Quote:
Originally Posted by Poorboy64
Thanks for the help,
So the lower rears are a little more difficult then the front upper and lower bushings? Removed them with a Harbor Freight C-clamp ball joint press along with the upper ball joint, those were the toughest yet!
Just thinking with my rear tires still on the ground (only 2 jack stands) I wouldn’t be able to manipulate the axle if need be.
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If I'm not mistaken the UCA/LCA bushings are a similar style; having a sleeve pressed in. If you have something that can fit it can absolutely be pressed out, though I'm not sure if a C clamp will be big enough. A hydraulic press would obviously work though and a press sleeve kit from your local hardware store will probably help greatly - if you have a press, that is. But to answer your question no, they're much easier since you don't have to deal with that wishbone shape
In regards to your jack stand dilemma, I think you might be left with buying a couple more jacks. I initially tried doing the job without them, thinking that would actually help keep things more in place, but all it did was prevent the axle from moving when I needed it to - the drag of the tires was too much. Using just a floor jack
might suffice for the job but I have a feeling it won't want to support the axle evenly given the shape of the rear diff. It might be possible to just keep one tire on at a time this way, but idk if it would be any easier.
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Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker