Long Crank Time - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

gruenegenes · 01-30-2021, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixxor

This was the cause for my long crank.

Any tips on diagnosing the leaking injector?

fixxor · 01-30-2021, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gruenegenes

Any tips on diagnosing the leaking injector?

The only way for me was to OHM the injector, one of them was lower than the rest so I could only assume that was the problem one. I had replaced the fuel pump before trying to solve the issue, among checking for vacuum leaks, etc. I ended up just buying injectors off ebay and sending them off to Witchunter. I was having issues getting it smogged too because of it.

spartacus · 01-31-2021, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gruenegenes

That’s an interesting point. Here’s a pic of one of the plugs I changed last month. Does this look like a sign of an injector leak?

It'seems to be. Check injectors to' see if they are with in spec specially number one cylinder.
If you can just take em' all out and send them to

Injector specialist Home

Call them,he always'answer the phone and is a great guy.

spartacus · 01-31-2021, 02:58 AM

The injectors resistance should be between 13 and 18 ohms .

gruenegenes · 01-31-2021, 09:22 AM

I appreciate you guys. I’ll get to work on the injectors

19963.4lsr5 · 01-31-2021, 11:17 AM

Try a double dose of Techron, Gummout or amsoil for a few tanks.

The problem with only having one fuel bank is as one or two etc injectors change their flow the pcm makes them all richer or leaner to make up for it.

I cleaned and rebuilt my injectors myself.

You could easily simulate an empty fuel rail from leaking injectors by pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine stall. Then see how long it cranks to restart.

However, the above should be done both hot and cold. The amount of extra fuel required to start a cold engine is way more than a hot engine.

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gruenegenes · 01-31-2021, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5

Try a double dose of Techron, Gummout or amsoil for a few tanks.

The problem with only having one fuel bank is as one or two etc injectors change their flow the pcm makes them all richer or leaner to make up for it.

I cleaned and rebuilt my injectors myself.

You could easily simulate an empty fuel rail from leaking injectors by pulling the fuel pump fuse and letting the engine stall. Then see how long it cranks to restart.

However, the above should be done both hot and cold. The amount of extra fuel required to start a cold engine is way more than a hot engine.

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Is the injector rebuild pretty straightforward?

19963.4lsr5 · 01-31-2021, 03:34 PM

You need to make a few things. My Build and Repair thread covers it.

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4skeeter · 01-31-2021, 09:26 PM

If you really want to, you can change the starter. I had a really long crank time and i did all the same replacements you did. Plugs, wires, battery. Ended up it didn’t fix it and it eventually had a lot of issues starting in general. Changed the starter out and that fixed it.

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Bad Luck · 02-01-2021, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zingvs

Try turning it to the "on" position before starting it. This gives the fuel pump a longer chance to engage before attempting to start.

The fuel pump only starts pumping once you turn the key to the start position. It doesn't have a prime with key on like most domestic vehicles.

Zingvs · 02-01-2021, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

The fuel pump only starts pumping once you turn the key to the start position. It doesn't have a prime with key on like most domestic vehicles.

Damn somehow I never realized that on these trucks. Good to know.

gruenegenes · 02-24-2021, 08:15 PM

A couple of updates.
- fuel mileage is 10 mpg. Clearly a problem.
- I’m going to the junkyard this week to get a set of fuel injectors I can send off to get rebuilt. That’ll keep me from having my vehicle off the road while I’m waiting for the injectors. The junkyard doesn’t have my model year, 2002. The closest 3rd Gen they have is 2000. Injector part numbers are the same for 2000 and 2002 so I’m assuming they’ll work.
- I’m going to replace the fuel pressure regulator when I replace the injectors.

Anything else I should do if I’m going to have it taken apart? Any tips or warnings about this work?

LittleCaesar · 02-24-2021, 09:46 PM

The money light ever been on?

Fuel pump OEM?

Is the long crank time have any relevance to outside temp or engine temp?

Any access to an OBD II reader?

spartacus · 02-24-2021, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gruenegenes

A couple of updates.
- fuel mileage is 10 mpg. Clearly a problem.
- I’m going to the junkyard this week to get a set of fuel injectors I can send off to get rebuilt. That’ll keep me from having my vehicle off the road while I’m waiting for the injectors. The junkyard doesn’t have my model year, 2002. The closest 3rd Gen they have is 2000. Injector part numbers are the same for 2000 and 2002 so I’m assuming they’ll work.
- I’m going to replace the fuel pressure regulator when I replace the injectors.

Anything else I should do if I’m going to have it taken apart? Any tips or warnings about this work?

3.4l injectors are all the same.
fuel rail crush washers 90430-12026
Vaseline for ô rings
intake plenum gaskets 17176-62040 x2
edit: you need 6 washers.

gruenegenes · 02-24-2021, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LittleCaesar

The money light ever been on?

Fuel pump OEM?

Is the long crank time have any relevance to outside temp or engine temp?

Any access to an OBD II reader?

Fuel pump is OEM.

Light was on but replacing O2 and AF sensors resolved it.

Crank time seems random and independent of temp.

I don’t have an OBD II, but have been wanting one. I’ve been considering an app for my iPhone along with whatever connector is required. Do you think that’s a good idea?

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