[VGKBlackhawks]

Hey everyone. I have a 3" lift with Total Chaos UCAs and unknown LCAs (not OEM... I know that) that got replaced when I had the lift done. I've taken my truck to the most reputable alignment shop in Vegas (A Arrow) three times now. They haven't charged me again, but there is visible positive camber even though the numbers don't agree (slight negative) and the outside of my front tires are starting to show excessive wear. The truck is also super darty, especially at highway speeds. I apologize for the lack of pictures, but it is obvious. They did point out that one of my cam bolts (passenger) was not OEM. I'm going to replace that, but still doesn't explain the issue. Both sides are positive.

I spoke to another mechanic who said that it is possible that the probably shitty lower control arm dimensions don't match OEM. Has anyone heard of that? Beyond that, shouldn't the alignment specs show the visible positive camber regardless?

Let me know if you think pictures would help diagnose and I'll get off of my ass and take some. If there are particular shots that would help, please specify.

As always, thanks guys.

[shadow247]

The specs don't lie. If the machine shows your angles are within spec, and the truck still rides like it's out of spec, something is set up wrong on the machine. I've been in collision repair for 20 years, and the number one problem I had was techs not setting up the heads right and making it either look like the alignment was good, or that it was way off and needed parts replaced.

Can you put a pic of your specs up so we can see? I've analyzed hundreds of alignment sheets and repairs hundred of front suspensions on all kinds of vehicles.

[UnderFire]

Darty/poor return to center would tell me that either the caster is off or there's excessive toe in. Toe in would also cause poor tire wear. Is your steering wheel centered up?

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[VGKBlackhawks]

Here are the latest numbers. I tried to take a pic of the front end, but it was too dark for anything conclusive.

EDIT: The wheel was off before the last alignment. Pretty straight now.

[UnderFire]

Originally Posted by VGKBlackhawks

Here are the latest numbers. I tried to take a pic of the front end, but it was too dark for anything conclusive.

EDIT: The wheel was off before the last alignment. Pretty straight now.

Yea caster and toe were way off before, toe is fixed now but it doesn't look like they did much with the LCA cams. Snap a Pic of the alignment cam bolts, mainly on the rear of the LCA, it should be maxed out or close to it to achieve proper alignment with 3" of lift.

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[Bad Luck]

First time I've seen an alignment machine reading of inches for toe instead of degrees. That's really weird.

[shadow247]

Your Left Caster is still off. Look at the SAI also. Something is still off on the left front. It looks like they may meed to adjust the upper caster setting on the upper control arm.

This chart I attached says its a bent Knuckle or lower control arm. Our suspension is a Short Arm/Long Arm setup, so refer to that chart.

[VGKBlackhawks]

Originally Posted by UnderFire

Yea caster and toe were way off before, toe is fixed now but it doesn't look like they did much with the LCA cams. Snap a Pic of the alignment cam bolts, mainly on the rear of the LCA, it should be maxed out or close to it to achieve proper alignment with 3" of lift.

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Tough in the dark again, but maybe this helps?

[VGKBlackhawks]

Originally Posted by shadow247

Your Left Caster is still off. Look at the SAI also. Something is still off on the left front. It looks like they may meed to adjust the upper caster setting on the upper control arm.

This chart I attached says its a bent Knuckle or lower control arm. Our suspension is a Short Arm/Long Arm setup, so refer to that chart.

Wow. Interesting. The LCAs are new... at least they were on the first two alignment attempts. I haven't done anything crazy since. The steering knuckle is original to the truck since I've had it.

Should I try another shop maybe?

[UnderFire]

Originally Posted by VGKBlackhawks

Tough in the dark again, but maybe this helps?

That tells a lot. The head of the bolt should be all the way to the outside of the tab, not straight down like it is. It being all the way out would push the control arm out and forward, giving you negative camber (a little, usually. 5deg) and the more caster you need to improve drivability. A different shop would be my next step.

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[VGKBlackhawks]

@UnderFire thanks for your responses! I'll try another shop.

[HiLife]

Any updates @VGKBlackhawks ? Did you try another alignment shop? What was the result?

[VGKBlackhawks]

Long story short... I got new LCAs (gusseted OEM) and bushings (whiteline) and went to a new shop. So much better. I think the crappy LCAs I had first weren't geometrically the same as the OEMs. The bushings were even worse. I could see them flex by using turning the wheel left and right.