09-03-2013, 06:55 PM
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#1
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Steering Play Mod Complete
I'm no mechanic and this took under 2 hours, I completed this on a 1998 4runner with 109,000 miles, made a very noticeable improvement in steering sensitivity.
There are plenty of pics in the thread, but what terryj5 does is what I followed, much less to remove.
Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - Page 2 - TTORA Forum
Looking at replacing plugs, Suspension, carpet next...
Last edited by jsmith811; 09-03-2013 at 06:59 PM.
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09-03-2013, 11:12 PM
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#2
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Never seen this before. Glad I have never noticed a rattle in my steering or any bad wandering. Although I could use new rack bushings.
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2005 v8 Limited 4wd
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09-03-2013, 11:38 PM
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#3
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It looks a lot more involved than a 2 hour fix. Nice job.
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2000 4runner Sport, SAS/4wheel Underground 3 link, Diamond axle, 14" Radflo coilovers, double locked, Custom rear 3 link, 12" Fox shocks, full armor Gerdo's Build Thread
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09-04-2013, 12:01 AM
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#4
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is it do able with out taking the whole steering column out?
i mean can i tac weld it in the vehicle?
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09-04-2013, 12:14 AM
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#5
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Whoa, this might be what my steering play is from. I'll have to do the diagnosis tomorrow. Thanks for pointing this out!
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09-04-2013, 12:23 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootmymime
is it do able with out taking the whole steering column out?
i mean can i tac weld it in the vehicle?
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Even if there was access I still wouldn't weld INSIDE the vehicle. But if you did decide to, I would cover up and disconnect everything including the battery and place your ground as close to the welding joint as possible. It is not necessary to disconnect the battery, but I still do. Can't be to safe.
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Last edited by 5vzT4R; 09-04-2013 at 12:36 AM.
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09-04-2013, 01:43 AM
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#7
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I did this 'mod' two years ago. Instead of the weld I used a 3/32 or 3/16 roll pin. First had to drill a hole though the steering column. This took some time as the steering column is solid metal. After drilling the hole I tapped/hammered the roll pin in. Then sanded the roll pin down so no sharp edges were sticking out. So far it has held up great even after multiple off road trips. Please use this advice with caution as I'm not an expert. You are removing a safety future the truck has built into it but a mechanic I asked (who would not weld it) said a roll pin would break in the event of an accident.
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09-04-2013, 06:32 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masphx
You are removing a safety future the truck has built into it but a mechanic I asked (who would not weld it) said a roll pin would break in the event of an accident.
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Probably. The question is whether it will break before your chest does!
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09-04-2013, 08:44 AM
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glad my steering it uber tight still.
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09-04-2013, 10:51 AM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I_bRAD
Probably. The question is whether it will break before your chest does!
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Yep, it is a gamble but it seems like a tac weld would be stronger and thus not break as easily. The mechanic at the time that I asked knew exactly what I was trying to do. He said a tac weld might roll up in between the two parts during a crash and disable the safety future. He stated a roll pin would shear off during a crash. Again not an expert so if someone has a different opinion please share. Its and important topic.
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1998 4x4 5speed E-locked 225k - TRD 2nd Gen Charger w/ URD 7th injector - ICON 2.5 Standard Coilovers, ICON 2.5 Rear w/ Remote Res, ICON FJ Shin Guards, stock UCA, Tundra 199mm, ARB Bumper, Custom Tire Swingout bumper, Custom low profile roof rack, Lotas LC, Stubbs HD-SKO, 265/75/16 Duratrecs on OEM 5 Stars, Shockworks Combo Skids, Lightforce Genesis 210 halogens, 20% front tint, Uniden 520Xpro, 99+ Cup Holders & Headlights, Clarion CX501 deck, UG scanner, rear diff mod
2003 V8 4x4 Limited Black 156k stock for now. ICON ordered
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09-04-2013, 10:58 AM
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#11
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Where did this idea that the slip joint is a safety feature come about? I would think that, since these vehicles have airbags (the device that is supposed to support you in an accident), the steering wheel shouldn't move at all. Plus, the way that it is mounted, a ton of stuff would have to break for that slip joint to move. I'm guessing everyone is talking about an impact driving the steering linkage up into the car, but even then, it would be pretty hard to get that to happen since the linkage goes straight down right on the other side of the firewall. It would have to be a serious impact.
It looks to me like that slip joint is for the u joint on the steering wheel. With a single u joint, a slip joint would be required to operate properly. I'm wondering if this is why a few guys in that thread reported having their steering wheel stay in a turned position at low speeds after doing this mod (when the auto centering from the caster is less effective).
Just thinking out loud, though. Looks like a really effective mod and I just don't think anyone needs to worry about the safety side of it. I know I've felt the rattle when driving off-road, but it's not too bad yet. I'd probably try shimming that hex joint before welding on it, but that's just me.
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09-04-2013, 11:36 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wooden Payload
Where did this idea that the slip joint is a safety feature come about?
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In the late 60's once Ralph nader exposed safety defects to the public.
It's been federal law since then.
His book is called "unsafe at any speed" if you want to read more about it
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09-04-2013, 03:40 PM
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#13
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A tac weld should not be stronger the a pin. A tac is simply that, a temporary tac weld to hold two joints together before completey welding the joint together. As long as you don't put 5 tacs that are deeply penetrated with complete fusion, it WILL break fairly easy.
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09-04-2013, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I_bRAD
In the late 60's once Ralph nader exposed safety defects to the public.
It's been federal law since then.
His book is called "unsafe at any speed" if you want to read more about it
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Thanks for the info, I'll definitely check that out! Had no idea that even existed. Found info on the slip joint in the wikipedia article on steering (safety section).
Steering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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09-04-2013, 04:46 PM
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#15
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Guys, be careful to diagnose this before you go welding. Buried in those posts is a way to check for this, involving feeling that slip joint while simultaneously turning the wheel to make sure that your slip is actually in that joint and not somewhere else. Don't just assume this is your problem.
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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