Cost effectiveness of LCA vs bushings if having a shop install
So, I plan on taking my truck in for LBJ's and I know the LCA bushings need to be replaced as well so I figured I'd have them done at the same time. I was looking at the price of the bushings alone vs an LCA that comes with new bushings already installed and the difference is ~$125 per side. I was wondering how much labor that saves at the shop? My thought was that if it cost ~$50 per side or so to have them press out the old bushings and press in the new ones, that makes the difference per side $75 to replace my 20+-year-old LCA with a brand new one, which seems like a solid investment for keeping the truck long term. Thoughts?
The mechanic at the alignment shop told me to get them with bushings assembled. I just saw this on Amazon. Note the wheel bearing hubs - when you get your wheel bearing failure.
I would not do wheel bearings until you have one go bad. It took a good mechanic two hours of hammering to replace just the bearing.
Not all LCA's & bushings are created equal, I did what your speaking of went aftermarket big mistake.
Had less than 10k mi, bushings worn enough to mess with alignment, the aftermarket arm was made of thinner material.
I'd stick with OE Arms, OE bushings or whiteline.
If a shop is doing the work I would supply them with a complete OE LCA. And before you take it in, mark and loosen up your LCA adjusters making sure the Cam sleeves all move freely incase you need to order a few to complete the work and have it aligned. This entire job can be done at home, and you could reuse the LCA and put whiteline or OE bushings in, change out LBJ's and clean up the adjusters and go for an alignment and probably save 1000 or more in labour depending on the shop and the condition of the adjusters and LCA ofcourse. If you do it yourself you will have time to clean up and paint the original LCA which most shops won't do unless you requested it adding to the cost. Or pick up used OE LCA's and install bushings of your preference and send them to the shop. I would be asking for a quote from the shop for either route to help make a decision.
Thankfully I kept my old LCA's.
If your Cam bolts are stuck, Diablo Blades and sawzall work wonders.
Aftermarket arms I tried bushings could not be changed, made in China.
Last edited by 96RedRunner; 01-08-2021 at 01:44 PM.
Watch the Timmy the toolman video, you can even use your Oem bottle jack to push out the old bushings lol.. doesn’t get much easier than that. I do recommend wrapping a ratchet strap around the lca when you use the bottle jack though so it doesn’t bend. I bent mine a tiny bit and I ended up using my floor jack against my work bench to unbend it..
The hardest part of doing the bushings is when things are seized up with rust, if your vehicle isn’t very rusty it will be much easier. I wouldn’t use a bushing that isn’t either oem or poly like white line or energy suspension, aftermarket rubber bushings are junk
Living in the rust belt, although my vehicle has little to no rust, I measured the distance between the lower control arm ends, soaked the ends in acetone and ATF, heated it up with oxy/map gas, and then I striped the OEM bottle jack, realizing there was no way they would come out I changed my attack, I then proceeded press the rubber out and VERY carefully cut the bushing sleeve at the strongest part of the the LCA, tapped the sleeve out and pressed the new bushings in.
Living in the rust belt, although my vehicle has little to no rust, I measured the distance between the lower control arm ends, soaked the ends in acetone and ATF, heated it up with oxy/map gas, and then I striped the OEM bottle jack, realizing there was no way they would come out I changed my attack, I then proceeded press the rubber out and VERY carefully cut the bushing sleeve at the strongest part of the the LCA, tapped the sleeve out and pressed the new bushings in.
This method is pretty much what I did, only difference is mine were rustier so I burned out the bushing, cut the sleeve, then used a chisel on the edge of the sleeve, rolling it over until it came out.
As mentioned, LCAs and Balljoints are not something to mess with here and most aftermarkets are junk. It will cost you to have them replaced properly but it is better than getting into an accident. Look on the forum for examples of aftermarket ball joints failing. Take a look at the video below to show bad aftermarket bushings at 22k miles. The toe change under braking is pretty scary...
I absolutely plan on buying an OE LCA so that I don't have to worry about the aftermarket garbage. I'd love to do it myself but I'm living on 4 hrs of sleep nightly and a couple of hrs of personal time per week until I take my board exam in May and I don't want to put it off until then.
Overall, it sounds like it will be better to just buy everything assembled and have them just swap the new LCA's in instead of replacing the bushings.
I absolutely plan on buying an OE LCA so that I don't have to worry about the aftermarket garbage. I'd love to do it myself but I'm living on 4 hrs of sleep nightly and a couple of hrs of personal time per week until I take my board exam in May and I don't want to put it off until then.
Overall, it sounds like it will be better to just buy everything assembled and have them just swap the new LCA's in instead of replacing the bushings.
I tried doing it myself and broke my pipe I use as a cheater bar and then broke my breaker bar My impact wouldn’t budge the LCA bolts. I was happy to have someone deal with the rust.
Just buy a new LCA. Especially if your 4Runner has come from the rust belt, then it is just a massive waste of time to save $75. You'll lose than money in additional labor to press out the old garbage.