11-06-2022, 12:49 AM
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#16
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I am getting a P1120 code which my Blue Driver says:
Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Coolant Flow control ValvePosition Sensor Circuit
Does this mean I should look at the PPS now? Not sure If I could even get one of those.
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11-08-2022, 10:01 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4runner970
Hey!
Any updates on your issue/ fix after this long?
I just began having the same exact issue about two weeks ago, where I found myself stranded on the side of the road at an idle with no throttle response. The VSC , TRAC, and CEL all turned on at the moment I lost throttle. I cycled the ignition once by shutting off and starting the car, and it seemed to fix the problem. After getting home and doing a few test drives, the same throttle cut-out issue was happening under acceleration and load.
After some quick searching I decided to order a new 4 prong TPS from Aisan part#(89452-35030). This is the cheapest way around changing the TPS without changing the whole Throttle Body on a 2001-2002.
All of my check engine lights went off, and the issue seemed to be fixed for about a week, until it came back this evening on the drive home.
My only other idea for this very specific issue is a throttle body replacement, possibly a used one off of a junked 2001 SR5.
I am getting a P1120 code which my Blue Driver says: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Coolant Flow control ValvePosition Sensor Circuit
Does this mean I should look at the PPS now? Not sure If I could even get one of those
Any updates at all since doing it in 2021 would be GREATLY appreciated!
thanks!!
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Sorry to hear you’re having this problem! After replacing the throttle body, the power loss never returned. I had a code about a month later (but no power loss) and that was it. I haven’t had any issues since and it’s been about 14 months.
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04-17-2023, 10:30 PM
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#18
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The power loss is back along with code P1126. If anybody has made progress on this please let me know. I’m going to take it to a shop to try to diagnose.
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04-18-2023, 07:30 AM
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#19
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In for the updates....my 2002 has shown similar symptoms over the past year, but the power always comes back within a second or two.
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04-18-2023, 10:21 PM
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#21
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Yea I hear ya....thought mechanically it all makes sense. That being said, I've got two other project cars and this is my daily....not trying to get that far into it....
I wonder if you could just take it to a Toyota shop and tell them it needs a timing belt and a new crank cog. Dont even give them the opportunity to attempt to diagnose the issue for you.
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04-19-2023, 10:46 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Trying to figure this out
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Wow, I too never saw a crank key wear like that too.
If your looking into that, the cause in your situation, I highly doubt that caused your P1126 as engine timing and throttle body magnetic clutch circuit are 2 different areas.
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04-19-2023, 12:02 PM
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#24
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A cog or key issue I don't think that'd be intermittent. I do know that a bad/intermittent ground can raise cane.
There is a grounding bundle attached to intake behind engine dianostic port that if loose will cause these symptoms.
My case was loose from VC job, that'd be first place I'd look. Don't just check tightness check for corrosion their dissimilar metals sand em clean.
All I got.
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04-19-2023, 12:15 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruenegenes
The power loss is back along with code P1126. If anybody has made progress on this please let me know. I’m going to take it to a shop to try to diagnose.
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That's an extremely uncommon code. I had to look it up in the FSM and this is what it says:
DTC P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Magnetic clutch is mounted between the throttle motor and the valve, and it connects the throttle motor with the throttle valve. Therefore, the throttle motor opens and closes the throttle valve through the magnetic clutch. If the electric throttle control system has a malfunction, the magnetic clutch separates the throttle motor from the throttle valve in order not to operate the throttle valve by the throttle motor. If this DTC is stored, the ECM shuts down the power for the throttle motor and the magnetic clutch, and the throttle valve is fully closed by the return spring. However, the opening angle of the throttle valve can be controlled by the accelerator pedal through the
throttle cable.
Sounds like your throttle body motor is to blame, or at least the ECU thinks so. I think a shop will just result in throwing parts at it as I don't know where to even begin diagnosing this one without throwing parts at it.
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04-19-2023, 12:44 PM
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#26
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@ gamefreakgc
, thats exactly what happens goes into limp mode pedal to floor gets you 30-35 mph.
With it coming and going I don't see it being a bad motor maybe on it's way. That don't jive completely.
Any/most shops would love seeing this show up throw parts at it big bill.
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04-21-2023, 01:16 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96RedRunner
A cog or key issue I don't think that'd be intermittent. I do know that a bad/intermittent ground can raise cane.
There is a grounding bundle attached to intake behind engine dianostic port that if loose will cause these symptoms.
My case was loose from VC job, that'd be first place I'd look. Don't just check tightness check for corrosion their dissimilar metals sand em clean.
All I got.
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I appreciate the suggestion. I had already inspected and cleaned the grounds in the engine compartment. When the problem came back I removed and inspected that particular bundle. It was fine.
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04-21-2023, 01:17 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc
That's an extremely uncommon code. I had to look it up in the FSM and this is what it says:
DTC P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Magnetic clutch is mounted between the throttle motor and the valve, and it connects the throttle motor with the throttle valve. Therefore, the throttle motor opens and closes the throttle valve through the magnetic clutch. If the electric throttle control system has a malfunction, the magnetic clutch separates the throttle motor from the throttle valve in order not to operate the throttle valve by the throttle motor. If this DTC is stored, the ECM shuts down the power for the throttle motor and the magnetic clutch, and the throttle valve is fully closed by the return spring. However, the opening angle of the throttle valve can be controlled by the accelerator pedal through the
throttle cable.
Sounds like your throttle body motor is to blame, or at least the ECU thinks so. I think a shop will just result in throwing parts at it as I don't know where to even begin diagnosing this one without throwing parts at it.
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I appreciate the info. I had replaced the throttle body with a new OEM part.
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04-21-2023, 01:21 PM
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#29
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Update: I took it to a dealership for the first time yesterday and by the time they got, it had thrown a new code, P1129, which I guess is kind of encouraging because the procedure in the shop manual for this code is to replace the ECM which I was considering anyway. I found them refurbished by these folks for $255. It’s either try it or sell the vehicle. I’m gonna give it a try. By the way, the problem is gone again :-)
2002 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L - PCM ECM ECU | 89666-35591 | Flagship One
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04-21-2023, 04:46 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gruenegenes
Update: I took it to a dealership for the first time yesterday and by the time they got, it had thrown a new code, P1129, which I guess is kind of encouraging because the procedure in the shop manual for this code is to replace the ECM which I was considering anyway. I found them refurbished by these folks for $255. It’s either try it or sell the vehicle. I’m gonna give it a try. By the way, the problem is gone again :-)
2002 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L - PCM ECM ECU | 89666-35591 | Flagship One
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Last thought, any visible damage in the wiring (cracking, peeling, severe discoloration of wire sheathing) from the plug on the throttle body to main engine harness? Any splicing or hackjobs visible further down the wiring harness?
A simple inspection of the ECU may be enough to tell. It's easy to get to, just pop the glove box out by taking out the 10mm bolts and it's two screws to get the ECU out. Then you can remove the cover and look for any black marks or discoloration revealing a short or a damaged/leaking capacitor (the tall battery looking things).
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