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Old 04-17-2021, 09:24 AM #16
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After watching this I think I'm just going to find a shop to recharge it and go from there. I don't want to spend the money on a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump. When I went down this road with my Corolla I ended up spending over a grand for a shop to chase a leak which never was fully resolved so I'm a little gunshy about dealing with a shop but I also don't want a bunch of tools that I'm only going to use once.

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That would be your best route since they have all the necessary equipment. I'd ask them to add additional ac dye for future checking. You can get an ac leak detection light and glasses on amazon for cheap so you can check it yourself periodically. Here's the one I use for ac leak diagnosis at work: Amazon.com: TaoTronics TT-FL002 Black Light, 51 LEDs Uv Blacklight Flashlights Detector for Dry Pets Urine & Stains & Bed Bug with Free Uv Sunglasses & 3 Free AA Batteries, Purple: Pet Supplies

If there is a problem Bamadrewski has a very complete write up on replacing the entire ac system: DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited

In case anyone is wondering the 3 types of automotive refrigerant are R-12 (older cars that should retrofit to R-134a), R-134a (R-12's more eco friendly replacement), and R-1234yf (newest cars use this, and R-134a's eco neutral replacement). All 3 systems have different fittings so that you can't accidentally charge a system meant for one refrigerant with the wrong refrigerant.
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:32 AM #17
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Over the years I acquired a used 6cfm vacuum pump and a electronic leak detector.

The strait up cans of 134a will not have a suction gauge and your suction pressure is going to be different depending on how hot it is outside.

You can purchase the parts at the autoparts stores to put a suction gauge on a charging setup that also pierces the can.

But yes that suction pressure is with your doors open and ac on Max and your engine being held at a certain rpm above idle. Your suction pressure will be higher at idle than at 1200rpm for a given charge.


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Old 04-17-2021, 11:40 AM #18
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...Luckily I barely put any in. This is what I got...
Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.
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Old 04-17-2021, 11:50 AM #19
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Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.
I recommended taking it somewhere to get charged because the OP can't find any refrigerant without the ac leak seal stuff that isn't good for your compressor. I wouldn't touch that canned refrigerant with the leak additive in it with a ten foot pole. I've seen them cause more trouble than good.

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I tried to get one without any sealer in it but every single can on the shelf had some sort of sealer in it. Maybe I'll go to a different store and see if I can find something without sealer. Luckily I barely put any in. This is what I got.

Big Chill(R) | BC-1 R-134a Trigger Recharge Dispenser

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Old 04-17-2021, 11:54 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
Everyone glazing right over this...
Put the correct amount in your vehicle before contemplating spending another $100+ for someone else to do it, just because you've encountered a hiccup. You're just paying them to wipe your ass and hold your hand.
We're on page 2 and nobody has even mentioned using the sight glass yet. A big red flag to me that going to a shop is being recommended before doing this.

I never use the sight glass for 134a systems. Too many times the oil can be confused with 134a vapor and it gets overcharged.

R12 systems that sight glass is the gauge free way to charge.


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Old 04-17-2021, 12:27 PM #21
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I'm not saying forgo a gauge altogether, I'm saying you should be regarding your sight glass during the process; the same as how every bottle of refrigerant and Toyota themselves tell you to. The same thing Timmy says to do.
I have yet to see any refrigerant being sold that doesn't contain a very small amount of stop leak, and afaik the only difference between a regular bottle of recharge and one meant to specifically advertised to fix leaks is how much of this additive in included, including Interdynamics brand which is what Timmy used in his video. But I could be wrong.
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Old 04-17-2021, 01:30 PM #22
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AC warm after recharge.

This is a can of strait up 134a no stop leak. I use to have a bunch from DuPont


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Old 04-17-2021, 01:38 PM #23
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In California you can buy 12oz cans of straight R134 without additives at parts stores and Amazon. I guess that other states and countries are different which surprises me because usually its the other way around. To the OP, if you watched Timmys video and are still not feeling good about this I totally get it. It's always nice to have someone with experience take you under their wing the first time working with refrigerants. After that, these systems are pretty simple to work on.
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Old 04-17-2021, 06:32 PM #24
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Thinking back on it, I was really only looking at the cans that came with the hose/gauge assembly attached. There were other cans on the shelf that I really didn't consider. Some of those may have been without sealers added.

I'd definitely prefer to do it myself with a set of gauges but I just don't want to add another one-time use tool to my collection. Plus Timmy didn't really mess with the high side and just made sure the pressure on the high side looked right.

I'm thinking I'll stop by another parts store and see what kind of sealant-free cans they sell with dye and maybe get a hose assembly with a better gauge. I know it's not the "proper" way to do it, but it seems to work well enough for people. I just know that any shop is going to want to charge me to try and find a leak which I can't argue with...it's really the right thing to do. But I'd just like to see how long it will go with a recharge.

I just went out to check the sight glass and the compressor isn't kicking on anymore, likely because the charge is so low and it's cooler here today so the pressure has likely dropped since I put that little squirt of refrigerant in yesterday.
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Old 04-17-2021, 06:43 PM #25
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AC warm after recharge.

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Thinking back on it, I was really only looking at the cans that came with the hose/gauge assembly attached. There were other cans on the shelf that I really didn't consider. Some of those may have been without sealers added.

I'd definitely prefer to do it myself with a set of gauges but I just don't want to add another one-time use tool to my collection. Plus Timmy didn't really mess with the high side and just made sure the pressure on the high side looked right.

I'm thinking I'll stop by another parts store and see what kind of sealant-free cans they sell with dye and maybe get a hose assembly with a better gauge. I know it's not the "proper" way to do it, but it seems to work well enough for people. I just know that any shop is going to want to charge me to try and find a leak which I can't argue with...it's really the right thing to do. But I'd just like to see how long it will go with a recharge.

I just went out to check the sight glass and the compressor isn't kicking on anymore, likely because the charge is so low and it's cooler here today so the pressure has likely dropped since I put that little squirt of refrigerant in yesterday.

Try and piece together the piercing part with a port for a spin on gauge to measure the suction pressure.

I looked for the AC performance specs for our 3rd Gen in my file cabinet and don’t have them printed out. But unless you vac out the system and put two 12oz cans in. You need those ambient temp specs to know what suction pressure you need for your local temps. Plus I think 900rpm is the spec to measure the suction pressure not curb idle.

Edit. I have two can piercing setups to connect to the low side test port. The suction gauge I bought threads into the hose the goes to the suction test port. I just removed the can piercing valve and threaded the gauge into where it was.


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Old 04-17-2021, 06:55 PM #26
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Try and piece together the piercing part with a port for a spin on gauge to measure the suction pressure.

I looked for the AC performance specs for our 3rd Gen in my file cabinet and don’t have them printed out. But unless you vac out the system and put two 12oz cans in. You need those ambient temp specs to know what suction pressure you need for your local temps. Plus I think 900rpm is the spec to measure the suction pressure not curb idle.

Edit. I have two can piercing setups to connect to the low side test port. The suction gauge I bought threads into the hose the goes to the suction test port. I just removed the can piercing valve and threaded the gauge into where it was.


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Is this what you're looking for?

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Old 04-17-2021, 07:02 PM #27
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Looking at the high side is kind of important and kind of not. It helps you know how well your condenser if preforming.

Refrigerant has a pressure temperature relationship, the high side should be 100psi above ambient local temps. So for that you need to look at the pressure/temperature chart for 134a and see what the pressure should be for your local temp and add that to the 100psi. The AC performance chart in the FSM will also give you a range of pressure for the high side based on outside temp and humidity conditions. That chart is usually a 10 degree span. So you will have a min and max.

90% of the time if your AC is cold driving and not so cold in stop and go traffic it’s your clutch for the cooling fan not spinning the fan fast enough to cool and condense the 134a from a gas to a liquid by the time it leaves the condenser.


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Old 04-17-2021, 07:07 PM #28
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Is this what you're looking for?


If that’s from the Toyota fsm then yes. 1500 rpm etc and slowly add 134a into the system until you hit those numbers.

I used the AC specs for my 04 WJ grand Cherokee because they have identical systems and it worked.


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Old 04-17-2021, 10:06 PM #29
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I found some sealant-free refrigerant with dye at Autozone. I hooked it up and tried to add it to the system. After holding it on there for 30 seconds or so the compressor kicked on and pressure went to zero on the gauge. I'd hold the trigger for a while but every time I let go the pressure never climbed above zero and the can didn't feel any lighter although I could see some dye on the valve. The only time the gauge shows pressure is when the compressor is off. The pressure with the compressor off is at the upper end full but that pressure is meaningless right? I'm perplexed. When I let go of the trigger and the compressor is running I should see pressure right?

The only question mark is that the cans I got are the pierce style and the hose I'm using came on a can with an auto seal top. I read that the new valves are backward compatible with the old style puncture cans but maybe not?

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Old 04-17-2021, 10:14 PM #30
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When you look at the pressure without the compressor running that really just shows you if there are any non condensable gases in the system. ALA atmosphere. If it goes to zero psi when the compressor kicks in you really should vacuum it and look for leaks.

24oz of 134a is a lot of refrigerant. A couple seconds filling it will not make it happy. It’s two cans worth of 134a.


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