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Old 04-06-2021, 05:31 PM #1
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Front Lower Control Arm bolts won't stay torqued

Alright, this is driving me insane. I've had like 3 alignments this year, and none of them hold for more than 5 miles or so.

As far as I am aware, the front lower control arm cam bolts just keep coming loose. As soon as they do everything starts creaking and popping and the alignment blows up. I'm running the whiteline bushings, I've no idea if these are the issue but I've no idea what else would cause it.

One thing I noticed though is that...well, how exactly does one torque the rear camber bolts? (Rear position on the front LCA's). None of my torque wenches can fit into that spot due to the power steering rack being in the way. This got me to thinking...what if none of the shops I've been to have a way to torque it? I guess the only way one could do it would be to use a crows foot? Maybe they are just doing it hand tight, which would explain why they don't last long.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? Really running out of ideas here, I feel like the arms are going to fall off at some point...
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Old 04-06-2021, 06:37 PM #2
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I have not done my lower control arm bushings yet but I did get the same bushings just waiting for a weekend to do it. I used to be alignment tech and we never used to use a torque wrench on suspension stuff while doing an alignment. However with those bolts I would go as tight as possible and then some! Maybe even a hammer at the end of your wrench just to get some more turn on it. Usually when they tighten them the suspension is drooped so maybe tighten them more when it is on the ground. Also, I remember I had a comeback one time on a Dodge Durango. Anyways, going as tight as I could with my wrenches on the UCA wasnít good enough and the alignment came loose. Using my big 1/2 snap on ratchet solved that issue! I guess what Iím trying to say is that tight is tight and maybe OEM torque specs are not tight enough for some things.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:22 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
One thing I noticed though is that...well, how exactly does one torque the rear camber bolts? (Rear position on the front LCA's). None of my torque wenches can fit into that spot due to the power steering rack being in the way.
did you check out the video about this by Timmy and Sean? see # 28 and #72.

Code:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217550-3rd-gen-t4r-diy-maintenance-repair-modification-videos.html
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:43 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyler.lewis View Post
I have not done my lower control arm bushings yet but I did get the same bushings just waiting for a weekend to do it. I used to be alignment tech and we never used to use a torque wrench on suspension stuff while doing an alignment. However with those bolts I would go as tight as possible and then some! Maybe even a hammer at the end of your wrench just to get some more turn on it. Usually when they tighten them the suspension is drooped so maybe tighten them more when it is on the ground. Also, I remember I had a comeback one time on a Dodge Durango. Anyways, going as tight as I could with my wrenches on the UCA wasnít good enough and the alignment came loose. Using my big 1/2 snap on ratchet solved that issue! I guess what Iím trying to say is that tight is tight and maybe OEM torque specs are not tight enough for some things.
I appreciate your honesty. I was gonna say before I read your post...ainít nobody doing alignments using a torque wrench,lol. Iím a bit of a torque freak but I can see where itís not super necessary there. Good and tight haha.

For the back ones Iím sure they use a box wrench or adjustable and crank the shhhhh out if it.

Seems like an odd issue man. Hard for me to think how the white line bushings could be to blame. Iím gonna have to ponder.
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Old 04-06-2021, 11:44 PM #5
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locktite?
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Old 04-07-2021, 12:33 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
did you check out the video about this by Timmy and Sean? see # 28 and #72.

Code:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/217550-3rd-gen-t4r-diy-maintenance-repair-modification-videos.html
Shoot I've watched a bit of 28 but I wasn't looking for the torque stuff at that time. I will rewatch them, thanks for the idea!

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Originally Posted by Vansnxtweek View Post
I appreciate your honesty. I was gonna say before I read your post...ainít nobody doing alignments using a torque wrench,lol. Iím a bit of a torque freak but I can see where itís not super necessary there. Good and tight haha.

For the back ones Iím sure they use a box wrench or adjustable and crank the shhhhh out if it.

Seems like an odd issue man. Hard for me to think how the white line bushings could be to blame. Iím gonna have to ponder.
Well I mean I don't think you would do the alignment with the torque wrench, you would just torque it once it's done. I'm in the service manual specifically says 96 ft pounds, I don't think your average alignment tech is going to hit that with some little box end wrench haha.

I actually found a 22 mm 1/2 drive Crow's foot, it's from snap-on. I'm probably going to order it and see if it works.

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locktite?
Honestly I thought about it, but I don't know if it's a good idea or not
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Old 04-07-2021, 01:14 AM #7
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Shoot I've watched a bit of 28 but I wasn't looking for the torque stuff at that time. I will rewatch them, thanks for the idea!
i think the rack was kinda loose, for theirs. it isn't a giant extra step after doing the LCAs, to loosen the rack bolts to avoid mangling your inner tie rod boot. another thought along the line of alignment tech practicality, is find a similar size nut elsewhere and torque it to 96 ft lbf with a torque wrench, then loosen and re-tighten with a regular long wrench and remember how it feels to your hand. i just did that for the rear right upper control arm where my torque wrench would not click soon enough to turn the bolt, given all the obstructions. so i just took a SWAG based on how the opposite side felt. i know it's not far off.
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Old 04-07-2021, 11:23 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
i think the rack was kinda loose, for theirs. it isn't a giant extra step after doing the LCAs, to loosen the rack bolts to avoid mangling your inner tie rod boot. another thought along the line of alignment tech practicality, is find a similar size nut elsewhere and torque it to 96 ft lbf with a torque wrench, then loosen and re-tighten with a regular long wrench and remember how it feels to your hand. i just did that for the rear right upper control arm where my torque wrench would not click soon enough to turn the bolt, given all the obstructions. so i just took a SWAG based on how the opposite side felt. i know it's not far off.

96 is about the torque on lug nuts.


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Old 04-07-2021, 11:57 AM #9
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Cam bolt elimination kit with after maket ucas could also be an option.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:07 PM #10
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Cam bolt elimination kit with after maket ucas could also be an option.
I did think about that, but then the problem becomes that there are no alignment shops around me that are competent enough to be able to align it using the adjustable upper arm at that point...

Okay so I did finally find a 22mm 1/2 drive crows foot. I'm going to order it and torque the bolts to 96 ft lbs just to see if the noise stops. If that does the trick then the next time I get in an aligjment I'm just going to bring it and either tell him to do it or let me do it as soon as they're done... Haha

Speaking of that, is it worth it to get a torque wrench calibrated or just to get another one? I don't have an expensive one so that's why I'm not sure if it's worth it or not..
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