Replaced LBJ’s & inner/outer tie rods.
Toe obviously way off as wheels both point inwards and also appear to be out at the top.
Front end looks to sit higher but not 100% certain of that.
Did my best to count threads and transfer from old to new tie rods but I must have missed.
Would greatly appreciate any recommendations on selecting a knowledgeable alignment shop.
Anything within reasonable distance Rhinebeck, NY 12572

Do a tape measure front end alignment to get it close before driving it to get an alignment

Zero experience with that but doing a search now. If you know of a specific thread please point me in the right direction.

You can even it out by measuring back and front of the opposing front tires, and by measuring off the back tires to the front tires, some even use string for toe front to back and make sure the Camber looks level with a simple level. After seeing some of the alignment jobs on here by professional shops, upside down cam adjusters, bent cam alignment tabs, uneven tierod thread adjustment, no camber or caster adjustment and out of spec alignment I would take it to the dealer and bring out this FSM for alignment and ask for a print out and make sure it falls dam close to ideal spec not just in range. Make sure your lower control arm adjusters spin freely before you take it in. Some shops don't know you adjust the LCA by loosening the adjuster bolt, and using the nut to adjust the LCA Cams, they turn the nut first bending the tabs.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...a/fwa/insp.pdf

Thanks for link to specs.
I did just schedule with local dealer (Prestige Toyota) to bring Wednesday morning.
I can see without measuring both wheels have significant toe-in. I would like to make some basic adjustment to this before driving 25 miles to dealer.
Is the following correct.
1) Disconnect outer tie rod from LBJ
2) Loosen lock nut securing OTR to ITR
3) Spin OTR (clockwise to reduce toe-in?) to make adjustment
4) How many turns? Since OTR disconnected from LBJ I won’t see results until I reconnect OTR to LBJ. Do I need to reconnect OTR to LBJ each time I make a slight adjustment?
6) Is the goal to have both RT & LT sides show the same amount of threads remaining while both wheels remain straight (0 toe).

Leave tie-rods connected!!, loosen Jam nut at outer tie-rod thread, remove tension clamp for steering rack boot/inner tie-rod so the boot doesn't twist when you twist the inner tie-rod shaft, turn inner tie-rod shaft to adjust accordingly, they are both standard RH thread. Follow FSM so that tie-rod thread is within 1mm of each other comparing both sides. 24miles isn't much, you'll be fine, but nice to have it close by eye, number of turns depends on each rig and how far its out.

The most likely thing to cause you issues at the alignment shop is seized LCA bushings, mark all 4 or 8 Cam washers using the factory marks on the components and make sure your Cams are not seized, if they are seized most alignment shops won't tell you or notice and they twist the bushing making for a terrible ride and an alignment that creeps out of spec over time as the bushing tears itself apart.

Bingo......the light bulb just lit!
I was under impression toe adjustment had to come by turning OTR assembly.
Thanks for the explanation, much clearer now.
I have been hitting the adjustment cams/hardware with Kroil for past few weeks in anticipation of alignment so hoping that preventative step pays off.

Highly unlikely any penetrant will get to the sleeve of the LCA and the penetrant will actually cause the rubber to degrade and pose a problem later, you don't want petrol oil on rubber ever. It's 4 bolts and nuts, loosen them, make sure they move, if they don't move freely and you take it in, you'll have to do this all over again..

Thanks again for the heads up.
Just applying Kroil to the hardware, not on the bushings themselves.
Hoping I don’t run into seized lower arm bushings but definitely a possibility given my northeast location.
I will give the hardware a try prior when I have on lift adjusting the toe.

You can adjust the toe with the vehicle in the air, but lower it back on the tires and bounce the front end a couple times and pull forward or backward a few feet before rechecking

If it's not too far, I work at an offroad shop in south central PA! We do alignments everyday, but might be a little too far to come to with a garage alignment! It's Mount Zion Offroad if you're interested

^ Agree with Bad Luck, all these adjustments need to be done while vehicle is on the ground and with a settled suspension, some put plastic bags under the tires to let them slip easier while making adjustments but not really required.

That's a good idea with the plastic bags! I used a couple cheap baking sheets greased on the bottom but they make a horrendous noise

Just to clarify, what you guys are suggesting is make the toe adjustment while the front end is in the air (wheels off the ground) and then lower on slippery surface such as plastic bags, etc to check results?

This is good to know, will keep your info for future reference.
I’ll do my best to bring the toe back into closer adjustment and take to dealer Wednesday morning for complete alignment