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Old 01-01-2021, 04:22 PM #1
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worn ignition swich/battery drain

got a 99 4runner, dont know if these 2 issues are related so thought I would ask everyone. for starters I have been chasing a battery drain issue and have been checking all the usual places that various members have suggested, this week by accident I found out that I can remove my ignition key no matter what position it is in, engine will stay running with key pulled straight out, I also noticed the ignition switch light that surrounds where the key goes in is staying on at all times. I unplugged that because I could care less if it works or not. anyway any one have an issue like this??? I'm not sure if I should replace the tumbler, or the entire switch assembly. I'm wondering if this sloppy switch could cause connection problems (vehicle has 300K on the odometer) any thoughts or experience with something like this
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Old 01-01-2021, 04:36 PM #2
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I seen worn out tumblers let you put the key out. You can look ar the ignition contacts on the back of they key. I lost my start contacts in that ignition contacts about 2 or 3 years ago. If they are worn level. Then the contacts are warn out. I thought the start itself was going bad. So it can full you. My rig probably had 250k on it when the key contacts went. So it's quite possible your contacts are going bad. Visual inspection on them is probably the best way or with a meter to make sure it's working properly.

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Old 01-01-2021, 10:45 PM #3
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there is a thread someplace on this forum about how to rebuild the cylinder thus allowing you to keep the same key for ignition and doors.
so if rebuilding cylinder with new pins and springs, I would also get a new key at dealer. They can cut them off your vin....or so Ive been told.

I think a locksmith would also be able to rebuild the cylinder if you took it out and brought to them.
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Old 01-01-2021, 11:46 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnie View Post
got a 99 4runner, dont know if these 2 issues are related so thought I would ask everyone. for starters I have been chasing a battery drain issue and have been checking all the usual places that various members have suggested, this week by accident I found out that I can remove my ignition key no matter what position it is in, engine will stay running with key pulled straight out, I also noticed the ignition switch light that surrounds where the key goes in is staying on at all times. I unplugged that because I could care less if it works or not. anyway any one have an issue like this??? I'm not sure if I should replace the tumbler, or the entire switch assembly. I'm wondering if this sloppy switch could cause connection problems (vehicle has 300K on the odometer) any thoughts or experience with something like this
I just went thru this...

each truck is a bit different... the truck I purchased (1998) last year had unique ignition key, drivers door used a different key, passenger door unknown key and back door also non functional key unknown, and glove box used drivers entry door key as well.

so it depends on what you want to do about it.

I decided to re-key the entire truck and make them match. it's was a project but I'm glad I did it now and everything matches.

you can get a new ignition cylinder for 54.93$ + shipping with 2 new keys and include key codes. for me this was a no brainer... hard to beat this deal.



for ref this is for my 1998, you will want to run your VIN and find out if it's the same... 99 was the year they introduced the engine immobilizer on limited... and other models... maybe somebody can chime in who has dealt with this?

now the next part could be up to you... you can get the drivers door, passenger door and glove box out of their spots easy lemon squeezy. I think even timmy the toolmand did a vid on how it's done... not hard at all.



the back hatch is a total pain in the, well back end. yea it made me want to end my life and poke out my eyes.... so make sure your all the way in if you decide to do it....

you can also get the key wafers for about $60 and do them all yourself. I did the ignition cylinder to start. you can replace an ignition cylinder in these truck in like 10 mins once you know how to do it. tons of vids out on youtube showing how it's done.

once you have a new ignition cylinder it's just a matter of how much further you want to go? or have an extra key that still works for all the other locks? and if you made it this far the tip is... the passenger door lock cylider has the keycode for the entire truck, if it has not been messed with yet. and you can swap the passenger side and drivers side if you want? because usually the passenger side is still like brand new.

I even decided to put in a cheap keyless entry system from amazon... works perfect so far and it's like it came from the factory with keyless.

Last edited by sleepydad; 01-01-2021 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 01-02-2021, 12:10 PM #5
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same issue following thanks for the post
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Old 01-02-2021, 01:10 PM #6
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I had a new key made with the key code and flushed the lock with brake cleaner and then re lubed it.


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Old 01-04-2021, 12:27 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
you can also get the key wafers for about $60 and do them all yourself. I did the ignition cylinder to start. you can replace an ignition cylinder in these truck in like 10 mins once you know how to do it. tons of vids out on youtube showing how it's done.
Where did you get the toyota key wafers from?
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Old 01-04-2021, 09:40 PM #8
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Where did you get the toyota key wafers from?
Toyota TR47 Pinning Kit (A-30-108)
– CLK SUPPLIES, LLC



just to be 100% clear. I purchased a new ignition cylinder. Then I did all the other cylinders in the truck to match it. if your going to re-do your own ignition cylinder you will have to drill a hole in it. not a huge deal and it's not hard to do it and I had 2x old ones I had saved so I could mess with it... vids on youtube show how it's done.

having a new ignition cylinder and fresh cut key is so... smooth like butter...

also keep in mind... have a couple of sets of cylinders for each one... my back one was broken on the inside and the little spring door would not function correctly after disassembly. a spare saved the day for me and I ended up swapping bodies with it.

it's very tedious stuff. but worth it in the end.

Last edited by sleepydad; 01-04-2021 at 09:46 PM.
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