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Old 04-23-2021, 11:03 AM #31
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Using a test light and using the bright bulb- dim bulb-no bulb

If the OP isnít mindful putting that meter of his to Amps he will blow the internal fuse. It canít be used in the same way switched to amps as one does measuring voltage and resistance.


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Old 04-23-2021, 12:51 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Using a test light and using the bright bulb- dim bulb-no bulb

If the OP isn’t mindful putting that meter of his to Amps he will blow the internal fuse. It can’t be used in the same way switched to amps as one does measuring voltage and resistance.


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good reminder. i was operating on the assumption (but we know what that makes of us) that OP would have the vehicle off and accessories off, and then commence testing in series with various suspect devices, to see which one(s) is/are using power without permission. i didn't make that super-clear... my bad.

in my '95 truck, there's a dash dimmer and it is scratchy and sometimes craps out some dash lights until i adjust it. i don't recall any rheostats used to control the interior lights in either the truck or my 4R, but if there's one that i can't recall, it would be very worth twiddling that.

in the absence of an actual rheostat, given the persistent symptom that all interior lights run dim if they run at all, then it's not a matter of say one loose lead to the dome light. we don't yet know if there's +12v to the dome light receptacle (as an easy one to test). if the battery measures 12.6v at the time of testing but when the dome light *ought to* light up in the ON position with the door shut, instead the dome light receptacle measures far lower voltage, then something seriously weird is happening. if the dome light receptacle (correctly) has 12.6v also at that time, i can't picture what would be functioning to dim it as if it had a rheostat, which is why i was wondering if a high-drain device such as a radio might be causing the dimming, but that still sounds far-fetched despite my inclination to think of it as a culprit.
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Old 04-26-2021, 01:27 PM #33
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I got a bit lost reading your posts, and have a total noob question. How am I supposed to test the dome plug for voltage without risking blowing the internal fuse on my meter?
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Old 04-26-2021, 10:26 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 906-Runner View Post
I got a bit lost reading your posts, and have a total noob question. How am I supposed to test the dome plug for voltage without risking blowing the internal fuse on my meter?
set your DVM to the right range (unless it's auto-ranging) for DC voltage. for instance, one of my DVMs is auto-ranging and all i do is set it to DC. another one of mine has a rotary dial for DC 2-20v, so i use that when i use that DVM.

set the light switch to the position where it would be on, even though it's either dim or not getting power at all at the moment. turn on your DVM in the right range. with the dome bulb temporarily removed to make this easier, just hold one probe to each of the bayonet mounts. it doesn't matter which -- you'll either see positive voltage, like +12.60v or negative voltage like -12.60v. for our purposes we don't care whether positive or negative, but rather that it's getting continuity to the battery and nothing is dropping the voltage.

once you get a reading, check that against the battery directly so you can compare.

touching your DVM probes to the leads (one each, no bridging) is as harmless in the right DC range as directly measuring across the studs on the top of the battery. there should be no issue with blown fuses, since you're not going to exceed your DVM's maximum range by getting thousands of volts.
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Old 04-27-2021, 09:03 AM #35
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He also needs to check that dome lamp voltage under load with the bulb installed and switch turned on.

Bad connections will show full voltage when not loaded. Under load the connections fail.

He only needs to be carefull in amps mode. If he tries reading a higher voltage than what he has his range set for it will just read OL or range etc.

Dumb question....OP you have the correct lamp in there correct? Not one that fits rated for 24v or a LED?


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Old 04-28-2021, 03:57 PM #36
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So I actually do have small LED panels in place of the stock bulbs, but those where installed and worked before I started testing as I mentioned in my first post.
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Old 04-28-2021, 04:00 PM #37
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I tested between the prongs on the dome light and I'm only getting about 2 volts; clearly I have too much resistance somewhere but now I've got to track it down.
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Old 04-28-2021, 07:10 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 906-Runner View Post
I tested between the prongs on the dome light and I'm only getting about 2 volts; clearly I have too much resistance somewhere but now I've got to track it down.
this is going to sound bizarre, unlikely and just wrong in the head, but it seriously sounds like it could be being run through your speakers. if i'm calculating this right, if you start with 12v dc and the circuit (this hypothetical messed-up circuit) with four 2Ω speakers is set up in a voltage divider arrangement, then 12v in becomes ~ 3v out. i mean, crazy-sounding but it bears some investigation.

if someone with way more electronics background than i have, could chime in, that would be great.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:17 PM #39
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Dome Light Question

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I tested between the prongs on the dome light and I'm only getting about 2 volts; clearly I have too much resistance somewhere but now I've got to track it down.

Did you pull the led out of the socket when you had 2v at the prongs?

What were you putting your black lead on for ground.


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Old 05-03-2021, 02:02 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Did you pull the led out of the socket when you had 2v at the prongs?

What were you putting your black lead on for ground.


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So I actually tested the socket it self without the led in place, thatís when I got two volts. I might be doing it wrong as far as testing cause I just had my red lead on one side and black on the other with my meter on volts
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Old 05-03-2021, 02:26 PM #41
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So I actually tested the socket it self without the led in place, thatís when I got two volts. I might be doing it wrong as far as testing cause I just had my red lead on one side and black on the other with my meter on volts

You need to put your black lead on a bolt head or screw head that is screwed into the body or frame.

With the black lead on a metal screw head one side will read voltage and the other side will not.


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Old 05-05-2021, 10:11 PM #42
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@photoleif , where would these relays be located? I can hear them click once and then again as I turn the key to ACC, so would that be a faulty relay? Also about your speaker theory, how would I go about testing that?

@19963.4lsr5 , without the bulb in place and the black lead grounded to the body I get about a tenth of a volt (pretty much nothing).

I'm no electrical master and this is all starting to get annoying daily driving with no lights and radio. Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for the radio to see if it'll turn on if I pull power from somewhere else (charging ports)?
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Old 05-06-2021, 09:50 AM #43
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Originally Posted by 906-Runner View Post
@photoleif , where would these relays be located? I can hear them click once and then again as I turn the key to ACC, so would that be a faulty relay? Also about your speaker theory, how would I go about testing that?

@19963.4lsr5 , without the bulb in place and the black lead grounded to the body I get about a tenth of a volt (pretty much nothing).

I'm no electrical master and this is all starting to get annoying daily driving with no lights and radio. Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram for the radio to see if it'll turn on if I pull power from somewhere else (charging ports)?
with OEM-only parts, the main fusebox under the hood houses several relays. the fuse panel behind the lower finish panel (dash, behind the popout left and below the steering column) has several as well. in looking at the diagrams, i don't see that relays play much of a role, if any, with interior lighting and radio. those appear to be fused only.

with aftermarket parts however, it is possible that relays are involved, for instance my aftermarket key fob control module requires a relay, and an unnecessarily busy one at that. relays are designed to click. current running through a small coil inside induces a small magnetic field around an iron armature (a solenoid) which moves the armature to either the open or closed position depending on the relay's design. removing that current opens the circuit for the kind of relays i commonly encounter in automotive applications. you can hear the magnet on the armature click back and forth as it actuates. they are very simple devices designed to last a very long time. it is rare though not impossible for one to go bad.

when you switch the dome light switch onto the ON position (e.g., it would normally produce light if your circuit were working, regardless of door open or not) do you get the 0.8v reading across the terminals of the dome light, in addition to using the positive of that to body ground? if so, then that says proceed to next step. if it's actually 12v, well then problem solved there.

in terms of my horrendous guess (it's not even worthy of being called a hypothesis yet, let alone a theory) concerning wiring accidentally running through speakers, my train of thought was: aftermarket connectors (or installers) got goofed up, literally wires crossed, and someone was looking for a +12 constant or +12 switched, thought they had the right one by color or apparent gauge of wire, and hooked it up. i admit to some false starts of my own in this area, some years ago, which is why i bring it up. anyway, it is very unlikely but not impossible that the connector wiring is goofed up such that the dome light circuit got used as a switched source of +12, and the radio or its molex somehow bridges that to the speakers. again, this is admittedly very far-fetched since in an OEM world the radio circuit and interior light circuit are distinct. if there's some janky wiring, then all bets are off wrt which fuse controls what.

but i would take that dash panel off and look at every wiring connection to the radio. i believe in a prior post you said this is an aftermarket radio, not the OEM one, correct? download the installation manual for it, verify everything. i would also look behind the radio and verify that the OEM amplifier, which is a small box with cooling fins on the sides and a thick wrapped wire loom coming out the back, is not hooked up. an aftermarket radio doesn't need that amp unless someone's gone to some trouble to adapt it.

with that unplugged, and after you checked the connections to the radio, it's worth another try with the dome light prongs to check their voltage with the dome light switch set to ON. you ought to get +12 in general, and obviously something's giving you an open circuit, or one with a lot of resistance.

another test to be doing is to make very certain that the fuse for interior lights is good. visual inspection technically is enough most of the time, but set your new DVM to its continuity setting and touch each DVM lead to one prong on the fuse, held in your hand (polarity doesn't matter). it should beep or light or whatever your DVM is made to do with continuity. it's good practice to always briefly touch the DVM leads together in the continuity setting first (just by themselves) so you both know what it will do (e.g. light up) or sound like (beep), plus that you know it will test continuity at all. once you are certain that fuse is good (e.g. you got a beep), then put it back into the fuse panel and see if your dome light works.
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Old 05-06-2021, 05:08 PM #44
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Dome Light Question


On my dome light (97) the switch side is the 12v side and I read full battery voltage. I used the right hand Phillips screw as my ground.

My LED light is polarity sensitive. It only lights installed one way. If you rotate it 180 degrees it will not turn on.

The right hand side of the bulb socket is the ground side. Reading ohms on your meter you should see low resistance to the screw head just below it with any door open. Kilo ohms or less. I read anywhere from 40k to 9k with the door open. Pushing in the switch makes it go infinity.


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Old 06-21-2021, 09:03 AM #45
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There has been a development, I disconnected the radio and tapped into the power outlets and it works so thatís good. But the interesting thing is now my clock and interior lights work, but only when the headlights are on. As soon as the turn the headlights off, the interior lights no longer work and the clock turns off, resetting to 1:00. Any one got any ideas? Iím getting good voltage everywhere
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