept clogging, beware)

Lastly, as negsmn states, all lines needed are a combo of 6 mm and 8 mm. The / any 10 mm lines come with the charcoal canister assembly.

Check out the hose sizes and approx lengths with part numbers in the attached drawings. A few hoses were discontinued, but were easy enough to size with off the shelf fuel line.

I used vac grease only on vac lines, and a little oil on any lines that carry fuel.

Off to smog soon, and these systems should be good for another 20 years if I am lucky.

Appreciate y'all!

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Glad this has helped people.

Still no codes!

I've driven her 290k miles and counting (minus a couple of dozen miles from when she was new at the dealership before I bought her). Everything still works! Legendary vehicles.