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Old 04-17-2021, 11:10 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
When you look at the pressure without the compressor running that really just shows you if there are any non condensable gases in the system. ALA atmosphere. If it goes to zero psi when the compressor kicks in you really should vacuum it and look for leaks.

24oz of 134a is a lot of refrigerant. A couple seconds filling it will not make it happy. It’s two cans worth of 134a.


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I might just need to take it to the shop.

I had tried filling it for like 10 straight minutes and it seemed like very little came out of the can and the gauge never moved off of zero.

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Old 04-18-2021, 01:06 AM #32
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I should also mention that I checked the sight glass after the compressor was on and I could see small bubbles. It didn't look foamy, just small bubbles.

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Old 04-18-2021, 01:22 AM #33
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Originally Posted by texadelphia View Post
I found some sealant-free refrigerant with dye at Autozone. I hooked it up and tried to add it to the system. After holding it on there for 30 seconds or so the compressor kicked on and pressure went to zero on the gauge. I'd hold the trigger for a while but every time I let go the pressure never climbed above zero and the can didn't feel any lighter although I could see some dye on the valve. The only time the gauge shows pressure is when the compressor is off. The pressure with the compressor off is at the upper end full but that pressure is meaningless right? I'm perplexed. When I let go of the trigger and the compressor is running I should see pressure right?

The only question mark is that the cans I got are the pierce style and the hose I'm using came on a can with an auto seal top. I read that the new valves are backward compatible with the old style puncture cans but maybe not?

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Just checked the product page for the hose/gauge I was using and it says it only works with self-sealing cans, not the puncture type. I'm guessing this might be why no refrigerant was going into the system.

AFGBM3-6 | Arctic Freeze™ Auto A/C Recharge Reusable R-134a Gauge & Hose
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Old 04-18-2021, 08:22 AM #34
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Wrong connector?! Maybe for different type of refrigerant?

So if you do get the correct type, when filling the can will get cold, this indicates pressure dropping in the can and increasing in system. The filling, either liquid (can upside down) or gas (right side up) only takes about 1 minute, if that much. Many times my daugher's prius only takes about 30 seconds to go from low to mid green, maybe less. Its a quick process.

If some freon remains in can, do not remove the connector, save as is for next time. This is gonna work!
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Old 04-18-2021, 04:47 PM #35
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Success! Using the new style of connector apparently doesn't work with the old style of puncture cans...go figure. I tracked down a can with a self-sealing valve this morning and was able to fill the system with the hose/gauge I had. It's blowing ice cold now. It only took one small can to get up to pressure so it doesn't seem like it was totally empty. I'm guessing it's a small leak that just finally got low enough that the ac stopped working. I'll check it over the next couple weeks to see if it seems to be losing any at a noticeable rate. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:52 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devbot View Post
I'm not saying forgo a gauge altogether, I'm saying you should be regarding your sight glass during the process; the same as how every bottle of refrigerant and Toyota themselves tell you to. The same thing Timmy says to do.
I have yet to see any refrigerant being sold that doesn't contain a very small amount of stop leak, and afaik the only difference between a regular bottle of recharge and one meant to specifically advertised to fix leaks is how much of this additive in included, including Interdynamics brand which is what Timmy used in his video. But I could be wrong.
The stuff we use at my shop is pure refrigerant without any additives
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Old 04-19-2021, 11:12 AM #37
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The stuff we use at my shop is pure refrigerant without any additives
Wallymart sells a 100% refrigerant only 12oz can for about $5...as well as the oil included and ink type if need be.....
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Old 04-19-2021, 10:24 PM #38
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Originally Posted by texadelphia View Post
The can says it's R134. You can't even buy R12 anymore. I know because I tried to track some down for.my 91 corolla.

I considered getting a vacuum pump and set of gauges but I wanted to give this a shot first in case it's just a slow leak from age.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky 97Runner View Post
If he's doing this on his 97 4Runner he has a factory R134A system, not R12. I would stay away from parts store refrigerant with leak sealers but straight 134A should be fine. Refrigerants are very highly regulated and I seriously doubt they would try to mix it with propane.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/r..._psugg_q=freon

I have written ''R12A'', but my memory failed me, and it's ''12A''. It's written R134A on the can but it might not be R134, here in canada, I never see R134A in cans, we get cans which are written R134A but is 12A inside, which is not freon, it's some kind of propane.

Look everywhere on the can you bought and be sure it is NOT this very common 12A and REAL 134A.

I've tried, and mixing both is a real mess, also, that R134A replacement really sucks even with the perfect vaccuum and fill. If you mixed, simply have to vaccuum and fill back with the real deal.

edit: seen that you got your system back to cold, glad you got it going, you saved a LOT of $$$. I am at my 3Rd A/C system overhaul, so imagine how much it's possible to save with a good manifold set and a 100$ vacuum pump. Also, the new type of cans is IMO better, since I can leave a can half used and finish it on a later job without having to leave the fitting screwed on them permanently.
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