I bet a lot don’t think of the brake fluid and PS fluid.


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Sure thing then. I currently use AMSOIL's Signature that has a 10K mile or 1 year change interval for my engine (15K for those that are not boosted). I normally only drive 5-6K miles per year so I change it every winter and that's that. My engine sees a lot of heat and abuse due to it being supercharged so I prefer something that protects against engine wear. Plus with the discounts it offers it works out to be about $50 for motor oil and filters for the entire year.

For transmission fluid, I switched from dino oil to synthetic a few years back and noticed much better shifts. I recommend synthetic, brand doesn't matter much.

Bought 96Red 74k mi, replacement 01 198k to establish base line hell of a lot more needs doing higher the mileage questionable maintenance. I tend to OCD on stuff I intend to keep, 96Red 374k+ mi 18 yr.

Wait, are our rigs coolant is suppose to be red? Mines green. I know the different colors indicate different chimicals used. I got the rig with green coolant in it so I figured that was the type for the rig.

I use royal purple high millage 5-30 with OEM filter. Change it every 5k even though you can go double that if you wanted. But 5k is plenty long enough imo.

I have heard amsoil is more superior than royal purple. Like others have said go with whatever brand you want though its your rig your choice.

I also throw in some EPR Engine Performance Restoration every couple of oil changes.

My two cents.

@LS-4Runner , what your Trans fluid look like change history ? Your changing Radiator might think about a fluid exchange with some mileage, drain n fill when swapping Rad's get the most junk out before new Rad goes in.

Dino vs Syn Oil, Lol, been using Dino oil over 50 yrs guessing couple million miles never missed a beat.
11 Audi had Motul Syn from factory stuck with it.

Most people who aren't very "car guy" knowledgeable will just put Prestone green coolant and not care. Green coolant isn't bad although it would be better to have the red stuff in there. I suggest you flush out everything with distilled water if you want to change it to Toyota red. Cross contaminating fluids is never good.

They are both actually on the list as well

I don't have the history maintenance of the truck, this is why I'm starting whit replacing all oils and liquids for good base line.

Not sure I understand the difference between the green and red coolant, can someone please explain the major differences between the two?

There's a few threads and data about this but you'll just have to change the green more often. Our Toyotas have aluminum radiators and most greens don't have the same anti-corrosion properties needed that the Toyota red and pinks do. These 4Runners came with red initially but then Toyota developed their Pink LL (long life) fluid which supersedes red and lasts twice as long. Also won't corrode the radiators over time.

Royal Purple is a very good oil too. There's been a lot of lab tests on bearing wear and with AMSOIL absent (they rarely let anyone test it but themselves...) Royal Purple outperforms every other oil. Instead of cutting into the bearing, the Royal Purple oils create a sort of "smoothing" effect that actually polishes the bearing. No link though since it was in a magazine I read. I ran it a few times in my engine, didn't notice a difference of course since it's just oil but hoping the smoothing effect happened. I use their Max ATF synthetic in my transmission though, it works amazing. Cleaned up my 1-2 shift so it's crisper with less jerk. I modified my valve body to shift faster so it was so harsh it would make the whole dash shake before.

Hey thanks for the great info man. Just order the pink stuff. Couldn't find the concentrated version but whatever.

How exactly did you mod your valve body to shift faster?

OEM coolant is red.

My coolant experience 96Red used Green Yellow whatever, this before Red vs thing
374k+ mi no evidence I used wrong coolant.
My 01 I'm using Red, we'll see in couple hundred k mi.