Without having an IPhone I can’t say. Someone may chime in here but I would imagine the web will provide some answers. Having access to the data will hopefully provide some insight on the terrible MPGs as well as possibly the long crank time.

How are the condition of the battery terminals?

Not speaking from experience here but there have been hard starting instances from other members caused by a ECU fuse on the way out. Usually though it occurs only after the engine is fully warm.

I have an iPhone and I use Car Scanner Pro. It’s freemium:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2 on the App Store

The app has some really good features and you can customize dashboards. See the photo, that’s the dashboard I leave up every time I drive. Keep my phone up in a dash holder.

And I use this Bluetooth OBD2 unit:

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off: Automotive

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Not all the same injectors for 3.4L are the same. 96-98, 99-02, 03-04 were different injectors with different flow rates. I believe they all had the same connector though.

Wow! That’s awesome. I’ll check it out. Thanks

iIs there a different part number? As far as I know the Grey injectors up to 98 and the brown injectors after that are the same. infact the brown injectors are preferable.

I use Dash Command in my iPhone. With a Bluetooth OBD adaptor.


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23209-62030 96-98 4Runner 3.4L
23209-62040 99-02 4Runner, 99-04 Tacoma 3.4L

Is there a difference in flow rates so they are not interchangeable? I actually thought the Grey ones were for the 2nd gen 3.0 and continued till 1998.

edit: the op should go with the newer ones.

I’ve always heard that they are different flow rates, but they are definitely different spray patterns which may affect performance.

I’m no mechanic or even good at diagnosis but in my reading here starter contacts can be an issue and replaced on the cheap. Lots of threads on subject think Tim does a video also.

Update:

The problem has been getting worse and it’s still intermittent. Sometimes I’ll have to turn the key three times for it to start.

I had the injectors rebuilt by Fuel Injector Specialists (thank you Spartacus for the recommendation). I installed them today and replaced the fuel pressure regulator while I was at it. The crank time seemed to decrease until it warmed up. Then the long crank time returned and I had to turn the key twice for it to start a few times. Then a new problem started – it’s losing power while driving – pedal to the floor and no acceleration for about one to three seconds.

To relieve the fuel pressure before replacing the injectors today, I loosened the fittings to the fuel filter, but nothing happened. There was no pressure. So I think I’m dealing with intermittent fuel pressure loss.

Little Caesar, you had mentioned it could be an ECU fuse on the way out. Somebody else mentioned that to me. I'll try that tomorrow. If that's not it, I’m out of ideas. Any suggestions?

To recap, here’s what I’ve done
- Replaced fuel injectors with OEM rebuilt injectors
- Replaced fuel pressure regulator with OEM
- Checked and cleaned all grounds in the engine compartment and on battery
- Replaced plugs
- Replaced plug wires
- Replaced battery
- Replaced fuel filter
- Replaced air filter
- Replaced PCV valve
- Replaced fuel pump and pump screen with OEM
- Replaced front (AF) and rear O2 sensors
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned throttle body
- Disconnected battery to clear memory
- Ohm tested Throttle Control Motor, Throttle Position Sensor and Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor – all 3 passed (the 2002 doesn’t have an Idle Air Control Valve)
- No check engine light and no stored codes
- Ran through 2 cans of seafoam

I would like to believe that the ECU fuse is the culprit. At the age of these 4runners electrical gremlins can wreck havoc.

Given that there was no fuel at the filter I would then remove the back seat and access the connector through the floor. I believe the connector should have 12v KOEO at all times. Use your multimeter to verify that it does. Plug it back in and listen for the pump to turn on.

How long ago was the pump replaced? OEM parts rarely go bad but the other day I saw where some older Toyota OEM water pumps are new being made in the PRC so with that lax quality control there anything is possible.

Great idea, I’ll check the pump. I replaced it a month ago, but who knows.

One other thing - before I disconnected the lines to the fuel filter to relieve pressure (but there was no pressure), I opened the gas cap and when I did, a bunch of air whooshed in or out. Not sure which direction. I’m wondering if the tank isn’t venting properly - not letting air in - I suppose it’s possible the pump wouldn’t be able to operate if so. Anybody ever have issues with the fuel tank not venting?

You also have the drive by wire Throttle Body. There could be something going wrong with the stepper motor that opens the throttle plate.

Or fuel pump starting to fail.


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If your vent valve on the tank isn’t working properly then it should trip the money light and some PO 4xx code should pop up. Sometimes one can smell the valve leaking. If you had the right scan tool you could test it (bi directional one). But I don’t believe it would cause the hard cranks....

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D-HPp2-_PFM

Ever get a code reader app for the IPhone?