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Old 03-21-2021, 04:46 PM #46
gruenegenes gruenegenes is offline
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I got the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 with a Bluetooth connector, but I donít believe itís bi-directional. No codes found. Is there a bi-directional one youíd recommend?

I just replaced every fuse related to the ECU or fuel injection. I think it was around 7 in all. I asked my daughter to test drive it for about 30 minutes. Iím praying for a winner this time!
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:02 PM #47
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Good luck then. Keep us abreast.

As far as a bidirectional scanner goes, they start in the couple of hundred dollars and up. Not really fiscally prudent for a DIYer.
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Old 03-21-2021, 08:32 PM #48
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From what I've read the past few months is that its guaranteed the fuel pump. I have the same issue, but it still fires up. Eventually I'll change the pump out.
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Old 03-21-2021, 10:34 PM #49
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From tonightís test drive the power loss has gotten so bad itís not reliable to drive. Itís odd because it just started less than a week ago.

At any rate, Iím punting! Iím out of time so I dropped it off at the mechanic. I canít wait to find out what the heck is wrong with it.
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Old 03-22-2021, 06:55 AM #50
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That stinks. Let us know what the fix is.
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Old 03-24-2021, 06:51 AM #51
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My 4Runner takes 2 to 3 seconds
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Old 03-24-2021, 04:04 PM #52
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The mechanic has had the vehicle for three days and they can't get the problem to repeat.

This is a real head scratcher.

I'm wondering if this is a computer issue. Here's the sequence of events
- Slow start has been happening for some time
- I replace, clean and fix a whole bunch of things (see my list from previous posts) and the problem gets worse
- Friday of last week, it loses power for the first time while driving. It's once or twice and not for long.
- Saturday I replace the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator and the power loss is bad enough that I had to pick up my daughter (it's her 4Runner) and drive it home for her. It would lose power every 3 or 4 minutes for 1 to 4 seconds.
- Sunday I replaced all fuses related to fuel injection and ECU and the power loss was so bad that it would lose power two to three times a minute for 1 to 4 seconds. That's when I dropped it off with the mechanic.

When I disconnected the battery to replace the injectors and FPR (battery was disconnected for several hours) and again when I replaced the fuses (I pulled the fuses and took them with me to parts store so they were out for over 30 minutes) I'm assuming the computer's settings for fuel/air mixture and whatever else reset. And at the same time I replaced the injectors and FPR. I wonder if the combination of those things required the computer to relearn the proper A/F ratio and whatever else and as soon as the mechanic got it, it was dialed in.

I'll pick it up tonight and update if I learn anything new.
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Old 03-24-2021, 04:55 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruenegenes View Post
The mechanic has had the vehicle for three days and they can't get the problem to repeat.

This is a real head scratcher.

I'm wondering if this is a computer issue. Here's the sequence of events
- Slow start has been happening for some time
- I replace, clean and fix a whole bunch of things (see my list from previous posts) and the problem gets worse
- Friday of last week, it loses power for the first time while driving. It's once or twice and not for long.
- Saturday I replace the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator and the power loss is bad enough that I had to pick up my daughter (it's her 4Runner) and drive it home for her. It would lose power every 3 or 4 minutes for 1 to 4 seconds.
- Sunday I replaced all fuses related to fuel injection and ECU and the power loss was so bad that it would lose power two to three times a minute for 1 to 4 seconds. That's when I dropped it off with the mechanic.

When I disconnected the battery to replace the injectors and FPR (battery was disconnected for several hours) and again when I replaced the fuses (I pulled the fuses and took them with me to parts store so they were out for over 30 minutes) I'm assuming the computer's settings for fuel/air mixture and whatever else reset. And at the same time I replaced the injectors and FPR. I wonder if the combination of those things required the computer to relearn the proper A/F ratio and whatever else and as soon as the mechanic got it, it was dialed in.

I'll pick it up tonight and update if I learn anything new.

You did dump all the adaptiveís when you did that which did require a relearn.


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Old 03-24-2021, 10:05 PM #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruenegenes View Post
The mechanic has had the vehicle for three days and they can't get the problem to repeat.

This is a real head scratcher.

I'm wondering if this is a computer issue. Here's the sequence of events
- Slow start has been happening for some time
- I replace, clean and fix a whole bunch of things (see my list from previous posts) and the problem gets worse
- Friday of last week, it loses power for the first time while driving. It's once or twice and not for long.
- Saturday I replace the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator and the power loss is bad enough that I had to pick up my daughter (it's her 4Runner) and drive it home for her. It would lose power every 3 or 4 minutes for 1 to 4 seconds.
- Sunday I replaced all fuses related to fuel injection and ECU and the power loss was so bad that it would lose power two to three times a minute for 1 to 4 seconds. That's when I dropped it off with the mechanic.

When I disconnected the battery to replace the injectors and FPR (battery was disconnected for several hours) and again when I replaced the fuses (I pulled the fuses and took them with me to parts store so they were out for over 30 minutes) I'm assuming the computer's settings for fuel/air mixture and whatever else reset. And at the same time I replaced the injectors and FPR. I wonder if the combination of those things required the computer to relearn the proper A/F ratio and whatever else and as soon as the mechanic got it, it was dialed in.

I'll pick it up tonight and update if I learn anything new.
are you finding you need to top off your oil occasionally? your photo of your spark plug looks like you've got oil entering the combustion chamber, and thus a ring job may be needed. what do your new sparks look like now? would you do a then/now photo? just pick one that's easy to pull.

it's also possible that the darkened appearance is not oil but a too-rich condition. you said you replaced the O2 and A/F sensors. what did they look like, btw?
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Last edited by photoleif; 03-24-2021 at 10:12 PM. Reason: fix an oops
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Old 03-25-2021, 07:49 AM #55
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Did they hook up a decent code reader to it? Any anomalies in the live data? Anything aftermarket in it as far as electrical is concerned?
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Old 03-27-2021, 11:11 AM #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
are you finding you need to top off your oil occasionally? your photo of your spark plug looks like you've got oil entering the combustion chamber, and thus a ring job may be needed. what do your new sparks look like now? would you do a then/now photo? just pick one that's easy to pull.

it's also possible that the darkened appearance is not oil but a too-rich condition. you said you replaced the O2 and A/F sensors. what did they look like, btw?

Oil level is holding fine, but thatís a good idea on the plugs. Iíll check them. O2 and A/F looked tan/light brown when I replaced them.
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Old 03-27-2021, 11:19 AM #57
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Did they hook up a decent code reader to it? Any anomalies in the live data? Anything aftermarket in it as far as electrical is concerned?

They checked for codes and found none. I didn’t ask about live data, but I’ll follow up with them. The live data on my scanner was within specs, but my scanner is far from pro grade.

I think you’re on to something with your electrical question. My suspicion has turned from fuel to electrical this week. Nothing aftermarket electrical currently installed, but at some point a PO installed an amplifier and other sound stuff. It was all gone by the time I got the vehicle, but I could tell it wasn’t a clean installation. I had to clean up the battery ground. There’s also a fuse in the inside fuse box occupying a location that is vacant in the all the Toyota documentation I’ve seen. I can’t tell what it’s connected to. The mechanic found a bit of bare wire in the igniter wire harness that he wrapped with tape, but he didn’t mention it as a concern. I’ll follow up this post with videos of it having difficulty starting....
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Old 03-27-2021, 11:38 AM #58
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Status:
- After picking up from the mechanic, the loss of power issue while driving has stopped. I'm concerned because it only lasted three days and nothing was done to fix it.
- The long crank time has evolved. It's gotten longer and it's not just a long crank. It now has kind of an exasperated sound right before it starts. It's doing this every time now.

If you look at my recent posts on this thread, you'll see I'm thinking this could be an electrical issue. If for no other reason than I've essentially replaced the fuel system :-)

I have videos my daughter recorded of the last three starts. I can't seem to upload the videos so I saved them to google drive. Let me know if you have access issues.

IMG_1866.MOV - Google Drive

IMG_1865.mov - Google Drive

IMG_1863.mov - Google Drive
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Old 03-27-2021, 07:36 PM #59
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It is a good thing that your daughter is an optimist. It will serve her well in life.

I would go over both interior and under the hood fuse boxes with a fine tooth comb. Something may not be grounding correctly or the like. Also even pull the radio and snoop around.

Also, did the mechanic perform a fuel pressure test, both cold and warm?
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Old 03-28-2021, 06:13 AM #60
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Quote:
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It is a good thing that your daughter is an optimist. It will serve her well in life.

I would go over both interior and under the hood fuse boxes with a fine tooth comb. Something may not be grounding correctly or the like. Also even pull the radio and snoop around.

Also, did the mechanic perform a fuel pressure test, both cold and warm?

Mechanic said that he couldnít get the problem to occur so I bet he wouldnít pull out full pressure gauge.

When I have long cranks (2-3 sec.) itís when itís hot. When itís cold, it rotates over maybe twice and fires right up. I havent really looked into it because itís been that way since I bought it from the PO.


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