03-29-2021, 09:12 AM
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#1
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Location: Pennsylvania
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Manual Trans No Start No Crank
Hoping you guys can help me troubleshoot, did some searching but wasn't able to find my answer yet.
The rig- '99 SR5 5 speed manual w/ e locker- 170kish miles, all stock.
Problem started a week ago, is becoming more frequent. All manual 3rd gen drivers know how sensitive these are when starting for the pedal to be completely depressed in order to start- very sensitive switch. If not pushed completely to the floor they aren't starting.
Recently I have been going to start and experiencing very similar symptoms to the pedal not being fully depressed. Click but no crank. Initially I thought the pedal wasn't being depressed, maybe something was jamming it, or the switch itself was beginning to go bad. No problem, I can press the clutch start cancel button and bypass... no luck.
So now its not starting with the clutch depressed or with the rig in neutral and the clutch cancel feature turned on. I'm finding that the longer it sits (overnight or for a few hours) the more attempts it takes for it to finally engage and start. It has not left me stranded yet but this morning took maybe a dozen turns of the key to finally start. Battery voltage is good and alternator is charging. If it sits for only a few minutes it seems to start up again on the first turn of the key.
Anyone have a similar experience? Maybe it is indeed linked to the clutch switch? Ignition? Starter? Next steps for troubleshooting? Appreciate any insight.
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03-29-2021, 09:25 AM
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#2
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Original starter? Have you considered it could be the starter contacts? It sounds from your description like a classic case.
Do a bit of reading about it. Nice thing is, it’s a cheap and easy thing to try.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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03-29-2021, 09:29 AM
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#3
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And about the clutch switch positioning. You can put a cupboard door self stick rubber bumper ( about 1/8 inch thick, 1/2 inch dia.) on the part of the pedal that pushes the switch.
This will raise the contact point up out of the carpet. The switch has enough range of motion that nothing will bottom out.
That’s a really cheap easy fix. Mine has been in for years.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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03-29-2021, 09:32 AM
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#4
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Thanks Kanoe, the symptoms were so similar to the clutch switch my mind first jumped there, definitely could be the starter. I'll have to look back through my records but I believe it is original.
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03-29-2021, 11:00 AM
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#5
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The starter contacts go out on all of them eventually. Could be it. I've replaced them on 2 toyota starters in 2 different cars now. The starters are generally a life of the vehicle part so try to keep the starter, just rebuild the contacts.
Try the sticky pad trick, you'll love it.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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03-30-2021, 12:17 PM
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#6
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great, thanks again. Question as I've never done a starter, if I were to replace the entire unit am I replacing the contacts as well? Or are they separate?
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03-30-2021, 05:47 PM
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#7
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Contacts are inside the starter. Starter contacts are the one that fail so best is replacing the contacts and plunger as a kit. There is an ebay seller in El Paso TX who sells good kits.
Some 4runners have a hard time getting the starter out of the engine bay due to it's location (V6) mine did too, so it was easy for me to just replace the contacts from the opening on front pass side. Had to remove wheel, support the truck on jack stands and remove the splash shield that separates engine from wheel well. First Disconnect the battery.
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03-30-2021, 10:12 PM
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#8
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we had a subi do exactly this, and we went through lots of things (battery, spark plug wires, relays, etc.) and should have just replaced the stupid 20-year-old starter (which it turned out to be).
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing
'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams
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03-31-2021, 10:18 AM
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#9
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I'd also recommend replacing the starter contacts. It's been several years since I did this, but I do recall having no problems removing the starter motor. I have a lift though, so that always makes things easier.
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'97 SR5 V6 4x4 | 5-speed | e-locker | 33's
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03-31-2021, 11:00 AM
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#10
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Just don't let your old OEM starter go for core deposit. The OEM one will outlast many parts store starters once it has new contacts put in.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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04-01-2021, 04:11 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
Just don't let your old OEM starter go for core deposit. The OEM one will outlast many parts store starters once it has new contacts put in.
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Had mine into the shop for inspection today, figured I'd have them check out the starter while it was there. Shop says "dead spot" in starter- is this referring to the contacts and plunger or the armature and brushes? Replace just contacts or go with a reman denso replacement? Denso are the oem correct?
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04-01-2021, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdog
Had mine into the shop for inspection today, figured I'd have them check out the starter while it was there. Shop says "dead spot" in starter- is this referring to the contacts and plunger or the armature and brushes? Replace just contacts or go with a reman denso replacement? Denso are the oem correct?
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I think they're talking about the contacts. In which case you should be able to replace the contacts in your current starter and be good to go.
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2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
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12-07-2021, 03:23 AM
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#13
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Starter ID??
So I just bought a hi mileage ‘96 5vze - 5 speed and having starter issues similar to above.
I keep reading I should save/repair the starter vs. buying a replacement, but how do I know its not a cheapie already in place?
Is there a way to I.D. The starter while its in the vehicle?
Thanks
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12-07-2021, 09:31 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hvacman
So I just bought a hi mileage ‘96 5vze - 5 speed and having starter issues similar to above.
I keep reading I should save/repair the starter vs. buying a replacement, but how do I know its not a cheapie already in place?
Is there a way to I.D. The starter while its in the vehicle?
Thanks
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You can see the starter from under the truck or even better through the passenger wheel well (once you remove the wheel and the rearmost fender apron/dust shield). You should be able to see “Denso” somewhere on the starter. Denso is the OEM starter.
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12-08-2021, 11:23 AM
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#15
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Altho this is a starter for a Camry, the identifying stickers designs are the same as for 4Runner starters. One is from oem Toyota starter. The other pic is a rebuilt Denso.
At least you know what to look for now.
And yes, Im keeping and rebuilding the oem with bad contacts, and use as a spare.
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