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Old 05-05-2021, 01:38 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine View Post
If he removes his rear drive shaft and drives it with 4wd selected then for sure the front drive shaft will be in use.
very true.
I dont think it is front drive shaft related.....what about wheel bearings ? If the shaking is that bad, wouldnt you be able to feel it in the ujoints without taking off the drive shaft...just grabbing hold of it at the ujoints and moving...or try to move....that always worked for me. I always manually rock/move/shake u joints when I am greesing a rig. Maybe that double joint is harder to tell.
In the 6 years I have had 4runners I only have had one really worn ujoint and that was the one right at the rear axel. Of course a lot depends on age, upkeep, and how hard it is played.
just thinking out loud...and dont really know...if the rear pinion bearing is going out, could that cause the vibration ?
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Old 05-05-2021, 01:51 PM #17
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Last time this happen to me one of my tires was bad.
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Old 05-05-2021, 02:00 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alumarine View Post
If he removes his rear drive shaft and drives it with 4wd selected then for sure the front drive shaft will be in use.
You're missing the point.

He's having vibrations right now in 2wd. That means the front drive shaft isn't moving since it's rear wheel drive, and it isn't the issue since it's stationary. Putting it in 4wd would potentially make it an issue since the front drive shaft would then be spinning. Your trying to eliminate a 2wd vibration issue...not a 4wd vibration issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
very true.
I dont think it is front drive shaft related.....what about wheel bearings ? If the shaking is that bad, wouldnt you be able to feel it in the ujoints without taking off the drive shaft...just grabbing hold of it at the ujoints and moving...or try to move....that always worked for me. I always manually rock/move/shake u joints when I am greesing a rig. Maybe that double joint is harder to tell.
In the 6 years I have had 4runners I only have had one really worn ujoint and that was the one right at the rear axel. Of course a lot depends on age, upkeep, and how hard it is played.
just thinking out loud...and dont really know...if the rear pinion bearing is going out, could that cause the vibration ?
Front wheel bearing going out will have a whine or low howl to them, and rears you'll see diff fluid on the wheels. Front might not cause much vibration, and the rears you'll feel in the seat. You can jack up the front and give the wheels a spin. If they're bad you'll it, but shouldn't make the vehicle shake violently. It could also be a CV that's bone dry, and about to break. I've had that happen to me, and it was pretty violent on the highway.

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Old 05-05-2021, 02:28 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Stroked View Post
What you're doing is the very definition of "throwing parts at a problem." I never recommend that. I would get the truck up on a lift and do some serious poking and prodding underneath before you waste any more money. For instance, you said your steering rack was starting to leak. I'd take a close look at both the rack and the mounting bushings.

Yes and normally i wouldn’t do this but all the things that i am replacing would have to be replaced in the near future anyways. those brake calipers had almost 200k on them so it was probably a good thing to change anyways. I replaced my steering rack bushings when i bought the car 7 months ago.


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Old 05-05-2021, 02:30 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donkability View Post
Last time this happen to me one of my tires was bad.

that’s a good point. i recently installed the camber/caster eliminating kit. i have kind of bad wear on my front tires. i’ll try rotating front to back and see if that makes a difference


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Old 05-05-2021, 02:33 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
Make sure your front brake caliper isn't loose.
Make sure your brake shoes aren't loose.
Make sure the rear trailing arms are tight.
Remove your driveshaft and check the u-joints.
Your vibrations could be due to a change of pinion angle while braking and accelerating.
If u-joints check out, check next in line which are trans mounts and motor mounts.

i was very thorough when installing the new brakes. torqued everything to spec... i’ll double check my brake shoes but my parking brake is solid. will check on the driveshaft.. recently replaced trans mount and engine mounts look good


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Old 05-05-2021, 02:48 PM #22
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Another way to troubleshoot front wheel bearing growl/vib is to step on the brake ever so slightly.
If it goes quiet when the brake gets applied you found the issue.
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Old 05-05-2021, 03:21 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife View Post
Another way to troubleshoot front wheel bearing growl/vib is to step on the brake ever so slightly.
If it goes quiet when the brake gets applied you found the issue.
That works when the bearings are just starting to go out. I had a bearing that failed pretty quick that was still growling and shaking even when the brakes were being applied.
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Old 05-06-2021, 06:55 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanroyse View Post
today it started to shake when decelerating and accelerating slowly. when i accelerated quickly it wouldn’t shake at all. which led me to believe it was a seized caliper... i but the bullet and did the tundra brake upgrade and it still does the shaking.... i guess i’ll replace the LCA bushings next.


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What was the condition of the hub when you put the new rotor on? If the rotor mounting surface on the hub is pitted, rusty, and beat up the issue is that the new rotor will never sit perfectly flat against the hub. Think about it, if the rotor can't sit flat it is technically warped the second you bolt on the wheel. High/hot spots form on the rotor very quickly and then it will feel like a warped rotor. Take the rotors back off, clean up the hub surface with a wire wheel, and resurface the rotor if you can. I have cleaned up rotors before with those resurfacing hones that you chuck into a drill and they work really good. If the rotor was cocked on the hub by a fraction the brake pad material was definitely laid onto the rotor unevenly, and that is why you feel the wobble. How did those hubs look?
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Old 05-06-2021, 08:54 PM #25
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Pull up on the hand brake when going about 30mph and come to a complete stop. If you feel vibration, it's in the rear. Handbrake completely removes front braking from the equation.

If you have a front bearing going bad you'll be able to hear it more on one side or the other while turning. The outer wheel will, depending on which way you turn be the loudest if that bearing is failing.

If you can be a little more specific as to the type of vibration it can help narrow down the location. You said no brake pedal vibration, but are you feeling a wobble in the steering wheel? Does the vibration come from the front or does it feel like it's coming from under your butt?
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Old 05-07-2021, 01:05 AM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtDrift View Post
Pull up on the hand brake when going about 30mph and come to a complete stop. If you feel vibration, it's in the rear. Handbrake completely removes front braking from the equation.

If you have a front bearing going bad you'll be able to hear it more on one side or the other while turning. The outer wheel will, depending on which way you turn be the loudest if that bearing is failing.

If you can be a little more specific as to the type of vibration it can help narrow down the location. You said no brake pedal vibration, but are you feeling a wobble in the steering wheel? Does the vibration come from the front or does it feel like it's coming from under your butt?

i guess the most noticeable place that the vibration is coming from is the dashboard. but the whole car shakes so much i feel like other people on the road can see it... lol


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Old 05-07-2021, 03:58 AM #27
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Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Old 05-07-2021, 06:37 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanroyse View Post
Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Partially frozen caliper. Time for a new or rebuilt one.
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Old 05-07-2021, 06:59 AM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanroyse View Post
Okay so i made a little discovery tonight when checking the contacting surfaces on the hubs.. when i jack the front of the car up, the passenger side wheel spins freely... however the driver side does not. it has a lot of resistance because of the brake pads contacting the rotors. if i compress the brake pistons the wheel spins freely but the second i tap the brakes it gets stuck again. it’s not loosing pressure when the brake petal is not being pressed. if that makes sense... all the other wheels are fine.... what could this be?


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Partially frozen caliper. Time for a new or rebuilt one.
Totally....caliper problem. Didn't you just put new calipers on though?
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Old 05-07-2021, 07:36 AM #30
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Totally....caliper problem. Didn't you just put new calipers on though?
Sadly "bad out of the box" is not too uncommon.
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