02-02-2021, 02:59 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: north east of Fairbank out there in the frontiers Alaska
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Real Name: 3 Bears
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wont effect most of you, but when they (jumpers) get down to real low temps, like -20, they go dead real fast or just dont work. Never thought of using the way the OP did to drive on to get home, nice thinking.
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2000 SR-5 Highlander version 4:30's, factory locker , green, bought 6/21
2001 SR-5... bought 11/20..sold 6/21....
2000 SR-5 moded, lifted, e locker, other cool stuff, totaled 10/20
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02-02-2021, 03:49 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Lexington, SC
Posts: 48
Real Name: Adam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears
wont effect most of you, but when they (jumpers) get down to real low temps, like -20, they go dead real fast or just dont work. Never thought of using the way the OP did to drive on to get home, nice thinking.
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Just make sure that you do everything possible to limit what is using electricity. I even disabled the Daytime Running Lights. No radio, heater fan, and tried not to use turn signal any more than absolutely necessary. By the way, it was raining most of the way, thank GOD for Rainex! I figured that I was only going to get one shot at this, so make it count.
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
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02-02-2021, 06:49 PM
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#18
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
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Weather your spare Alt is a reman or not it’s still a Denso, buy a brush assembly from Toyota for the correct amp output and it’s good to go. I had mine the next day by 10am. 22 dollars.
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02-06-2021, 12:21 PM
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#19
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Location: Lexington, SC
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Real Name: Adam
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Ok, so I replaced the brushes with Toyota part that is linked on previously mentioned video. At first the alternator was putting out 14.2vdc then started fluctuating between 14.2 and 14.0vdc. Now it has dropped down to fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.8vdc all of this at idle. When driving it stays between 13.9 and 14.2vdc. Is it possible the the diode pack is going?
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
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02-06-2021, 12:57 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamdmc
Ok, so I replaced the brushes with Toyota part that is linked on previously mentioned video. At first the alternator was putting out 14.2vdc then started fluctuating between 14.2 and 14.0vdc. Now it has dropped down to fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.8vdc all of this at idle. When driving it stays between 13.9 and 14.2vdc. Is it possible the the diode pack is going?
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The voltage regulator it temp compensated. The warmer the regulator the lower the charge voltage. 13.6 to 14.3 is normal for a Denso
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02-06-2021, 04:43 PM
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#21
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Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I always get the fault code when it drops down to 13.6vdc. I guess that time will tell.
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
Last edited by Adamdmc; 02-06-2021 at 09:42 PM.
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02-06-2021, 06:19 PM
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#22
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Low Voltage + P1135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamdmc
Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I always get the fault code when it drops down to 3.6vdc. I guess that time will tell.
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On a hot summer day I’ve seen 13.5 on my rig with the 80a Alt. Normally with this 80a Alt, the lowest I seen is 13.6 to 13.8.
The one I have on now is a 70a with an aftermarket VR and diode block. Plus a smaller pulley to spin it faster at idle.
I installed a DC amp meter temporarily when I sped up the Alt to track any improvement.
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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 02-06-2021 at 06:22 PM.
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02-07-2021, 07:39 AM
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#23
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Location: Lexington, SC
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But is this normal for 45 degrees outside and running less than 7 miles (10 min)? I need to be able to trust it for 2000 mile 36hr round-trip runs from SC to MASS.
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‘05 SR5 Sport
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02-07-2021, 08:49 AM
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#24
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Elite Member
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Low Voltage + P1135
Your 13.5v was under what conditions?
If you have an automatic and you seen 13.5v in gear with your foot on the brake idling at 600rpm with lights and your heater on that is normal.
The factory Alt can only push 40a at 600rpm.
I’m pretty sure the low end spec is 13.5v in the FSM......
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02-07-2021, 08:59 AM
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#25
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The charging specs are at 2000rpm.
13.9-15.1 at 2000rpm at 77f.
13.5-14.3 at 2000rpm at 239f.
The temps are underhood temps not ambient temps.
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02-07-2021, 09:55 AM
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#26
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Thanks for the data. I always prefer to speak with data, otherwise it is mere speculation or theory. I'm going to watch it for a day or two and see what happens.
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
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02-07-2021, 10:59 AM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamdmc
Thanks for the data. I always prefer to speak with data, otherwise it is mere speculation or theory. I'm going to watch it for a day or two and see what happens.
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I usually don’t speculate 
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02-08-2021, 02:44 PM
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#28
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Ok, so maybe I don't have an alternator problem any longer, but I still feel like something isn't right. I just drove 100miles of interstate and voltage read 14.0-14.4 the whole way. Once I get off the hwy and stop at a red light voltage starts dropping. Rolled window down and it dropped to 13.5 then slowly down from there. Is it possible that my battery isn't holding properly? Nothing else was running, like blower motor or auxiliary items plugged in.
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'01 4wd SR5 w/ lots of FUN left to give
‘05 SR5 Sport
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02-08-2021, 04:07 PM
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#29
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My rig only uses 13a to run with nothing on but the radio.
Look for a bad battery connection
Measure battery post voltage while someone rolls down the window.
What rpm were you idling at when you put the window down and seen 13.5v.
A bad diode will cause reduced voltage at lower rpm. When I lost a diode I had a loud whining when I would turn on anything. It would barely push 12.9v just running the engine at idle.
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02-08-2021, 04:31 PM
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#30
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Where were you reading the voltage from?
The cig lighter is not a good voltage source.....
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