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Old 03-07-2021, 12:38 PM #1
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3.4L won't start after HG replacement, troubleshooting help!

Howdy all,

I need some outside advice for troubleshooting before I rush into anything stupid. 3.4L 5vzfe motor swapped into a 92 4runner using ORS harness. Ran great strong two weeks ago but busted HG, so I tore down and replaced HG, timing belt, water pump, tensioner and pulleys. Followed WorseThanChiggers video series.

Much to my wife's chagrin I finally finished buttoning everything back up after a HG replacement at 1am last night, and the truck wouldn't fire up.

It is cranking strong, and I did squirt some starter fluid into the intake, after which it caught briefly but didn't start.

No OBDII codes anymore (I did find I hadn't connected TPS, but once I did the code went away).

I cranked it for a solid couple minutes. Stopped because it was late and I didn't have anyone to feed starter fluid while I cranked. Battery still had 12.5v when I quite (charged last night so it will be fresh today). Thinking the fuel rail ran dry while I had it disconnected for a week. My research shows that the fuel pump doesn't prime unless you are cranking, right?

My question is, what are the first steps I should take in troubleshooting? I'm thinking if I can get the wife to help I can have her crank while spraying starter fluid, but if that doesn't work then what do I start checking?

Obviously the assembly is suspect, and I plan to review visually what I can, and mentally everything else now that I am fresh, I know I set the timing correctly I am looking for advice on things like how to check fuel presence, check for spark, etc. Anything obvious I may not know about. Many thanks for your input!
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Old 03-07-2021, 01:51 PM #2
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Be sure the small ground wire on the driver side of the intake is connected. 10mm bolt. Itís easy to miss and gives your symptom.
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Old 03-07-2021, 02:31 PM #3
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Running briefly with a shot of starter fluid was a huge hint in where the issue may be.
I would make sure the injectors are getting the voltage/signal to fire. I would also check to make sure the rail is getting fuel. It's hard but, also checking if the fuel is at the right pressure 38-44psi e.o.k.o.
Make sure the vacuum fuel regulator has vacuum and the bellows in the regulator isn't ripped sending raw through the hose.
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Old 03-07-2021, 02:47 PM #4
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Also make sure you plugged in all your sensors. Crank-Cam-IAC-MAF.

You can pull a plug and see who wet it is also.

Make sure all the cam and crank timing marks line up. Itís easy to put on the belt and have it look good and then release the tensioner and find you were off a tooth somewhere.


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Old 03-07-2021, 02:59 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Reak Show View Post
Be sure the small ground wire on the driver side of the intake is connected. 10mm bolt. Itís easy to miss and gives your symptom.
The one off the wire harness for the diagnostic port, right? And it just grounds onto the intake? Got that one for sure.
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Old 03-07-2021, 03:02 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Also make sure you plugged in all your sensors. Crank-Cam-IAC-MAF.

You can pull a plug and see who wet it is also.

Make sure all the cam and crank timing marks line up. Itís easy to put on the belt and have it look good and then release the tensioner and find you were off a tooth somewhere.


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Wet plug = good because fuel in cylinder, right?

Yeah I spent about an hour triple checking the belt timing because it's a nightmare to get back in there. Unless I hallucinated from lack of sleep that's not it, but may go back and check if I don't find a smoking gun quickly
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Old 03-07-2021, 03:05 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
Running briefly with a shot of starter fluid was a huge hint in where the issue may be.
I would make sure the injectors are getting the voltage/signal to fire. I would also check to make sure the rail is getting fuel. It's hard but, also checking if the fuel is at the right pressure 38-44psi e.o.k.o.
Make sure the vacuum fuel regulator has vacuum and the bellows in the regulator isn't ripped sending raw through the hose.
To check injector signal, just use a multi-meter while cranking?

For fuel rail, can I just crack one of the front banjo bolts to check presence of fuel? Such a pain there is no stock pressure read port, that's gonna be a future mod but have not found a simple method to check in my research.

Will check the vacuum regulator. Can do that by just pulling of the vacuum line to intake while cranking right? I don't know how it would have been damaged but all things are possible while swinging wrenches around in an engine bay I spose.
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Old 03-07-2021, 06:21 PM #8
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3.4L won't start after HG replacement, troubleshooting help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnybravo9 View Post
Wet plug = good because fuel in cylinder, right?

Yeah I spent about an hour triple checking the belt timing because it's a nightmare to get back in there. Unless I hallucinated from lack of sleep that's not it, but may go back and check if I don't find a smoking gun quickly

For the crank pull the lower cover and use the dot on the crank pulley not the mark on the harmonic balancer in other words donít just pull the top cover off to look at the cam marks and use the harmonic balancer mark for TDC.

Yes wet plug equals fuel in cylinder. You must have spark also or it wouldnít try.


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Old 03-08-2021, 12:32 AM #9
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Fixed!!!!

GUYS!!!! GREAT NEWS!!!! I'm an idiot!!!!

Didn't plug in the crank angle sensor last night. At least I think that's what it is, plugs in to left just behind harmonic balancer, pigtailed with the oil idiot sensor connector). Plugged that in, it turned over once and then fired.

Holy smokes! I have never been so happy about something so dumb. My only excuse is, whoever did this swap didn't clean up the old harness, so there are unused connectors from the old 3.0 engine laying around everywhere in the engine bay.

Drove it around about 5 miles, runs just as good as it did before. Idle is a little high, drops down if you blip the throttle. So much clean up to do, but the power plant is solid now!

Any advice on oil and coolant flush? I did as much of a pressure flush as possible while the thermostat was out, plan to cycle it until clear then convert to red (somebody filled it with green )

So excited, going to start a build thread now and make it GOOD!!!

Thanks for the tips and pointers.
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Old 03-08-2021, 11:08 AM #10
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Old 03-08-2021, 12:39 PM #11
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You can buy engine oil flush and rad flush, all 1996 to early 1999 or 1998 came with ethylene glycol, according to the book it says 1996-2000 ethylene glycol and 2001-2002 Toyota long life and the only difference between these engines to justify the change is the throttle body and SS rear heater core lines?, so either coolant will work just fine.
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Old 03-08-2021, 12:48 PM #12
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19963.4lsr5 called it. Lesson is, never overlook the obvious.
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Old 03-09-2021, 10:19 PM #13
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Quote:
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You can buy engine oil flush and rad flush, all 1996 to early 1999 or 1998 came with ethylene glycol, according to the book it says 1996-2000 ethylene glycol and 2001-2002 Toyota long life and the only difference between these engines to justify the change is the throttle body and SS rear heater core lines?, so either coolant will work just fine.
Interesting. I do have the throttle body line. It would be nice to not have to worry about special coolant when out in the boonies. Maybe i'll just go with e.g. then.
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