Extended/High articulation CV Axle - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

octanejunkie · 02-05-2022, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

FWIW I went with the O'Reilly CVs.

My guess would be that you don’t need a diff drop if you’re going with extended articulation CVs and a 3” lift. But it’s just a guess.

Very curious:

Any feedback on the install, fit, boots?
Did you reuse your c-clips?
Did you have a 40mm socket or did you have to buy one?
How much lift do you have and did you drop your diff?

I'm speculating similarly that I may not need to.

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96RedRunner · 02-06-2022, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

The bigger question - with Extended Length CVs and a 3" front lift, will a diff drop still be required/desired? I'd prefer NOT to drop the diff if at all possible.

Aye Mike where you been, this a different Runner or one you had.

Them being high articulation, boots molded differently boot difference was mentioned few posts back.
Sounds as no reason for the diff drop or stretching and clamping boot to keep ribs from rubbing.
Two birds one stone kind of thing there.

cl4Rk · 02-06-2022, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Very curious:

Any feedback on the install, fit, boots?
Did you reuse your c-clips?
Did you have a 40mm socket or did you have to buy one?
How much lift do you have and did you drop your diff?

I'm speculating similarly that I may not need to.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yes, reused the retainer clips.

I have a 35mm 6 point deep impact socket for the originals that I rebooted and kept as spares.

For the new CVs, I have:
- Sunex 440MD 40mm deep 6 point 3/4” impact socket
- Sunex 2302 1/2” to 3/4” impact adapter

I didn’t personally install these CVs but the tech who did didn’t report any unusual issues.

No diff drop, 5100s on lowest perch with OME 880s and stock bumper, so just over 1” of lift in the front.

octanejunkie · 02-07-2022, 01:05 PM

I pulled trigger on a pair from O'Reilly's and will update on how these work for me.

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cl4Rk · 02-07-2022, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I pulled trigger on a pair from O'Reilly's and will update on how these work for me.

Nice!

I think someone asked this question earlier in this thread or maybe in a different thread, but I haven't been able to get an answer:

Does anyone know if someone sells a reboot kit for these high articulation CVs?

octanejunkie · 02-07-2022, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

Nice!

I think someone asked this question earlier in this thread or maybe in a different thread, but I haven't been able to get an answer:

Does anyone know if someone sells a reboot kit for these high articulation CVs?

Limited lifetime warranty

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octanejunkie · 02-08-2022, 10:49 AM

Picked up a pair at O'Reilly and ordered both 35 & 40mm 1/2" sockets

shadow247 · 02-08-2022, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Picked up a pair at O'Reilly and ordered both 35 & 40mm 1/2" sockets

Nice. I'm thinking about just replacing my non ET ones under warranty and see if they will credit me towards some of these. They were out of stock everywhere when I needed some back in November. I hate to buy another set as I now have 2 complete OEM backup sets (1 set needs reboot) laying on my shelf. I don't need 3 sets of CV axles laying around.

octanejunkie · 02-20-2022, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Catching up on this thread

Seems Napa is OOS on these, can't order and none of the stores can get

O'Reilly has TO8043ET for $258.99 each

BAP has ETCVs PN 90-06353N for $223.41 each

Both claim to have Unlimited Mileage Limited Lifetime Warranties, whatever that means, but look different - the O'Reilly mod shafts look beefier and being able to swap them locally (vs shipping back to BAP) will probably be worth the $60 cost difference in the long run.

The bigger question - with Extended Length CVs and a 3" front lift, will a diff drop still be required/desired? I'd prefer NOT to drop the diff if at all possible.

I bought a pair of TO8043ET from O'Reilly for $258.99 each - local limited lifetime made more sense to me that saving money but having to ship back replacements/wait

Plus, found this info on Rock Auto's site:

If you are having trouble choosing the correct Trakmotive part, or experiencing issues during or after installation of this part, Trakmotive's ASE Certified Technicians are available to help answer your questions.

Phone: 1-855-831-9444 (8:00am-4:30pm CST M-F)
Email: [email protected]

octanejunkie · 02-21-2022, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

I bought a pair of TO8043ET from O'Reilly for $258.99 each - local limited lifetime made more sense to me that saving money but having to ship back replacements/wait

Plus, found this info on Rock Auto's site:

If you are having trouble choosing the correct Trakmotive part, or experiencing issues during or after installation of this part, Trakmotive's ASE Certified Technicians are available to help answer your questions.

Phone: 1-855-831-9444 (8:00am-4:30pm CST M-F)

Email: [email protected]

Install was a breeze, I put the nut on backwards and pounded them in with an 8# dead low hammer; 2-3 whacks is all it took.

I didn't swap c-clips but I did grease them and installed the axles into the diff gap up.

Removing them is going to be curious as there is only a flimsy dust ring, nothing to pry on like the factory axles.

Also, the 40mm axle nut went too deep on the axle shaft, passing the cotter pin hole in the axle by 1/8" plus

Extended/High articulation CV Axle-pxl_20220220_213604482-jpg

Extended/High articulation CV Axle-pxl_20220220_213604482-jpg

Rather than go get washers I reused the 35mm Toyota factory nut and castle cap, torqued to 174# with my buddy on the brake pedal and installed a cotter pin and wrapped it up.

Extended/High articulation CV Axle-pxl_20220220_215058930-jpg

Extended/High articulation CV Axle-pxl_20220220_215058930-jpg

Anyone want to buy a 40mm 1/2" impact socket cheap? Lol

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shadow247 · 02-21-2022, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Install was a breeze, I put the nut on backwards and pounded them in with an 8# dead low hammer; 2-3 whacks is all it took.

I didn't swap c-clips but I did grease them and installed the axles into the diff gap up.

Removing them is going to be curious as there is only a flimsy dust ring, nothing to pry on like the factory axles.

Also, the 40mm axle nut went too deep on the axle shaft, passing the cotter pin hole in the axle by 1/8" plus

[ATTAH]392904[/ATTACH]

Rather than go get washers I reused the 35mm Toyota factory nut and castle cap, torqued to 174# with my buddy on the brake pedal and installed a cotter pin and wrapped it up.

[ATTAH]392905[/ATTACH]

Anyone want to buy a 40mm 1/2" impact socket cheap? Lol

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

I always reuse the OEM Nut/Cage even with the Non-OEM axles. Haven't had an issue yet on either rig.

Does anyone know if these will fit with some of the larger body coils? I saw the thread on Tacomawolrd where the guy had some contact with the CV/Shock, but seems like it was alignment related. I'm going to be pushing my caster into the 4.0 territory to clear some meaty tires eventually, don't want to have issues.

cl4Rk · 02-21-2022, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadow247

Does anyone know if these will fit with some of the larger body coils? I saw the thread on Tacomawolrd where the guy had some contact with the CV/Shock, but seems like it was alignment related. I'm going to be pushing my caster into the 4.0 territory to clear some meaty tires eventually, don't want to have issues.

Both 5100s and 6112s seem to fit fine, although that's with stock UCAs, so that might not be relevant to your application. The photos might help you visualize, though.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3695919-post39.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3695987-post40.html

octanejunkie · 02-21-2022, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl4Rk

Both 5100s and 6112s seem to fit fine, although that's with stock UCAs, so that might not be relevant to your application. The photos might help you visualize, though.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3695919-post39.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3695987-post40.html

Once I install the cam eliminators, I will set my rear cam plate outboard (+) and my front plate neutral (0) and my UBJ to "E" to get good positive caster, then take it for an alignment.

Gotta weld on my PCK first tho...

I get the same 1"-ish clearance between the shock body and CV shaft.

I centered the UBJ in the slot in the UCA per SPCs instructions but it looks like it needs to move inward. Until I set up the LCAs tho, it's gonna be what it's gonna be - at least it's not my DD at this point.

Romeo1 · 02-22-2022, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octanejunkie

Install was a breeze, I put the nut on backwards and pounded them in with an 8# dead low hammer; 2-3 whacks is all it took.

I didn't swap c-clips but I did grease them and installed the axles into the diff gap up.

Removing them is going to be curious as there is only a flimsy dust ring, nothing to pry on like the factory axles.

Also, the 40mm axle nut went too deep on the axle shaft, passing the cotter pin hole in the axle by 1/8" plus

Attachment 392904

Rather than go get washers I reused the 35mm Toyota factory nut and castle cap, torqued to 174# with my buddy on the brake pedal and installed a cotter pin and wrapped it up.

Attachment 392905

Anyone want to buy a 40mm 1/2" impact socket cheap? Lol

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Removal is done by hitting the shaft stub with a big dead blow to separate. No need to pry.

ETA, obviously undo the 4 LBJ bolts underneath also….