02-21-2021, 06:31 PM
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#16
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thats 100% bs, no way. I mean it takes that longer than that to get all the pullys and radiator and shit off.
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02-21-2021, 06:44 PM
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#17
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I'd like to see the video of someone doing this in 45min, even if it's brand new or just assembled and then this job was redone I don't think this is possible, a engine on a stand and not doing the water pump and accessories it sure is possible, and that's where this 45min tbelt fantasy job is coming from, otherwise impossible on a used motor with other related components that need to come off and back on and drive down the road. And then like said throw in a stuck harmonic balancer and you can forget that pipe dream.
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99' Ltd E-locker grey wired, 4R Bilstein 5100, 99 tall coils, 906 OME & 1.5" spacers, 2015 4R Trail Edition 275/70R17, 1" RB BL
97' SR5 E-locker grey wired, Warn winch, 2" RB BL, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift, dual battery, 1000W inverter, Hydraulic Arctic plow, 12" x 33" Baja Claw
92' Eclipse GSX AWD 6/4 bolt combo, 28 PSI boost, Meth injection, 750cc injectors, FMIC, 2.5" IC piping, full 3" exhaust, 350AWHP, lowered, Alum flywheel, 6 puck Clutch, Cams, JDM gear set,VC rear diff, EPROM ECU
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02-21-2021, 06:50 PM
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#18
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Double post
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99' Ltd E-locker grey wired, 4R Bilstein 5100, 99 tall coils, 906 OME & 1.5" spacers, 2015 4R Trail Edition 275/70R17, 1" RB BL
97' SR5 E-locker grey wired, Warn winch, 2" RB BL, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift, dual battery, 1000W inverter, Hydraulic Arctic plow, 12" x 33" Baja Claw
92' Eclipse GSX AWD 6/4 bolt combo, 28 PSI boost, Meth injection, 750cc injectors, FMIC, 2.5" IC piping, full 3" exhaust, 350AWHP, lowered, Alum flywheel, 6 puck Clutch, Cams, JDM gear set,VC rear diff, EPROM ECU
Last edited by Malcolm99; 02-21-2021 at 09:59 PM.
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02-22-2021, 02:21 PM
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#19
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Its a 45 minute job with the engine on a stand... A couple small electric impacts and plenty of clearance would make it easy.
Basically this is easy:
And this is a giant pain by comparison:
-Charlie
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02-22-2021, 05:51 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
First time - 8hrs
Second- 5hrs
Third- about the same.
Personally unless I am working at flat rate, which I don’t in my profession, time wouldn’t matter to me on this job. To get all the bubbles out of the coolant system correctly is a fifteen to twenty minute job unto itself.
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With an air lift type tool it's a 5 min procedure....
I think I had a total of about 4 hours into my first one (2nd doesn't count as it was on an engine stand). If I were to do it again and again I could probably get it down to an hour and a half to an hour- and I'm not a professional mechanic.
As an example of experience- for a first gen MR2 I could drive one into the garage and have the engine/transmission out completely in 90 minutes. I could get it back in around the same time. (I had an old time lapse years ago). Most people who have these it is a weekend project and most mechanics don't even want to touch them.
Last edited by toyotaspeed90; 02-22-2021 at 05:55 PM.
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02-22-2021, 06:48 PM
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#21
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^ I'd like to see the 1hr tbelt job on a 5vz-Fe from key off to key on video, even without a water pump and no crank and cams seals or problems along the way I think this would be quite the achievement done at the tbelt change interval, and then lets throw in a vehicle that sees winter conditions, it's just not realistic.
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99' Ltd E-locker grey wired, 4R Bilstein 5100, 99 tall coils, 906 OME & 1.5" spacers, 2015 4R Trail Edition 275/70R17, 1" RB BL
97' SR5 E-locker grey wired, Warn winch, 2" RB BL, Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift, dual battery, 1000W inverter, Hydraulic Arctic plow, 12" x 33" Baja Claw
92' Eclipse GSX AWD 6/4 bolt combo, 28 PSI boost, Meth injection, 750cc injectors, FMIC, 2.5" IC piping, full 3" exhaust, 350AWHP, lowered, Alum flywheel, 6 puck Clutch, Cams, JDM gear set,VC rear diff, EPROM ECU
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02-24-2021, 06:24 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malcolm99
^ I'd like to see the 1hr tbelt job on a 5vz-Fe from key off to key on video, even without a water pump and no crank and cams seals or problems along the way I think this would be quite the achievement done at the tbelt change interval, and then lets throw in a vehicle that sees winter conditions, it's just not realistic.
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I haven't done the job enough on a 5vzfe to get it down in time personally, and I probably never will.
My point is that for those who know where every bolt is, and size, best way to reach them, and there aren't any odd seizing issues, it's plausible it could be done. The MR2 was an example of, myself, having the extensive knowledge via experience to do what others claim isn't possible in a short period of time. I haven't had an MR2 in 6 years yet I could probably still pull the motor/trans in about 90 minutes.
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03-06-2021, 05:17 PM
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#23
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Did it today
Took me 3 hrs start to finish
I did not try to haul ass through it, and I have done these before. Wasnt trying to race anyone.
Just for future reference
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03-07-2021, 12:10 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog-guy707
Did it today
Took me 3 hrs start to finish
I did not try to haul ass through it, and I have done these before. Wasnt trying to race anyone.
Just for future reference
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How do you remove the belt tensioner?
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03-07-2021, 02:04 PM
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#25
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The tensioner roller is a 10mm Allen socket
The hydraulic tensioner, is a bit tricky
I do not remove the ac compressor
Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket
Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.
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03-07-2021, 02:49 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog-guy707
The tensioner roller is a 10mm Allen socket
The hydraulic tensioner, is a bit tricky
I do not remove the ac compressor
Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket
Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.
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That saves major time. I never figured out the angle
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03-07-2021, 09:17 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5
That saves major time. I never figured out the angle
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Taping up the swivel makes it easier as your sockets not flopping around and you can direct it to the bolt
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03-07-2021, 10:46 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snydmax
Taping up the swivel makes it easier as your sockets not flopping around and you can direct it to the bolt
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This! Facts
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03-08-2021, 02:03 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smog-guy707
I do not remove the ac compressor
Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket
Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.
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A previous mechanic had put in a non-stock bolt on 1/2 of the tensioner bolts and I couldn't use this trick. That sucked...
(not to mention I don't have any 1/4" extensions!  )
-Charlie
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'99 4Runner SR5 Auto - 4WD swapped
'89 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd
'17 Chevy Volt Premier
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03-08-2021, 06:05 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
A previous mechanic had put in a non-stock bolt on 1/2 of the tensioner bolts and I couldn't use this trick. That sucked...
(not to mention I don't have any 1/4" extensions! )
-Charlie |
I fought the entire way on the 96 and the 97 Puppy Hauler. Rust is the Devils Child.
My 97 project I did it on the engine stand. Sweet!!!! But not worth pulling and engine for. All though I got it down to 4-5 hours. The 96 took me an entire weekend and a trip to the junkyard to replace broken bolts.
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