I've been running this setup for several months and really enjoying the ride.

There was a few weeks where I thought the ride was too firm - but then I replaced the hard plastic polyurethane Rear endlink bushings with rubber ones and it made a huge difference to the ride comfort.

*Also, I'm running MStud's endlinks in the front and 2nd Gen Rears on the rear.

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What's the rake like after it settled? Did you max out the front coilovers to 3 inches? I recently put mstuds link all around but I believe the bracket bushings are polyurethane ones from energy suspension.

That's awesome that you are the original owner of your 4runner man.

I wanted to be slightly higher in the rear so the fronts are not maxed out (see attached)

I've been meaning to take measurements I'll try to get some tomorrow.

I'm still running polyurethane up front - but changing the rear endlink bushings to rubber was a huge improvement in comfort.

And thanks - when the color matched bumpers became a thing - I pulled the trigger.

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Ya'll's rigs are looking good! I have had Toytec Ultimate coilovers before with their 550lb springs and I thought the ride was perfect. When I installed my life I had a lot of driveline vibration around 60 as well as the all so popular issues with my CV boots busting. Are ya'll having any of these issues or any issues, for that matter? I'd really like to put this setup on my current 4Runner but don't want to push myself into unnecessary issues. Its pretty solid right now.

Thanks.

Did you put in a diff drop kit and get an alignment after installing your lift?

Those are common issues with any 2.5-3” lift. Both my stock CV boots leaked grease and eventually busted the boots after I put my first lift on (close to 15 years ago now). But that’s just what happens to CVs when you change their angles after sitting at stock height for so long (especially the original CVs). I’ve broken a handful of CV axels on the trails over the years, and I’ve never had a new CV leak. They get used to the steeper angles right off the bat, unlike stock CVs.

I have had to replace a couple u-joints over the years too, but that’s to be expected with a 200K mi. truck. The lift probably didn’t help things, but like the CVs, I never had that issue again once I put in the new u-jpoints. And like Dom8706 said, a diff drop will help the stress on your CVs and definitely an alignment is necessary after a lift.

Center Hub to Fender Flare measurements:
LF 22.75" ¦ RF 23.00"
LR 23.50" ¦ RR 23.50"

Nice that's pretty much perfect imo.

Thanks man, and yes I did install one. I guess that's what I found as well, once I put new CVs in they didnt bust again. My stock ones are currently not busted but if I do go for this setup again I will just replace them while I'm in there.

How low would you all say you can crank them down without rubbing on 285s?

Its hard to get the height just right being everytime you make a change technically you need another alignment.

I didn't rub on mine at all before but I put the coilovers on and left them where they had them adjusted and I think they were pretty maxed out on height.

I wouldn’t replace the CVs while you’re in there. Besides removing the tire, there really isn’t anything else in common with the coilover install and a CV install. I’d just see how it goes. You could also put some better clamps on the boots with the CVs in place IF they start to leak after the new coilovers.

Lift really has nothing to do with rubbing, because when the tire is stuffed, it’s in the same spot lift or no lift. The lift just makes the tire father away from being stuffed at rest, so it won’t rub as easy on road as no lift. I would install the coilovers with the factory setting and adjust them on the truck as necessary if you want it higher or to level it out. Minor adjustments don’t require a realignment IMO. When you have a passenger or put in/take out anything big in the truck, it changes the ride height a little bit (but it’s not like you realign everytime you have a person in the car or haul something big). After cranking the collar 1 full turn down to lower the passenger side, and one full turn up to raise the driver side, my Alumas sit exactly 1/8” higher than my old 883s. I didn’t even bother with an alignment and it drives perfectly straight. I’ll just keep and eye on my tread wear over the next 5000 or so mi. and make sure there isn’t any uneven wear.

The Alumas aren’t set at max from the factory. Max is 1.06” (IIRC) of thread, and I think mine were set at about 5/8” (pass) and 3/4” (driver). You can crank the collars up a few times from factory before reaching max. One full crank of the collar up/down = roughly about 1/8” more/less lift on mine.

Hey, wanted to see how you’re liking these Alumas after some time. I just ordered a set with a 600# coil (no weight up front, but I’d like to get a bumper soon) and am a bit apprehensive to install since I’ve heard some mixed reviews.

How is the ride / quality?

I love the ride and the height. But I'm also 95% on road.
I also got rid of all the Energy Suspension Swaybar Endlink Bushings I had on there and went back to stock.
Took the 4Runner camping last month loaded with gear and it ran great.

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buyer beware on these Aluma Coilovers. Had these for 3 years with almost no off roading besides some fire roads and started getting a lot of bad squeaking for few months followed by clunking. I took a closer look and looks like the shaft sheared off and shock is bending (Which was causing the rubbing/squeaking). Not good. I have a call into Toytec to see what they say..

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