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Old 04-20-2021, 12:28 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean.turner.1238 View Post
Thank you. By the way, did this occur with just one side? Or was it both sides

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harness and coils are only on one side, the pass side, the coils feed both sides. It sure sonds , like others have said, that something is not plugged in correctly. would be nice if its just the order of the coils and plugging them in correct.
Otherise, i I remeber correct, many of the parts have plugs that only fit that part, so its pretty hard to plug the worng plug to a sensor....the coils, all take the same kind of plug, so yuo could mess up the order I guess.
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Old 04-20-2021, 12:40 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
harness and coils are only on one side, the pass side, the coils feed both sides. It sure sonds , like others have said, that something is not plugged in correctly. would be nice if its just the order of the coils and plugging them in correct.
Otherise, i I remeber correct, many of the parts have plugs that only fit that part, so its pretty hard to plug the worng plug to a sensor....the coils, all take the same kind of plug, so yuo could mess up the order I guess.
Agreed. And since each coil pack fires two cylinders if they are switched 4 will be firing at the wrong time.
Only likely to happen if the wiring harness is pulled apart. The wire for the middle pack goes all the way to the front of the factory plastic loom and exits at the same place as the wire for the front coil pack. Then has to go back to the middle plug, hence why it is longest.
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:06 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
harness and coils are only on one side, the pass side, the coils feed both sides. It sure sonds , like others have said, that something is not plugged in correctly. would be nice if its just the order of the coils and plugging them in correct.
Otherise, i I remeber correct, many of the parts have plugs that only fit that part, so its pretty hard to plug the worng plug to a sensor....the coils, all take the same kind of plug, so yuo could mess up the order I guess.
Lol duh nvm

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Old 04-20-2021, 01:07 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swapped_mini View Post
Agreed. And since each coil pack fires two cylinders if they are switched 4 will be firing at the wrong time.

Only likely to happen if the wiring harness is pulled apart. The wire for the middle pack goes all the way to the front of the factory plastic loom and exits at the same place as the wire for the front coil pack. Then has to go back to the middle plug, hence why it is longest.
May have happened actually since I unwrapped a lot of the factory tape to wrap it with my new stuff.

Moment of truth in 15 mins when I get home!

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Old 04-20-2021, 01:42 PM #20
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Well boys she fired up. It was the backwards coil pack connectors.

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Old 04-20-2021, 01:48 PM #21
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Awesome! Glad it worked for you!
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Old 04-20-2021, 01:57 PM #22
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It's still blowing a shit ton of coolant out the pipe though. It was a few minutes of dense white clouds. This was after a minute or so it cleared up a bit. But when I revved the engine it dumped out more even heavier

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Old 04-20-2021, 02:17 PM #23
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Someone mentioned it earlier, but double check the coolant and air hoses that go to the Idle Air Control valve, you can run coolant into the motor through the intake that way. Be careful because this can hydrolock your motor.

If this is the case, you can pull the plugs and crank the motor over to make sure there isn't enough coolant in the cylinders to cause problems.
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Old 04-20-2021, 08:02 PM #24
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^^^ This would be my first guess.
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Old 04-28-2021, 12:21 AM #25
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Sorry to keep changing the title but it feels like the purpose of this thread keeps changing. I think this one will stick though since I seem to have quite a few things to work out. First and foremost, I have this gosh darn awful screaming coming from one of my belts. (BTW i have successfully taken the truck around the block after getting everything back together). I think it could be my alternator because it's acting a little funny. When I accelerate, my gauge cluster and headlights get brighter and then they dim again after I take my foot off the pedal. Is this normal? Also, the belt will scream for about a minute and then it will be completely silent for a minute... I'm sure my neighbors loved me.

Other things left to do

-Replace coolant temp switch that I broke upon reassembly (this thing is a PITA)

-Bleed brakes

-Cooling system flush

-Oil change

-New cotter pins for axle nut retainers

-New axle nut dust covers (I obliterated one of them)

-Other stuff I can't remember ATM

I will include more pics soon I know you guys love pics

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Old 04-28-2021, 07:49 PM #26
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Tightened up my alternator and the squeaking literally immediately went away. Ta daaa

I was able to twist the belt over 180 degrees so I tightened it until it was only about 90 degrees.

Still waiting on my coolant temp switch thingy to come in the mail. I was worried that that wouldn't allow the coolant to flow properly, but it seems like all that switch does is relay the temp to the gauge cluster. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine. So I gotta replace that and put in a few cotter pins. Then I want to do a thorough fluid flush/change. Gonna do coolant, oil, trans oil, and both diffs. I still need to recharge my AC system too as I discharged it when disassembling everything. Anybody know if I can just use the cans you can buy at auto parts stores for this? Or should I take it to a shop?



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Old 04-28-2021, 07:57 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean.turner.1238 View Post
Tightened up my alternator and the squeaking literally immediately went away. Ta daaa

I was able to twist the belt over 180 degrees so I tightened it until it was only about 90 degrees.

Still waiting on my coolant temp switch thingy to come in the mail. I was worried that that wouldn't allow the coolant to flow properly, but it seems like all that switch does is relay the temp to the gauge cluster. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine. So I gotta replace that and put in a few cotter pins. Then I want to do a thorough fluid flush/change. Gonna do coolant, oil, trans oil, and both diffs. I still need to recharge my AC system too as I discharged it when disassembling everything. Anybody know if I can just use the cans you can buy at auto parts stores for this? Or should I take it to a shop?



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Glad you got it going! There are two temp senders, one at the front of the intake and one at the rear. The one at the rear is for the gauge and the one at the front is for the computer if I remember right. It won't run right without the one for the computer hooked up because it uses this one to know when the motor is cold and hot, I am not sure if it would stay in high idle without it hooked up? It won't affect coolant flow because that is regulated by the thermostat which is mechanical. Either way sounds like you will have a new one soon.
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Old 04-28-2021, 08:17 PM #28
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Glad you got it going! There are two temp senders, one at the front of the intake and one at the rear. The one at the rear is for the gauge and the one at the front is for the computer if I remember right. It won't run right without the one for the computer hooked up because it uses this one to know when the motor is cold and hot, I am not sure if it would stay in high idle without it hooked up? It won't affect coolant flow because that is regulated by the thermostat which is mechanical. Either way sounds like you will have a new one soon.
Right. It's the rear one. Still not sure how to get at it. I may ended up just removing the intake plenum and moving the wire harness


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Old 04-28-2021, 09:22 PM #29
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She's going and she's going strong. Got a sizable oil leak though.

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Old 04-28-2021, 11:44 PM #30
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I need some help from you guys... I took out my engine oil dipstick and this be the new look of it. I tried to bend it back and it is now a two-piece dipstick. I need to find the part number for it. I've looked around and all I can find are universal fit ones and the toyota parts websites with the really awful diagram pictures where I can't tell what I'm looking at. Anybody?

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