[TroyD]

So all signs point to an alternator. Everything I have previously done and delt with would make me think its an alternator; however, before I go spend $150 on a new one. I need some opinions.

1998 4x4 V6 Auto
Background:
About a week before the problem started, I replaced:
-brake rotors
-brake pads
-PCV valve
-new NGK plugs
-new NGK wires
-throttlebody cleaner

Here's what is going on now:
-ABS light comes on and sometimes goes out
-Battery light comes on, goes off, blinks, stays on, etc etc
-Airbag light blinks randomly and only sometimes
-Wipers will suddenly speed up and the slow back to normal (speed)
-Radio (aftermarket) randomly turns off for a few seconds and then turns right back on

Again, to me it appears to be getting strange voltage surges and lapses. leading me to think alternator.

I went to Advance Auto, have them check everything and the battery check out 100%, the alternator checked out 100% and the graph was spot on.

Could it be that the alternator is beginning to fail and may be testing good and then having issues after? Opinions please I have a 400 mile trip to make in two days and don't want to get stranded.

Thanks,
Troy

[TroyD]

Forgot to mention that the truck has 118,000 miles

[Singtoe]

Sounds like a bad ground to me. Check all your grounds and your battery terminals for corrosion and looseness.

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by TroyD

So all signs point to an alternator. Everything I have previously done and delt with would make me think its an alternator; however, before I go spend $150 on a new one. I need some opinions.

1998 4x4 V6 Auto
Background:
About a week before the problem started, I replaced:
-brake rotors
-brake pads
-PCV valve
-new NGK plugs
-new NGK wires
-throttlebody cleaner

Here's what is going on now:
-ABS light comes on and sometimes goes out
-Battery light comes on, goes off, blinks, stays on, etc etc
-Airbag light blinks randomly and only sometimes
-Wipers will suddenly speed up and the slow back to normal (speed)
-Radio (aftermarket) randomly turns off for a few seconds and then turns right back on

Again, to me it appears to be getting strange voltage surges and lapses. leading me to think alternator.
I went to Advance Auto, have them check everything and the battery check out 100%, the alternator checked out 100% and the graph was spot on.

Could it be that the alternator is beginning to fail and may be testing good and then having issues after? Opinions please I have a 400 mile trip to make in two days and don't want to get stranded.

Thanks,
Troy

Troy,

You aren't giving us anything to work with. Everything you've done? Like what?
Voltage surges and lapses? Did you check with a voltmeter?
100% of what? You don't have time for all the questions I should be asking, or to break this down one symptom at a time. I will say that Singtoe is most likely on track with the ground issues. If it were me, that's where I'd be looking to start. But if you are concerned about your impending trip, have a PRO look at it, not an auto parts store.

[TroyD]

Originally Posted by IBallEngineer

Troy,

You aren't giving us anything to work with. Everything you've done? Like what?
Voltage surges and lapses? Did you check with a voltmeter?
100% of what? You don't have time for all the questions I should be asking, or to break this down one symptom at a time. I will say that Singtoe is most likely on track with the ground issues. If it were me, that's where I'd be looking to start. But if you are concerned about your impending trip, have a PRO look at it, not an auto parts store.

The battery measured:
12.98 volts
708 CCA
at 69 degrees

Starter = 11.4 volts

Charging system:
no load = 14.23 volts
loaded = 14.16 volts
ripple 25m volts

I have checked the battery terminals. Pulled them cleaned them (even though no signs of corrosion) then re installed them and made sure everything was tight. No change to the problems seen.

I looked for obvious signs in the engine compartment of loose items, i.e., fuses, connectors, etc. I went back to anything I could have inadvertently hit or dislodged when doing the plugs. Nothing there either. I also did a visual inspection of the brakes and ABS sensors (since that light is illuminated 95% of the time). Visually, everything was in place and connections were tight.

I went to Advance because I was trying to avoid $100 + charge at a shop. I will but was just trying to avoid that with opinions from here.

Thanks for the responses
Troy

[chimpy]

X2 on a bad/weak ground

[TheDurk]

Since you did plugs, I'm betting on the engine ground by the diagnostic plug. Frequently causes these types of symptoms.

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by TheDurk

Since you did plugs, I'm betting on the engine ground by the diagnostic plug. Frequently causes these types of symptoms.

Back when LA had two pro football teams, I worked in an auto electric repair shop. People would bring us their cars when they had already tried everything else. So we'd see a Ford Pinto(yes really) with a new batt/alt/starter/solenoid and brand spanking new battery cables. And the negative cable would be "loosely" attached to the exhaust manifold. True story!

[TroyD]

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I went through the engine bay grounds (firewall to block / intake behind diagnostic port / driver's fender at the battery) and detached, cleaned, and reattached them. Still having the same problems.

Anyone else have any ideas before I take it to a shop?

Thanks again

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by TroyD

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I went through the engine bay grounds (firewall to block / intake behind diagnostic port / driver's fender at the battery) and detached, cleaned, and reattached them. Still having the same problems.

Anyone else have any ideas before I take it to a shop?

Thanks again

Well I would like to see you verify the main ground cable from the battery to the engine is not loose. Then also the power connection to the engine bay fuse block. Lastly I recommend you take a very close look at the two fuses that provide power to the ignition switch. They are a 30 and 40 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse block positioned below two 50 amp fuses. Pull them out, clean the blades. I have no idea what is causing this problem, but I get the feeling you are dropping a connection to the instrument panel. Could be your ignition switch too, but without being there to "catch" it happening. Very difficult to trouble shoot.

[TroyD]

Found the problem and thought I’d post it in case anyone else has this problem and searches later.

IBallEngineer- Thank you for all your help. One word you said was a trigger for my brain. You mentioned the ignition switch and remembered having a hard time unlocking/turning the key. I knew my keys were worn so I called Toyota and had then cut 2 new keys based on my VIN #. Worked like a champ. Apparently my old worn keys were making the ignition rattle and turn lights on and off. Simply putting a new key in the ignition I have not had a single light or problem in 5 days.

Problem solved and big thanks again to IBallEngineer and everyone else for the help!

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by TroyD

Found the problem and thought I’d post it in case anyone else has this problem and searches later.

IBallEngineer- Thank you for all your help. One word you said was a trigger for my brain. You mentioned the ignition switch and remembered having a hard time unlocking/turning the key. I knew my keys were worn so I called Toyota and had then cut 2 new keys based on my VIN #. Worked like a champ. Apparently my old worn keys were making the ignition rattle and turn lights on and off. Simply putting a new key in the ignition I have not had a single light or problem in 5 days.

Problem solved and big thanks again to IBallEngineer and everyone else for the help!

Even a blind dog finds a bone every once in a while.

[Zplis]

similar problem