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Old 05-13-2021, 02:08 PM #31
DPenner DPenner is offline
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Check out Absalom's list of different builds and figure out where you want to go with it and then work your way down the list starting with the maintenance items. If I was more tech savvy, I could post a link. Sorry.
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:23 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPenner View Post
Check out Absalom's list of different builds and figure out where you want to go with it and then work your way down the list starting with the maintenance items. If I was more tech savvy, I could post a link. Sorry.
I got you: Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

I'd add to his list: if you're going with a lift that is 2" or higher than stock ride height, add @eimkeith 's Panhard Correction Kit, and consider longer sway bar end links.
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:42 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatofries View Post
Yes that's what I meant. Thank you for clarifying. Will look into the extended end links.
I believe the intent of extended links is to have the swaybar arms as close to parallel to the ground when the vehicle is at rest. I know that to be the case for performance car applications and don't see why it would be different for the T4R. Obviously you also do not want binding or unnecessary forces when the suspension is at full droop/compression. Full droop is more likely than full compression.

I'm running OME 881/890 and ran the MStudt end links for sale on here. Good pieces though the OEM 3rd gen/2nd gen combo discussed is likely cheaper. Two other notes on the lift is the diff drop which is debated on here frequently and extending the rear brake lines/bracket. The shop that installed mine just added an extension to where the center brake line meets the rear axle housing. It essentially just extends the bracket an inch or two higher to not stress the line at full droop.

As to your other maintenance items, I'd want to know if that clunking is a swaybar or something else. I agree that swaybars and their end links make more noise than you'd expect if they're just slightly loose. However, I'd want to know if my LBJ has any play or anything else. For LBJ's, I can't believe I'm saying this, but I'd buy them from a dealer to make sure you don't get ripped off. There's been threads here and elsewhere about fake OEM parts becoming more and more prominent. An LBJ could cost you your rig and/or your life.

The radiator replacement is usually done to prevent the pink milkshake from destroying the transmission. Also pretty key but won't kill you.
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Old 05-14-2021, 11:42 AM #34
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Originally Posted by Jubsz View Post
The shop that installed mine just added an extension to where the center brake line meets the rear axle housing. It essentially just extends the bracket an inch or two higher to not stress the line at full droop.

Would you be able to post a photo of the extended brake line bracket? I'd like to make something like that (unless there is something reasonable available from a US fab shop). Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2021, 01:47 PM #35
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Ordered the LBJs from a Toyota dealer. Should be here soon. OME shocks and springs due to arrive shortly.

Had a failed smog test which took some of my time. Was Cat monitor not ready (all emissions were fine). Had driven about 200 miles since battery disconnect so was surprised monitor wasn't ready. Decided to try Cataclean and followed the instructions. Literally 15 miles later my OBD says Cat monitor is ready. Could just be coincidence, but I'm pretty shocked.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:46 PM #36
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The lift kit should be at the bottom of your priority list

You will get the most utility out of the rack/tires etc if you aren't planning on wheeling it in the near term and want it for camping
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