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Old 07-21-2022, 07:59 PM #76
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I would try tapping a thin/flexible/narrow putty knife between the housing and 3rd member. A 1.5-2” flexible drywall knife would be perfect in my opinion. Shouldn’t damage the mating surfaces either.
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Old 07-21-2022, 08:24 PM #77
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Try to use a bee hive tool. They have another name. I send a photo of it.

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Old 07-21-2022, 09:47 PM #78
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It looks like this. I can't recall it's other name.



Amazon.com : WEICHUAN 2PCS Stainless Steel Hive Scraper Tools - Beekeeping Equipment Bee Hive Hand Tool Beekeeper Tool : Patio, Lawn & Garden

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Old 07-22-2022, 02:30 AM #79
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Are you trying to separate the 3rd member by pulling up while the axle housing is on the ground?
Try using gravity as a tool. Put the housing on the jack stands with the 3rd member pointing to the ground. Break the mating seal with a flat blade without scoring the mating surface too much.
The 3rd member should separate from the axle after giving it a wiggle with some downward pressure.
It one of those tight fitting parts. Pulling at the less than optimal angle it gets dragged on the studs hanging it up.
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Old 07-22-2022, 10:09 AM #80
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I hope its not rusted in which I really doubt as my tetanus 1 3rd member came right out with a little convincing. As it's axle housing was extremely rough.. :/

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Old 07-22-2022, 10:21 AM #81
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Swapping 3rds was by far the hardest part of my elocker swap, and that includes getting the complete axle out of the back of my truck, by myself.
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Old 07-22-2022, 10:53 AM #82
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Ol' Ruby build thread

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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I hope its not rusted in which I really doubt as my tetanus 1 3rd member came right out with a little convincing. As it's axle housing was extremely rough.. :/

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Yeah it only looks like surface rust so I doubt it’s rusted shut. I guess there is some rust around the studs, but that FIPG is strong! I’ve got those beehive tools on the way, and I’ll do as @Bad Luck suggested and try a drywall knife as well. And I’ll reposition it like @HiLife said.

I’ve been a little timid with the map torch since the e-locker stuff is all just right there… I’d hate to fry the electronics!
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Old 07-22-2022, 03:46 PM #83
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Those tools come in handy for a pile of projects. I use mine alot.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html

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Old 07-23-2022, 10:31 AM #84
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Hang it upside down on jackstands and tap around the flange with a 3# sledge and brass drift, the 3rd member will fall off (unless it's glued in) as long as the axles are out

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Old 07-28-2022, 10:38 PM #85
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Ol' Ruby build thread

Success!! Thanks everyone for the helpful tips. Ended up taking another 4 hours or so, but it finally opened up and the gears look decent. The whole job was getting hung up on the long studs that go through the locker all the way to the housing.

Now to test the locker actuator…







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Old 08-14-2022, 06:19 PM #86
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Ol' Ruby build thread

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Now to test the locker actuator…
Locker actuator motor works! And locker shift fork works too. Woohoo!

Now, I opened up the fill and drain plugs on the matching 4.30 front diff that’s also in my garage.

Any thoughts on the amount of magnetic sludge on the drain plug magnet?

Normal amount of magnetic sludge?

(Last photo is me picking up the sludge covered rag with a magnet)





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Old 08-14-2022, 06:39 PM #87
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Any chunks/grit or it’s gut metallic sludge?
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Old 08-14-2022, 07:35 PM #88
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Any chunks/grit or it’s gut metallic sludge?

I’d say it’s very fine and homogeneous metallic sludge. No chunks or larger grit particles.
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Old 08-14-2022, 07:53 PM #89
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I’d say it’s very fine and homogeneous metallic sludge. No chunks or larger grit particles.
Probably just went to long between fluid changes. That’s about what I would expect for 80k-100k mile diff fluid. Obviously not ideal, but nothing I’d be too worried about. Might change the diff fluid again after 500-1000 miles on it if you want to be extra cautious.
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Old 08-15-2022, 12:11 AM #90
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Quote:
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Probably just went to long between fluid changes. That’s about what I would expect for 80k-100k mile diff fluid. Obviously not ideal, but nothing I’d be too worried about. Might change the diff fluid again after 500-1000 miles on it if you want to be extra cautious.
I was going to suggest the same. If you can give everything a good rinse with brake cleaner or in a solvent tank before install you'll probably get more crap out.

I have a 4.88 3rd member I'm going to rinse before installing just because.

Good work!

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