User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 04-11-2021, 11:12 PM #1
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 20
roscoe67 is on a distinguished road
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 20
roscoe67 is on a distinguished road
1997 power door lock circuit?

Hi - little problem with my front passenger door lock switch. For some reason, only the 'lock' side of the circuit works in that armrest. It is not the switch - I tested the switch with a multimeter, then when it cleared, jumped the leads in the block with a piece of wire. Again - 'close' works, but not 'open'. This means, as far as I can tell, that this wire has failed somewhere. I guess I will pull open the place where it flexes in the door jamb first. But at first glance nothing looks out of place, so I am wondering where that wire runs. Does it go into the passenger footwell, then behind the heater to the fuseblock in the driver's footwell? If so, I might just run a new wire.

But if anybody knows anything about this circuit, or has ideas, I would be much obliged.
roscoe67 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 04-12-2021, 01:20 AM #2
photoleif photoleif is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 219
Real Name: Leif
photoleif will become famous soon enough
photoleif photoleif is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 219
Real Name: Leif
photoleif will become famous soon enough
this answer pertains to my '99, and it may be useful to you; not sure if the wiring is the same. the wiring goes through the loom / conduit near the hinge, of course, but i believe it changes color somewhere in that path, which makes things 'interesting' by the time it reaches the thick bundle of wires in the area you referred to, which is directly below the driver's side kick panel fuse block (near one's left knee, approximately). i needed to pulse two leads: green/yellow, and brown/white.

looking at the door lock control schematic (034DLC.pdf) in the FSM, G-Y is unlock, and BR-W is lock. i think that should help you since you could briefly pulse +12 at one or the other (vampire tap or pin or something) and really determine if the switch is getting power, if the lock mechanism is to blame, or if one of those molexes is going wonky on you. i recall from futzing with those molexes in the armrest that both of the main ones need to be connected properly, or some functions mysteriously fail.
__________________
'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing

'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams

Last edited by photoleif; 04-12-2021 at 01:35 AM.
photoleif is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 04-12-2021, 01:58 AM #3
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 20
roscoe67 is on a distinguished road
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Nevada
Posts: 20
roscoe67 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
this answer pertains to my '99, and it may be useful to you; not sure if the wiring is the same. the wiring goes through the loom / conduit near the hinge, of course, but i believe it changes color somewhere in that path, which makes things 'interesting' by the time it reaches the thick bundle of wires in the area you referred to, which is directly below the driver's side kick panel fuse block (near one's left knee, approximately). i needed to pulse two leads: green/yellow, and brown/white.

looking at the door lock control schematic (034DLC.pdf) in the FSM, G-Y is unlock, and BR-W is lock. i think that should help you since you could briefly pulse +12 at one or the other (vampire tap or pin or something) and really determine if the switch is getting power, if the lock mechanism is to blame, or if one of those molexes is going wonky on you. i recall from futzing with those molexes in the armrest that both of the main ones need to be connected properly, or some functions mysteriously fail.
Thanks - yes to the molex. I jumped the connections in the molex and it will work if I jump the 'close' circuit, but note the 'open'.

Very disappointed to hear that the wires change colors!!! Not ideal!!
roscoe67 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 04-12-2021, 02:14 AM #4
photoleif photoleif is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 219
Real Name: Leif
photoleif will become famous soon enough
photoleif photoleif is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Dolores, CO
Posts: 219
Real Name: Leif
photoleif will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoe67 View Post
Thanks - yes to the molex. I jumped the connections in the molex and it will work if I jump the 'close' circuit, but note the 'open'.

Very disappointed to hear that the wires change colors!!! Not ideal!!
sounds like the G-Y lead should be what you seek out first. if you can pulse that and unlock fails, then I think you're reasonably assured that the wire is at fault somewhere in the door. of note, there's plenty of us who have had to splice wires in the hatchback to get various stuff to work again, like wiper or window defroster. it wouldn't surprise me at all if occasionally some door wires fail too.
__________________
'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing

'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams

Last edited by photoleif; 04-12-2021 at 02:17 AM.
photoleif is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
circuit , door , lock , switch , wire

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Power door lock ?? 4restGump 3rd gen T4Rs 0 03-23-2020 05:51 PM
FS: Power Door Lock Actuator with Lock Latch - rear passenger side T4RTX For Sale: T4R Items 4 06-26-2014 02:58 PM
'95 4runner power door lock nortonian Classic T4Rs 2 12-03-2013 01:27 PM
power door lock question 994rnr 3rd gen T4Rs 1 04-22-2011 04:28 AM
Power Door lock not working wallbus Engines / Suspension / Wheels / Tires / Audio / Accessories 1 01-10-2006 05:58 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:26 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020