[shawnathan9]

..continued:

If you have successfully guided your wiring through that boot, that next thing you have to do is to get that connector lead down through the back door until you can access it at the previous location where you lead your back up camera wires. To do this, I used a coat hanger, twist sticks, and secured the extension wire connector and lead it through the narrow tunnel until it was accessible on the other end:


Take the two ends and connect them together. Use some electric tape and secure them together so they won't come apart somewhere down the line. Once secured together, zip tie the wiring away from the path of the window. You will have to use your judgement and simply fasten the wire as snug as you can against the door. You can even hot glue it to parts of the door if you want to be creative. Just get it out of the way of the windows path.

(Technically, you can connect those previous unplugged connections, turn on your truck and lower the window. You'll immediately recognize where it leads and how to avoid the windows path.)

Once you've correctly set the wires, pull the wire back from the boot to remove any excess slack. Be gentle so you don't unplug the connection that you have secured fastened with electric tape:


Do the same thing and remove any excess slack from the boot that is closest to the chassis. Now, you'll want to go through the reverse steps and reinstall the rubber boot. *Good luck on this part. I decided to use black gasket sealer and formed a clean-ish seal around the boot where I wasn't able to push back into the holes.

Now, you'll want to lead the reverse light wiring to the reverse light and so you'll want to remove the side trim from your interior to gain access to some existing wires that you can use as guides to zip tie your wiring in place:


You can save yourself the guess work and know that the red/blue wire for a 1996 limited is the power for the reverse lights. Therefore, you don't have to lead your wiring to the actual lights and simply tap into it within the chassis as shown here. *Note: the red wire is soldered into the red/blue wire and then a protective (white) shrink wrap is covering the solder point. To the right is a black wire I lead to a new ground point I created because the existing grounds where already connected from two different connections. I zip tied the remaining wire length and fastened it to the chassis:


While the trim was exposed, I guided the wiring on the top liner until it reached the b-pilar and then guided it to the bottom where I ran it through the OEM wiring channels:


From here, continue to lead it under the A-pilar, and through the front driver lower panel until you can guide it underneath the driver side panel under the steering wheel. From there, simply guide it go your aftermarket stereo of choice. In my case, a budge Android 7 inch double din did the job. My novice wiring skills at hand:


1. Google your car models stereo wiring diagram to confirm the connections.
2. Get yourself a wire harness adapter for your aftermarket stereo.
3. Purchase the right mounting brackets
4. *Install and test fit your console. In my case, I should have measured the OEM console and then chosen a stereo head that measured to spec. However, I made some small dremel adjustments to the bezel of my center console as needed and it made for a smooth OEM style fit:


I'm glad I went through the trouble to make this work as I didn't have a wireless license plate camera as those tend to look really tacky.

The camera sits well and looks like how Toyota OEM back up cameras are mounted. The budget android screen shows a good resolution, as does the camera that captures the video, and it engages as it should without fault. I'm definitely glad I invested in this mod as I know have a means to back up really close to my garage or anything else I might tow.

The camera and head unit rounded up to around 160-80 total but you could get away with doing it for just the camera if you already have a good head unit. Best of luck to you...and what did you do today?

[shawnathan9]

Well, I just spent a good 30 mins typing up a reply and then "x" out of that tab like a nimrod so here I am again, typing out the same ol' that I just typed 30 mins ago.

I recently performed a transmission flush which was over due as, you'll see from the upcoming picture, the fluid looked more like dark molasses than a cherry pie red. I decided on this for maintenance concerns as the previous owner had no record of any transmission fluid fills within the last decade.

As such, I present to you the dark molasse that oozed out of my transmission lines during this flush:


I went through 2 gallons of new fluid, during this flush, before I began to see "red" transmission fluid re-appear on the drain hose/catch can. Once I noticed that the fluid being drained was a clear red, I called it good and filled in what I took out; I bought a cheap $8.00 12qt container at Smart and Final and modified it by making several 1/2 qt increments so I could accurately measure the drained fluid against what I needed to fill:


Filling was measured using another cheap 4qt painters bucket from Home Depot. - I used an approximate 2.5 gallons of new transmission during this flush:


It sure beats the cost to do this yourself than to pay someone else to do what you can do with a minimal amount of tools, your time, a few buckets, and new fluids.

Drove around for a few days, checked for any leaks, and noticed smoother shifting into gears and a slightly lower transmission temp.

My next goal was to replace the green coolant which appeared to have entered the vehicle sometime in 2007 when the previous owner had a coolant leak from the radiator. At that time, the maintenance records indicated a spectra radiator and a unbranded thermostat/gasket was replaced. There was no indication of any hoses being replaced then, after, and until I purchased the Runner.

As such, I figured that this was all due soon and I'd rather get to it before it gets to me through some breakdown while I'm out on a trail or on the highway. So, I ordered new upper/lower hoses, a OEM thermostat/gasket, and a OEM radiator from Magnussen Toyota of Palo Alto:


First things first, I drained 2quarts of radiator fluid from the petcock. Opening up the radiator cap helps with this process. - Make sure your coolant temps are low so you don't burn yourself.

After a good 2 quarts drains out, I temporarily closed the petcock and then I removed the old upper radiator hose.

(Warning: try to have your coolant temps low so you don't scold yourself with hot fluids AND also make sure you've drained at least 2 quarts out so you don't remove the upper radiator hose while there's fluid leveled at that height!).

Once you've removed that upper radiator hose, you can use it to increase the time it takes to drain out your coolant from the system.

Now, simply go back and unfasten the petcock all the way BUT keep your fingers pressed down on the petcock to keep it in place.

With the radiator hose in your other hand hand, place one end of that old radiator hose over the petcock and the other end into the catch bucket.

Then, use your other hand let your finger go of the petcock which will come draining out of the radiator hose and into your catch bucket. Let radiator hose redirect the gushing fluid into the bucket instead of it gushing out all over your engine bay and driveway. - It saves so much time flushing the fluid this way than to let the petcock drip away for 30mins each flush interval you'll perform moving forward.

Okay, I didn't capture any photo of the said method as it required both hands to perform it as you can imagine.

After all the coolant was flushed, I removed the transmission fluid lines on the inlet/outlet of the radiator, plugged those lines to prevent transmission fluid loss, and proceeded to remove the upper/lower radiator hoses:


I removed the lower radiator hose and water outlet pipe to reveal the thermostat:


During this process, one of the thermostat bolt studs actually came off the engine. Later on, I had no specs about this stud and it's torque rating so I ended up using the same torque spec required for the thermostat outlet pipe. Time will tell if this holds up later on.

Note: The mechanic whom previously installed the off-brand thermostat had it positioned at 12 o'clock which is the opposite of what Toyota recommends which is the 6 o'clock position.

The off-brand thermostat also has a jiggle valve that was stationed closer to the diaphragm of the thermostat than on the exterior circumference which is how the OEM thermostat was built:


The OEM thermostat has a much more robust jiggle valve shown in this pic at 12 o'clock:


I added a new gasket onto the OEM thermostat and installed it back onto the engine. Next, I removed the coolant overflow container and flushed that with distilled water until I was satisfied.

I took the old water outlet pipe, cleaned it's mating surfaces and replaced the lower radiator hose with a new silicone aftermarket hose:




I installed the new OEM radiator back in place, re-attached the transmission fluid lines, attached the lower/upper radiator hoses, and then the coolant overflow container back in place:



I simply went with blue since it matches my NGK plug wires and a blue oil catch can I have running through a PVC outlet tube to throttle body.

Next, I topped the radiator up using a Lisle funnel, which really helps with the process, and proceeded through approximately 8-10 gallons of distilled water until the nasty old green stuff was no more. There's just something satisfying about the color change and how you just know you're doing something good for the Runner. Money shot:


I flushed the last amount of distilled water out of the radiator and then began to add the Toyota Red back into the system. Note: It really helps to jack up your Runner on it's rear to help flush out the distilled water. - Then, it's helpful to later jack up the front end when you finally top it off to help remove any trapped air. - You'll want the Runner leveled when you do your final topping off however.

To top it all off, pun intended, I busted out my new OEM Toyota radiator cap and stored the aftermarket one for emergency cases:


*Now I feel much better with the idea that the Red coolant has better corrosion preventative properties than the green. Nowadays, they have Toyota and Zerex Red around enough areas that you'll probably have access to them in case of an emergency.

*Got to remind myself to print out a maintenance worksheet and keep it in my glove box so I can see what my next intervals should be. - Do you guys use apps to keep up to date or go the old fashioned way and log it in excel or a paper print out? - Thoughts?

[shawnathan9]

I'm trying out a Flowermaster 50 that I picked up from Autozone during a holiday deal; $50 for a 50.


So far, I like the low end rumble it makes but the high end and highway sounds a bit overboard. I still have my old muffler and am going to see if this grows on me or if I should go back to the "nice and quiet" Toyota sound.

I figured I try some sound deadening mats to see how much it'll help with the sound. So far, it didn't change much but I haven't installed any mats in the front, console, and rear floor of the saloon. When that happens, I'll post if this stuff really works for low end sounds.



I'm starting to feel like I should make a Build thread with all these things I've been doing lately. - I might just copy and paste all my posts into a new thread, maybe.

[shawnathan9]

I've been thinking about a Satoshi grill mod but I haven't been satisfied with the larger TOYOTA emblems that tend to make the grill look over the top.

I recall the original Satoshi grill had a old school Landcruiser TOYOTA emblem which was quite smaller and looked pretty nice on the grill. However, I felt that the retro TOYOTA font looked a bit dated and the newer FJ Cruiser TOYOTA logo looked too big.

I owned a 1991 2nd Gen that had the TOYOTA name plate on the radiator grill and it gave me the idea to use that for the Satoshi Mod. I previously sold my 2nd gen so I no longer had access to the name plate but I recently found one on eBay and snagged it right up for this mod.

I personally think the hard to find 2nd gen TOYOTA name plate is the way to go if you decide to do a Satoshi Mod:

I decided to keep my chrome trim and ended up using a matte rust/silver finish for the trim area and it matched perfectly with the lower valance color:


Example of a FJ Cruiser TOYOTA name plate:




Example of a retro Landcruiser TOYOTA name plate:


Just as anyone who does this mod, I'm very happy with the result. I especially feel that using the 2nd Gen '90-'91 TOYOTA name plate for the Satoshi Mod makes works out really well with the font size and chrome lettering that matches the grill trim:

[shawnathan9]

Earlier this week, I received my SPC UCAs, Whiteline LCA bushings, and I also gathered all the parts for the Tundra brake upgrade and got really busy on Wednesday morning.

I went with SPC UCAs as it would be helpful to adjust things when I upgrade my tires in the near future. Installation was a breeze; unfasten, remove the bolt, grab new UCA and contort your hands, move some parts, and Abracadabra Alakazam! - New parts practically walked themselves back into the original space:


The LCA were a PITA TBH! Nearly removed the rack and pinion, match marked camber dials, contort tie rods to remove the bolts. Once they come off, the real fun began:


I used a ball joint press to pop off the inner bearing sleeve from all LCAs; Used the blowtorch method to assist with the outer bushing sleeve removal which was the real PITA. Installation of the new bushings was a breeze.


I simply used a vice grip to secure the LCA while I Thor hammered the new bushings in with press sleeve and a small sledge.


Re-installing the LCA was a slight challenge due to the limited space to sneak in the new washers that came along with the Whiteline bushing kit but I eventually made it work. Reset the match points on the cambers, reseated the rack and pinion, and then torqued all things back to OEM spec.

Having that ordeal out of the way, I started working on the TBU and replaced the rubber line with a steel braided replacement then switched back to getting the knuckle back to it's rightful place:


I give the old caliper a sweet farewell and say hello to the Tundra calipers which I decided NOT to color as I felt the black looked pretty enough. I stare at it real hard and then I tell it get to where it belongs and STAY!


All the hard work completed and, only after I reviewed this picture did I noice that I placed the retaining clip up-side-down:


Well, that was corrected and then I had the p-l-e-a-s-u-r-e of doing this procedure all over again with the driver side - yippy-kai-yay-MF's!

Just when I think it's all done, FedEx delivers my ToyTec differential drop kit which replaces the ridiculously crappy RevTek poly bushing spacers which really smush to 3/4" after 1 week of use and 1/4" spacer to correct my driver side lean.

I'll spare the details on the spacer since it's just plug and play.

But, here are some pics of the crappy poly spacer, distorted after 1 week of use, vs the aluminum spacer which should NOT have that problem.



Now imagine how much you'd have to pay someone if you didn't do these things yourself?

A well deserved beer ended the night in good fashion.

[shawnathan9]

I decided to prep the RNR for a future wheel install and went over to O'Reilys and purchased a aftermarket coolant return system that many of us have been using for the washer fluid container relocate.



The job was pretty easy; there are many tutorials to give you and idea of how it works then it's all up to you as to how you want to install the Toyota pumps onto the new container. Personally, I clipped the containers lower bracket nipples and then step drilled to fit the Toyota grommets on each side and then mounted the pumps which cleared the radiator and the head light plug



To help with future plans, I bought 4 gauge wires and connectors to beef up the grounds/electrical;

Engine to Chassis:


Positive to Alternator:


Negative to chassis:


Military grade battery terminals:

[shawnathan9]

Just replaced two lug studs on the rear of the truck. How did this happen?

I had America's Tires, Redwood City, Ca, place 285's on some 2014 OEM rims. I saw the guy torque on my rear without hand threading it. When I got home, I checked and sure enough...it was frozen.

I'm never going back to America's Tires for any wheels anymore. They just lost my business.

Now, I spent a few minutes taking off my drum and knocking out the broken stud lugs:




After all that mess, I drove my Gs300 down to Napa auto parts and picked up two lug nuts and lug studs. Went to work and then added a 1.25 Spidertrax spacer.

I went from this (The roof rack and rims were from the previous owner:





To this:




*There was not wheel well rubbing with OEM 17" at 285/70/17's. Once the 1.25" Spidertrax were added, I had rubbing in the front and rear flares and pinch weld.

I hammered down the pinch weld, cut some flares in the front and heat gun'd the rear wells plastic lining and flare mounts until I had not rubbing. *I still have to get down there and remove the coil and check for full compression rubs another day.

*I already got a buyer for my Vision 353 Turbine's. - 800 total for them along with a near full tread Yokohama Geolander A/T's on all four.

[shawnathan9]

Last night, I finished installing, what took two mornings of cable routing, a set of rock lights I picked up off of Amazon.

The first thing I did was to look under the rig and locate areas that would have the least amount of contact and try to keep the locations as uniform as possible to avoid a strange glow pattern on the ground.

I began by recycling some metal bracket plates I had lying around by bending them into an "L" and then cutting them into the right length for the location.

I mounted the rock lights using their existing mounting bolts and then sprayed the bolts to minimize corrosion:


For the rear, I decided to drill into the tow hitch frame and mounted directly to it. Drilling into that thick metal took some time but it was worth it since it allowed me to keep the lights uniform on each side as other points were different due to the way the exhaust tip leads out of the back:


Here is where I mounted in the front of the rear tire well:


For the rear of the front wheel well, I found a point near one of the body mount bushings where the metal was thinner also kept the rock lights at a low profile:


The front was the easiest to determine as I, once again, used a body mount bushing bracket as a base:


I used some wiring loom, in certain areas, to shield from exhaust and engine heat. Not sure how we'll they'll hold up so I'll have to check back on them in a couple of miles down the road. *I can always solder in some new cables in place should they melt.

I found a good place to mount a 3 switch panel I picked up:


*The light bar and rear lights are not wired in yet as that would be for a future project.

I had to dremel out some room for clearance for these switches and so I can't go back to a stock look now but I'm pretty happy with the location and that I've got the panel to sit flush within it's location.

I spliced the switch panels illumination into an existing accessory line from my aftermarket stereo. In other words, I took apart the center console just to get this thing powered up and pretty

After an hour, or two, of tucking cables in discrete areas of the frame, zip tying, and soldering connections together, I arrived at the the fuse box and began to connect the rock lights, switch panel, and relay onto the fuse box I mounted over the stock location:


I ran into a problem at first. I connected everything together but the lights wouldn't switch on. I should have tested the damn thing before I installed it and I began to think of all the wrong things and the worst case scenario that I installed a dud...that would be a nightmare to unistall and return for a replacement but that's what it looked like I was going to do...

Before giving up, I started to play with the relay connections and cut my beautifully soldered connections in half. After that, I held the rock lights power line directly to the batteries positive terminal and it lit up!

So, I figured the lights were working just fine but there's some fault in my wiring within the fuse box, very unlikely, or the relay itself. The relays came pre-installed with wires and so I grabbed another one and took that end off to see what was going on. Behold, the manufacturer of this relay screwed up big time; the 30/85/86/87 leads where NOT arranged as shown on the diagram on top of the relay itself which meant that the power, trigger, accessory, and grounds were all leading out/in incorrectly..

After figuring out the right connections, I resoldered everything nice and clean and crossed my fingers and flipped the switch. Cha-ching!


*The kit allows you to connect to the lights via bluetooth so you can change the colors, make a constant or strobe pattern, and also tune it to react with music. The color shown here is actually the white which, is kind of a disappointment, not really as white as I had seen in the picture or preferred.

I wanted to make it a solid bright white, for functionality, and not give it a car show effect. However, it's starting to *Glow on me at this point.

I want to get this to flash along with my alarm system when I lock/unlock my rig. I think that would give a nice effect but I haven't looked into this just yet. If anyone has any leads then let me know!

[Malcolm99]

Looking really nice and clean!. Wire the rocks lights into the marker light power supply so they flash with FOB lock/unlock, the power needed to run these shouldn't overload the marker light circuit but you can add that up, I guess you could use a relay and the marker + as a signal aswell if circuit overload was a concern with the combined rock lights. Ofcourse you won't be able to use the rock lights without marker lights but I'm sure you will have your lights on when you need these aswell, or just turn markers on if your working trail/road side at night. I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards, is this a OME suggestion, not that it matters, but it is noted in the FSM for stock suspension, I know the Tundra coils are suppose to be put on the opposite way bottom coil facing inwards so?, and 2nd gen Tacos and 4th gen 4R's have them facing back, so perhaps just for consistency.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...a/fsa/reas.pdf

[Endlessblockades]

Originally Posted by Malcolm99

....... I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards, is this a OME suggestion, not that it matters, but it is noted in the FSM for stock suspension, I know the Tundra coils are suppose to be put on the opposite way bottom coil facing inwards so?, and 2nd gen Tacos and 4th gen 4R's have them facing back, so perhaps just for consistency.

Me: "Uh, be right back, gotta look at the truck for a second dear......"

[shawnathan9]

Originally Posted by Malcolm99

I noticed the bottom of your front coils aren't clocked as per the FSM with the end of the bottom coil facing outwards

Yes, it's something in the back of my mind as well.

I was under the impression that the FSM recommends this for clearance concerns with the stock UCA and at full flex (uca hitting the coil or locking into it).

I just had an alignment and so I'm not looking to redo until I look further into this.

I could just reseat the assembly, without taking it apart, and move the top position one bolt over. I'm just concerned how much it'll affect my alignment since I just had one done and everything sits well now. ��*♂️��*♂️��*♂️

@Malcolm99
Update: Okay, so I couldn't resist the urge and so I just ran down to rent a spring compressor, adjusted the spring seats within spec, and reinstalled them.

[shawnathan9]

I picked up my rock slider order from Bay Area Metal Fabrications in Benecia yesterday morning. Turns out that they forgot about the powder coat request on my work order but they didn't know until I arrived after my 1.5 hr drive from the Peninsula.

On the spot, I had to decide to wait another two days or just take a refund on the powder coat and take them. Well, being a DIY kinda guy, I decided to take them and paint them myself.


BAMF sliders have a nice design to them. - I'm really liking their logo; BAD ASS Mother F@#$3R



Did a quick test fit to determine where the mounting plates should be welded onto the sliders and to determine where they'll fit for good clearance of the wheel wells:




Just recently, I bought a welder and had been practicing how to weld various gauges of metal. So far, I still need to dial in my settings to optimize my welds and reduce bb's but I've learned to slow down and allow the puddles to penetrate the host metals to build a good weld. As far as aesthetics go, I still have a long way before any of my welds look like some instagram rainbow dime stacks:




I started the weld job yesterday during my lunch break and then earlier this morning before I headed out to work. I packed it back in the Runner so I could do some clean up during my lunch break:


*I'm debating on what kind of paint and color I should use for my rock sliders. I really like the bare steel look but rust is obviously an issue.

I'll be prepping the sliders by roughing them up, cleaning them and cleaning them again with a detergent and then isopropyl, and then some automotive primer.

I feel like a matte black is pretty much a standard.

I also have been thinking about a matching silver with my Limited trim; I'll use some skateboard paper for some additional grip on certain areas.

Not sure which way I'll go with it but I'll post an update once they're painted and on the Runner.

[shawnathan9]

I spent a lot of time at Home Depot, this morning, contemplating what color I'll settle for the rock sliders.

I spoke to a guy working in the paint section, trying to get some feedback about the closest color to bare metal; Still couldn't get a good feel on what would really work so I ended up picking a few rattle cans of matte metallic nickel, flat black enamel, and a metallic gun metal grey.

I went home and did a few test sprays on a big cheater pipe I had sitting around and I finally settled for Gun Metal Grey.

The first stage of prep; I used some non-TSP cleaner and a scotch brite and got to work on the weld spots and scuffed up all the surfaces areas; Rinse, wash, and repeat several times:


I took another look with the painted cheater bar next to my scrubbed rock sliders for a final look and definitely wanted to go with Gun Metal Grey:


I really would have preferred to keep it bare but I didn't want to use Penetrol, clear coat only on bare metal, or use some Chrome paint. I take one last look at how amazing they look in bare steel:


I grabbed my heat gun and warmed up the steel to provide a better adhesion surface/environment for the primer as well as the base paint and topcoat later on.

A few shake, rattle, and spray cans of primer later, I took a break and let the primer settle in:


I took a deep breath and hoped that the Gun Metal will look as good on the rock sliders as it did on the cheater pipe and went to work.

A couple of coats later, I stood back and took it all in, and was totally satisfied that I went with this color instead of a matte black


I went the extra step and added a matte topcoat/clear to protect the paint a bit further. I'm glad I went with a matte for the topcoat as I think that if it were glossy then I wouldn't have acheived the look I wanted:


I'm going to let these settle overnight and cure. My plan for tomorrow is to weld these guys on and use the matte black enamel to color over frame and mounting plate after the weld job's completed.

[shawnathan9]

The paint still feels like it's not 100% cured but enough to handle it now.

So, the BAMF rock sliders had some unwelded seams, on the inner channel that were not covered by the primer or paint. In retrospect, I should have added a weld there because the area appears to be prone for water accumulation since the drain holes were not close enough to it

I either strip, weld, and repaint this area or I McGyver it with some gasket sealer. I chose the later:


It's in a discrete area not visible when installed so I did some backyard repairs there. I really think it's a flaw that would've else wise caused rust in the future.

After that, I wire brushed, to bare metal, both the area of the frame and the outer areas of the mount plates; Tack welded the slider in a position that would provide the most wheel clearance:


And through the wizardry of welding, on goes the them Sliders, with a kick!






I should have checked door clearance when test fitting as, after I painted over the welds, I attempted to open my rear door and noticed that they wouldn't open...



It appears that because I have Limitied trim that the flare on the bottom of the rear doors would hit the sliders that tilt 10 degrees upward.

So I did what anyone who just welded on some sliders would do and busted out my trusty dremel and shaved of a few centimeters of fender flare

It was a unnoticeable trim that worked out perfectly.


Can I get a Hell yeah!?!? The Matte Metallic Gun Metal gray has a sheen that works perfectly with my silver cladding.


I saved $200 just by painting them myself and about $300 for the prep and weld work I did on my own. That itself pays for the welder I picked up.

Now I've got to start hunting for some metal scraps and pipes to eventually craft a roof rack together.

[shawnathan9]

I've had these sitting around for a while and decided that my welding skills are decent enough to create a weld good enough, good penetration, to work on some structural welds.

So, I pulled out my Eimkeith PCK that have been sitting on my shelf for the past 2 months.

The Panhard bar was really easy to unbolt and remove; began to test fit the parts and everything looked good:


Still, I feel that my welds could use some work so I not only welded the outer seams but also the inner seams of the PCK so as to ensure that the gaps were closed; Didn't want to crawl into that space to show you the inner welds but here's the right side: I got a little ugly in the middle but I'll settle since I had the other side covered as well:


The driver side, I took a second pass on the outside and just one pass on the inner end of the bracket; The welds look thick but they did penetrate well:


I'll be doing spot checks every gas fill to see how well my welds hold but I'm confident enough about it. The rear end does feel much for static and feels really good when taking corners. I just hit the freeway and it doesn't feel squirrely, at the rear, when driving fast.

I can't believe I waited this long to put them on. What a difference!