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Old 03-16-2021, 12:56 PM #16
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can a rad cap with a 3psi difference make a difference. Reason I ask is I just looked at the rad cap and it says 16psi......yet I have seen in print that we should be running a 13psi cap

wonder if Napa sold me the wrong one, cause i just went to thier site and it also lists 13psi for the yota.
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Old 03-16-2021, 01:19 PM #17
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collapsing top hose

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
can a rad cap with a 3psi difference make a difference. Reason I ask is I just looked at the rad cap and it says 16psi......yet I have seen in print that we should be running a 13psi cap

wonder if Napa sold me the wrong one, cause i just went to thier site and it also lists 13psi for the yota.

Is there a black center in the bottom of the cap? It needs to be a vented cap.

I can walk out and take a picture of my napa cap. Either the cap is bad or it’s the wrong one or your line or inlet at the tank is plugged with dirt.

Balkamp BK 7031728 13psi/.9bar





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Last edited by 19963.4lsr5; 03-16-2021 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 03-16-2021, 03:18 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
can a rad cap with a 3psi difference make a difference. Reason I ask is I just looked at the rad cap and it says 16psi......yet I have seen in print that we should be running a 13psi cap

wonder if Napa sold me the wrong one, cause i just went to thier site and it also lists 13psi for the yota.
I'm not sure what too high a pressure cap would do but you're right that it should be 13psi.
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Old 03-16-2021, 05:58 PM #19
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I'm not sure what too high a pressure cap would do but you're right that it should be 13psi.
It puts more pressure on the hoses, etc. and may lead to leaks. Otherwise, it is all good - it also increases the temperature at which the cooling system will boil, which helps keep the motor safe when pushed hard.

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Old 03-17-2021, 01:46 AM #20
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got a rad cap at dealer, no difference after engine cooled
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Old 03-17-2021, 06:07 AM #21
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collapsing top hose

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got a rad cap at dealer, no difference after engine cooled

Try blowing air through the hose into the overflow cap. Make sure it is clear.

And make sure the nipple at the rad cap is not plugged with junk.


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Old 03-17-2021, 11:30 AM #22
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I would do what 19963.4lsr5 mentioned above.
Also, it might be time for a new hose as it's unknown how long it's been doing the vac condition and may have weakened it's internal structure.
With the cap off, is it easy/flimsy to pinch the hose? You can try comparing the feel compared to the lower hose or, on a new hose at the auto parts store.

Don't rule out a bad aftermarket radiator. I ran a radiator and cap from Orielly, I was in a pinch and needed the engine running asap. I had issues with coolant not returning to rad. Putting the old cap back on didn't fix it. Only a new Denso radiator fixed it.
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:28 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Try blowing air through the hose into the overflow cap. Make sure it is clear.

And make sure the nipple at the rad cap is not plugged with junk.


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yep, both of those hoses are new and nipple not plugged. new "toyota" hose on order should be here anyday
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Old 03-17-2021, 01:33 PM #24
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If the 4Runner was badly neglected and being in Alaska the hose may just be worn out. How is the heat in the 4Runner? I have seen an upper hose collapsed due to a semi faulty thermostat.
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Old 03-17-2021, 01:52 PM #25
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yep, both of those hoses are new and nipple not plugged. new "toyota" hose on order should be here anyday

Unless that upper hose is shot and weak.....it’s worth a shot replacing the hose to the tank.


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Old 03-18-2021, 02:48 AM #26
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Unless that upper hose is shot and weak.....it’s worth a shot replacing the hose to the tank.


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the new upper hose came in and is now installed, so we will see after it runs and cools tomorrow.. I replaced the hose to the tank and the hose in the tank weeks ago, as when I got it the in tank hose was a piece of fuel line and a hose clamp, which would not allow the cap to fit correctly on the overflow, so the cap was electrical taped on....it was pretty neglected and full of half ass repairs.
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Old 03-18-2021, 11:35 AM #27
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It is not necessary to have the over flow tank cap to fit snug. Just make sure the bottom of the hose inside the over flow tank is in coolant.

My Land Cruiser has a higher PSI rating on the radiator cap and it is OEM. Just to keep coolant form boiling and to reach high temperatures.
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Old 03-18-2021, 01:07 PM #28
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It is not necessary to have the over flow tank cap to fit snug. Just make sure the bottom of the hose inside the over flow tank is in coolant.

My Land Cruiser has a higher PSI rating on the radiator cap and it is OEM. Just to keep coolant form boiling and to reach high temperatures.

true, but having electrical tape holding it on just really bugged me, plus the only way to add fluid would have been to cut off the electrical tape, I know they dont have to fit tight as they are not under pressure.
Maybe the 3 psi difference on the rad cap does not make much of a difference, but I was trying everything to get it right.
thanks
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Old 03-19-2021, 01:23 PM #29
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well new top hose is not sucking in as much as the old aftermarket one was. So maybe its just newer and firmer. or maybe it is solved....i will just keep my eye on it . New timing belt, pump, thermostat and radiator will be this summer.

so to rehash....replace top hose, steeler rad cap, hose from rad to overflow, hose in overflow, made sure all nipples were clear ( no plugs)


thanks to everyone for your help
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:38 PM #30
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thermostat valve 180 degrees out of line, or stuck?
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