Do the adjustments while on the ground with plastic bags under the tire after the suspension has settled, you didn't do shocks but pull it in and out of the shop so everything settles and bring it in and make the adjustments while it is on the ground, no point in adjusting it at full droop as you have no baseline to measure from while the geometry is outta wack. To be honest you will have a hard time getting it close, get the tierods close and eyeball or stringline it and let the tech do his thing, post your alignment after.

Made some progress.
Right side very close to 0 toe now based on tape measurements, major difference as it was close to a full inch toe-in before.
Left side giving me problem as still nearly 3/4” toe-in.
I basically adjusted right side to match thread count of left side.
Both sides now show 1 CM of threads which translates to 6 threads.
Any suggestions prior to bringing to dealer.
Can further left side but then significant difference in amount of threads showing side to side.
School me.........Why such a difference in toe side to side if thread count the same.

To do an alignment you ball park toe, then use the LCA adjusters first to set Camber, Caster, then set toe with tie-rods, then go back and make sure Camber and caster are still good and basically even on both sides so the Cams mirror opposing sides, then go back and set toe again so that it is close to the same amount of threads, the steering wheel should end up straight this way as set from factory, you can bump the steering wheel shaft on the splines but it shouldn't be needed if front components, steering rack and LCA bushings are good and the vehicle hasn't been in an accident. Take it to the alignment shop, there is a lot of variables to account for that would be difficult to do with a measuring tape. Did you use OEM original OTR & ITR that seems pretty far outta whack even if you eyeballed the parts.

LBJ’s, inner & outer tie rods OEM factory Toyota purchased from reputable Toyota dealer.
No history of accident and strictly an on road driven vehicle.
I guess possibility of worn control arm bushings or steering rack but never any evidence of either presented.
I can try and adjust the toe further on the left side closer to 0 but will land up with way different amount of the threads remaining and a significant difference over 1.5mm side to side as noted in service manual.
I’ll play with it a bit more and if no good results leave for Dealer to hopefully put in spec tomorrow.
Problem is I have trust issues when comes to dealers/shops working on my vehicles.

You can balance out the difference on the tierods by using the LCA adjusters. Try rocking the steering wheel back and forth while parked and look at the steering rack for movement at the bushings/mounts, if it's shifting you will have trouble setting the toe correctly. LCA bushings after 20 years and 240,000miles will probably have play in them throwing things off aswell. These are all great things to replace after this much time before going for an alignment.

Solid advice on replacing LCA bushings and steering rack mounts/bushings, especially after 190K miles.
I’ll mess around with it a bit later this afternoon and let Dealership do alignment tomorrow to hopefully bring things into focus a bit more.
Thanks for taking time out to explain things, much appreciated.

Lots of things can make the L/R tie rod adjustment not match that are not accident related:

- The steering wheel splines can be off (or just the wheel is turned)
- (in some cases) the steering shaft splines can be off
- The camber/caster adjustments can be off

If they are two tie rod adjustments are far off, the amount of steering left vs. right will be off. Like 1.4 turns to the left and 1.6 to the right, which tells you something 'above' the steering rack is off. Get that right, then trust the rest 'below' the rack (tie rods, camber/caster) will fix it from there.

-Charlie

Just back from dealer after wheel alignment.
Print out below

Attached Images

 

Looks ok, they didn't attempt to adjust caster or camber as the numbers look good, and the toe on one side is at the limit of the acceptable range but ok. Curious how well they balanced out the tie-rods but you should be good to go.

I’ll have it up in the air for a look and will grab some quick measurements later this afternoon.
Based on those numbers I suspect not many threads left on the left side.
I spoke with the tech about the Caster & Camber. He said no need to make any changes other than Toe as others were good which seems to be indicated in the print out.
He said adjusting cams looked to be in good shape as well as LCA bushings.

He is correct, no need to adjust LCA cams if camber/caster is correct and tie-rod thread is balanced as per FSM. He cannot tell you the adjusters condition buy looking at it, you would have to loosen them to see if they are free which he didn't, but he should have done a full front end inspection before performing the alignment which should flag bad LCA bushings if present although difficult to inspect without loosening cams, so he is correct and you're aligned and good to go so no worries until you notice tire wear, LCA play, torn LCA bushings and or pulling L/R while braking or clucking noises, if you decide to lift it making adjustments to the LCA can is critical for alignment, but that's not a concern for you, glad it worked out as the numbers look good except toe on one side is at the outter limit of acceptable, but ok.

Those results look good. If you are going to +1 your tire size, you might need to increase caster - but with stock size tires that should drive good. The slightly higher camber and caster on the passenger side will correct for road crown a bit but not increase tire wear.

-Charlie

Here’s the end results regarding toe adjustment as per tie rods.
Right side is at 8 1/2 mm of remaining thread and left side 5 1/2 mm thread remaining.
Looks like FSM states both sides should be within 1 1/2 mm of each other.
Does this become an issue or good to go since toe setting is where it’s supposed to be.
I would post pics but for some reason they fail to upload which is new problem been having.

Pretty hard to get even the dealers to go by the FSM, they are not Toyota just a shop with rights to Toyota sales and service, I went back to my dealer 3 times paying for the alignment twice, asking for them to dial it in better with a completely rebuilt front suspension. This is where inspection of components and your LCA Cam adjustments come in making the job easier, it's not an easy job to balance it out and takes lots of time and adjusting of all components, that's why you ignore the steering wheel, ball park toe to spec, then adjust camber&caster and revisit toe last, if the steering splines haven't been messed with from factory it should all work out in a perfect world on a straight vehicle in perfect working order. Is your alignment fine, yes, it's just not done according to the Toyota FSM. I don't know which side is out, but would correcting the toe to 0.05" on the one side bring you closer to spec?

It’s funny, I printed out the 4 pages of the FSM that you attached in previous link and handed it to the tech.
As I walked into waiting area I thought to myself no way he’s even looking at that but at least I tried!
It does seem to track straight and handle well so I’m ok for now. We’ll see how the tires wear as that will be the real test.