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Old 04-11-2021, 11:12 PM #1
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
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1997 power door lock circuit?

Hi - little problem with my front passenger door lock switch. For some reason, only the 'lock' side of the circuit works in that armrest. It is not the switch - I tested the switch with a multimeter, then when it cleared, jumped the leads in the block with a piece of wire. Again - 'close' works, but not 'open'. This means, as far as I can tell, that this wire has failed somewhere. I guess I will pull open the place where it flexes in the door jamb first. But at first glance nothing looks out of place, so I am wondering where that wire runs. Does it go into the passenger footwell, then behind the heater to the fuseblock in the driver's footwell? If so, I might just run a new wire.

But if anybody knows anything about this circuit, or has ideas, I would be much obliged.
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Old 04-12-2021, 01:20 AM #2
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this answer pertains to my '99, and it may be useful to you; not sure if the wiring is the same. the wiring goes through the loom / conduit near the hinge, of course, but i believe it changes color somewhere in that path, which makes things 'interesting' by the time it reaches the thick bundle of wires in the area you referred to, which is directly below the driver's side kick panel fuse block (near one's left knee, approximately). i needed to pulse two leads: green/yellow, and brown/white.

looking at the door lock control schematic (034DLC.pdf) in the FSM, G-Y is unlock, and BR-W is lock. i think that should help you since you could briefly pulse +12 at one or the other (vampire tap or pin or something) and really determine if the switch is getting power, if the lock mechanism is to blame, or if one of those molexes is going wonky on you. i recall from futzing with those molexes in the armrest that both of the main ones need to be connected properly, or some functions mysteriously fail.
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing

'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams

Last edited by photoleif; 04-12-2021 at 01:35 AM.
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Old 04-12-2021, 01:58 AM #3
roscoe67 roscoe67 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoleif View Post
this answer pertains to my '99, and it may be useful to you; not sure if the wiring is the same. the wiring goes through the loom / conduit near the hinge, of course, but i believe it changes color somewhere in that path, which makes things 'interesting' by the time it reaches the thick bundle of wires in the area you referred to, which is directly below the driver's side kick panel fuse block (near one's left knee, approximately). i needed to pulse two leads: green/yellow, and brown/white.

looking at the door lock control schematic (034DLC.pdf) in the FSM, G-Y is unlock, and BR-W is lock. i think that should help you since you could briefly pulse +12 at one or the other (vampire tap or pin or something) and really determine if the switch is getting power, if the lock mechanism is to blame, or if one of those molexes is going wonky on you. i recall from futzing with those molexes in the armrest that both of the main ones need to be connected properly, or some functions mysteriously fail.
Thanks - yes to the molex. I jumped the connections in the molex and it will work if I jump the 'close' circuit, but note the 'open'.

Very disappointed to hear that the wires change colors!!! Not ideal!!
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Old 04-12-2021, 02:14 AM #4
photoleif photoleif is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscoe67 View Post
Thanks - yes to the molex. I jumped the connections in the molex and it will work if I jump the 'close' circuit, but note the 'open'.

Very disappointed to hear that the wires change colors!!! Not ideal!!
sounds like the G-Y lead should be what you seek out first. if you can pulse that and unlock fails, then I think you're reasonably assured that the wire is at fault somewhere in the door. of note, there's plenty of us who have had to splice wires in the hatchback to get various stuff to work again, like wiper or window defroster. it wouldn't surprise me at all if occasionally some door wires fail too.
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'99 'Highlander' 4R SR5 5VZ-FE | 5-spd | LED lighting | TBU | 265-75R17 Duratrac stuffed after some pinch-weld convincing

'95 Xtra cab 5VZ-FE swap 5-spd | 33x10.50-15 BFG AT/KOs | 4" Superlift | ARB rear locker | OME torsion bars | Total Chaos idler arm & uniball | Smittybilt bumpers | Sportsman topper | Aisin manual hubs | K&N | Dual Optimas | Extended diff breathers | Bilstein 5100s | De-striped | Hella pencil-beams

Last edited by photoleif; 04-12-2021 at 02:17 AM.
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