01-02-2021, 09:44 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
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Real Name: 3 Bears
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Senior Member
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Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
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for those thinking of LBJ's soon, 2 people today posted pictures of LBJ's failing TODAY. Both aftermarket. ON the facebook 3rd gen mafia page. 1 set was detroit axle brand, other person did not say who made his/hers.
Yes OEM are not cheap. Neither is the damage resulting of having any fail regardless if OEM or aftermarket. Ill use OEM in this application.
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
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01-02-2021, 10:08 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: KY
Posts: 11
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Junior Member
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Location: KY
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I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.
Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?
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01-02-2021, 10:27 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Santa Monica, CA
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Real Name: Keith
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.
Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?
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Conventional wisdom: If you are lifted, yes. If you drive a significant amount on washboard roads and other high-wear 4WD road conditions, yes.
If just normal streets and highways, no.
I put new OEM LBJs in at 120K miles, when I acquired the 4Runner. At that point it had been driven 120K miles unlifted on normal streets, so the original LBJs probably would have lasted another 100K miles. Now the 4Runner is lifted and it's done a couple thousand miles of rough roads. I'm now at 178K. I'll do them again by 200K miles.
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97 4R SR5, 4WD/Elock, 3.4, 5spd. OME881/890 springs/OME shocks, 265/70/16 BFG AT/KO2.
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01-03-2021, 01:58 AM
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#19
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Ohio
Posts: 507
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.
Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?
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I wouldn't change then unless the steering on the 4Runner isn't floppy and if there isn't much play on the ball joint. They still got a lot of life left. I would change them at 190k again with original Toyota parts.
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01-03-2021, 11:30 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.
Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?
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Congrats on the low milage find, harder n harder to come by.
90k mi on LBJ's I'd start by doing the FSM inspection to determine the condition of what you have.
I do FSM inspection every tire rotation, its easy once you get the hang of it.
Going on milage alone 100k mi I'm changing them, got my money's worth.
I've seen LBJ separation on net, sunk in when I saw it first hand in Lowes parking lot,
Father n young son 2 blocks from I-55 & 70 mph.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 01-03-2021 at 11:44 AM.
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01-03-2021, 12:26 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
Posts: 1,317
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Yukon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I just picked up an 02 with 147k miles. The LBJ were replaced by Toyota about 90k miles ago under recall, in 2005. The truck is impeccably maintained.
Should I just do them again or give them a bit of time?
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How well do you sleep at night? I’d just do it now and sleep easy for the next 10 years. Why put off the inevitable ?
As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method. It’s only once they are off the truck that it becomes obvious unless they are truly grossly worn out.
Just do it. Don’t become one of those photos.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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01-03-2021, 04:14 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
Why put off the inevitable ?
As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method....
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That a good thing if you can't spot it, means your in spec, lol.
Spec is .5mm (0.020") max, Magnetic base flex post dial indicator needed.
Your absolutely right @90k mi replacement good for 100k mi no worries.
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01-04-2021, 12:55 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 2,059
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: DFW, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
How well do you sleep at night? I’d just do it now and sleep easy for the next 10 years. Why put off the inevitable ?
As for the testing, I’m betting that 99% of us could not spot a bad ball joint using the fsm Method. It’s only once they are off the truck that it becomes obvious unless they are truly grossly worn out.
Just do it. Don’t become one of those photos.
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The ball joint on the right is an AC Delco 555 branded ball joint. Note the differences in the bolt mating surfaces. This ball joint had 40k miles and the only off-road action it saw was about 100 miles of beach driving and NEVER in the water. This ball joint was LOOOSEY GOOSEY. I could move it around with light pressure from my pinky.....
The ball joint on the left is a Toyota Genuine Balljoint. Stark differences. I was too stupid to know better when I first got this rig.
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Last edited by shadow247; 01-04-2021 at 12:58 AM.
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01-04-2021, 11:20 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: KY
Posts: 11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: KY
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I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?
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01-04-2021, 01:24 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?
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They're a wear item that has the potential to cause catastrophic damage when they fail. So far no one has found a lower ball joint that bolts in that lasts longer than OEM.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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01-04-2021, 01:24 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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@ MLHooker47
, Irony - Wife - X wife - Wife, it everwhere Ha.
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01-04-2021, 01:41 PM
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#27
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,323
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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LBJ replacement interval?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLHooker47
I'm just a newbie, but isn't it ironic that we replace OEM/factory installed LBJs with OEM ones because they fail. But also the aftermarket ones fail?
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My lower balljoints are greaseable. I grease them every oil change.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 01-04-2021 at 02:33 PM.
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01-04-2021, 02:59 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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I've always questioned the move away from greasable BJ's, time has proven not a bad thing I guess.
Not gona gripe about 100k service life, price tag, lil dirt from job.
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01-04-2021, 05:17 PM
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#29
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
I've always questioned the move away from greasable BJ's, time has proven not a bad thing I guess.
Not gona gripe about 100k service life, price tag, lil dirt from job.
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I always look for greaseable ball joints and swaybar links.
To me the lower ball joint failure is from rust seizing the ball and it breaking the stem from the ball.
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01-05-2021, 12:02 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: MS
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Real Name: Mark
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
I always look for greaseable ball joints and swaybar links.
To me the lower ball joint failure is from rust seizing the ball and it breaking the stem from the ball...
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I've changed my philosophy on greasing BJ's, 100k+ service life it ain't broke know what I mean, I don't trust A/M. All for Links.
Rust being issue could see that, thread's on the subject show stud broke, ball base separation, my area ball n base all the time most before Ah Shiite. Lol.
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