03-23-2021, 08:32 PM
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#16
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Hey guys, so since I’m still missing my turn signals I went ahead and ordered some SRQ Fabrications filler panel LED turn signals a few days ago. I got them today and wired one of them up (the left side needs some clever ingenuity to mount it evenly because of the impact)
anyways, I turned on my hazards and the rear lights blink regularly, but the LEDs I installed flicker randomly and don’t get fully bright. I do have the LED Relay, which i’m going to try to install now, but before I take my lower dash apart to get to it, is there something obvious I’m missing? I just wired the lights up directly, red to white, and black to green.
I don’t need to have all 4 turn signals be LED, do I?
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1997 4x4 SR5 3" Lift @254,000 miles
I welded my own bumper!
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03-23-2021, 08:58 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfemery
Hey guys, so since I’m still missing my turn signals I went ahead and ordered some SRQ Fabrications filler panel LED turn signals a few days ago. I got them today and wired one of them up (the left side needs some clever ingenuity to mount it evenly because of the impact)
anyways, I turned on my hazards and the rear lights blink regularly, but the LEDs I installed flicker randomly and don’t get fully bright. I do have the LED Relay, which i’m going to try to install now, but before I take my lower dash apart to get to it, is there something obvious I’m missing? I just wired the lights up directly, red to white, and black to green.
I don’t need to have all 4 turn signals be LED, do I?
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I too have their filler panel lights (really like them tbh) and it should be as simple as that. Try the relay first, even they warn against hyperflash with stock relays. If it still persists check your connections, cause you obviously got them right; they'd just be a little loose or something
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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03-23-2021, 09:20 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
I too have their filler panel lights (really like them tbh) and it should be as simple as that. Try the relay first, even they warn against hyperflash with stock relays. If it still persists check your connections, cause you obviously got them right; they'd just be a little loose or something
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I just swapped the relay. They blink slower but still they’re almost completely dull. I can see them barely flicker and it’s dark out... I thought I did my connections as solid as I could with just twisting them and wrapping well with electrical tape.
I’ll grab some real connectors from walmart real quick and redo them.
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03-23-2021, 10:46 PM
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#19
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just redid the connections and they still don’t work... wtf
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03-23-2021, 11:59 PM
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#20
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Oh wait I read that wrong. If I recall the green wire should be positive, when I did this I think I remember being told white/black is the negative lead on these vehicles the majority of the time
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Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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03-24-2021, 12:06 AM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot
Oh wait I read that wrong. If I recall the green wire should be positive, when I did this I think I remember being told white/black is the negative lead on these vehicles the majority of the time
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doh.
worked on american cars where green was ground. Even googled it to make sure beforehand. guess that’s not the case in japan. will fix in the morning
EDIT:
JK, couldn’t resist just finishing them up tonight, they look good. Very bright. Thanks for catching that.
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I welded my own bumper!
Last edited by wtfemery; 03-24-2021 at 12:46 AM.
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03-24-2021, 12:11 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfemery
doh.
worked on american cars where green was ground. Even googled it to make sure beforehand. guess that’s not the case in japan. will fix in the morning
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If my memory serves me right, another way to check is comparing both sides directly as the positive lead is actually different colors between the left and right turn signals but the ground is the same color
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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04-10-2021, 12:43 AM
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#23
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So I got my bumper today and I went to start tacking it together and realized the bracket that bolts to the frame doesn't fit at all. I was assuming the brackets would bolt directly to the frame rails, but, well just look at the photos. Perhaps they intend you to just bolt it to the bumper brackets? but the holes don't line up to those really either. I emailed the company but they wont be open till Monday. Really wanted to get this done this weekend but literally the first step is holding me up.
How did you guys mount your steel bumpers?
I think I could make an L or U shaped bracket to bolt to the frame rails (obv need to grind the rails down so the lip isn't in the way) and then weld the provided bracket to that. Or, perhaps I could simply weld a flat plate to the end of the frame rails that's wide/tall enough to bolt to the provided bracket.
My tools are pretty limited... basically just hand tools, angle grinder, drill, welder, some misc things.
This bumper will likely stay for the rest of the truck's life, and with the existing damage to the bumper brackets and right frame end cap, I'm not THAT worried about modifying the ends of the frame rails. This is actually one of the reasons I didn't go with a bolt-on kit, because I knew it probably wouldn't fit exactly right with the damage I have anyways, especially if it was intended to bolt to where the stock bumper bolted, not the frame rails.
I honestly think the big flat plate on the ends of the frame rails would be the easiest route in terms of my abilities/tools. L bracket would be a bit harder.
PICS:
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04-10-2021, 10:00 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfemery
So I got my bumper today and I went to start tacking it together and realized the bracket that bolts to the frame doesn't fit at all. I was assuming the brackets would bolt directly to the frame rails, but, well just look at the photos. Perhaps they intend you to just bolt it to the bumper brackets? but the holes don't line up to those really either. I emailed the company but they wont be open till Monday. Really wanted to get this done this weekend but literally the first step is holding me up.
How did you guys mount your steel bumpers?
I think I could make an L or U shaped bracket to bolt to the frame rails (obv need to grind the rails down so the lip isn't in the way) and then weld the provided bracket to that. Or, perhaps I could simply weld a flat plate to the end of the frame rails that's wide/tall enough to bolt to the provided bracket.
My tools are pretty limited... basically just hand tools, angle grinder, drill, welder, some misc things.
This bumper will likely stay for the rest of the truck's life, and with the existing damage to the bumper brackets and right frame end cap, I'm not THAT worried about modifying the ends of the frame rails. This is actually one of the reasons I didn't go with a bolt-on kit, because I knew it probably wouldn't fit exactly right with the damage I have anyways, especially if it was intended to bolt to where the stock bumper bolted, not the frame rails.
I honestly think the big flat plate on the ends of the frame rails would be the easiest route in terms of my abilities/tools. L bracket would be a bit harder.
PICS:
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Time for some YouTube/google research time young grasshoppa 😆
Go to 7:35 in Timmy’s video. They’re all like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wey2f8n0Klc&feature=youtu.be
Break out that grinder. I haven’t seen a single steel bumper that doesn’t require you to cut the frame ends off and then weld the company specific ends to the open frame ends.
Contact the company before you cut anything but I feel pretty certain that’s how you’ll have to go about this.
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04-10-2021, 12:57 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vansnxtweek
Time for some YouTube/google research time young grasshoppa 😆
Go to 7:35 in Timmy’s video. They’re all like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wey2f8n0Klc&feature=youtu.be
Break out that grinder. I haven’t seen a single steel bumper that doesn’t require you to cut the frame ends off and then weld the company specific ends to the open frame ends.
Contact the company before you cut anything but I feel pretty certain that’s how you’ll have to go about this.
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What the heck. I guess the earlier 3rd gens and the later “fat lip” 3rd gens have different frame ends. If my stock mounts looked like Tim’s, then It’d be a direct bolt-on. But I guess since I have the earlier 3rd gen without the “crush bar” behind the bumper, I don’t have those nice big mounts on the ends of the frame.
So I guess that answers my confusion. Out comes the angle grinder then. Will update soon.
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04-10-2021, 01:15 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfemery
What the heck. I guess the earlier 3rd gens and the later “fat lip” 3rd gens have different frame ends. If my stock mounts looked like Tim’s, then It’d be a direct bolt-on. But I guess since I have the earlier 3rd gen without the “crush bar” behind the bumper, I don’t have those nice big mounts on the ends of the frame.
So I guess that answers my confusion. Out comes the angle grinder then. Will update soon.
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Fwiw I believe you're correct, I think I remember hearing it was changed at some point
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Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
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04-10-2021, 01:15 PM
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#27
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I was just gonna suggest that it looks like the ARB setup... beat me to it
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04-10-2021, 04:23 PM
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#28
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i’ve got the end caps hacked off, anyone have a technique for lining up the plate/holes in the general correct place? I guess I have some wiggle room since i’m welding the bumper brackets myself but ideally I’d like them in the perfect spots...
should the plate be centered on the frame rails (Pic 1) or should the bottom inner bolt holes be centered on the frame rail and the other two holes be towards the outside and up? (pic 2)
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
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04-10-2021, 07:12 PM
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#29
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got the pieces I’m going to weld to the frame made. On top is the included brackets, on bottom is the pieces I made that will be welded to the ends of the frame rails.
Judge me on my welds as much as you like, But i’d just like to add that since I had to cut the piece in half I got to see the weld penetration and it’s actually very good.
I have some wiggle room with these brackets with the way the bumper mounts to them, so as long as I’m within an inch in any direction, they will work fine.
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04-10-2021, 10:58 PM
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#30
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Hardest part is done! Calling it a night. Have to drive home @3 tomorrow so hopefully I can get it done before then.
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