[trader]

Wire harness fried going into tailgate..wires are hard, broken and some are stripped of insulation. Not a good fit for a solder/wire redo.....unless harness is out of Vehicle...if at all...Fuse Power 30 A is done as well ...tried to take it out but pink casing crumbled...so that will be another challenge to free contacts for new fuse...

Never replaced a harness and really do not not know how to proceed..any ideas. thx in advance. trdr.

[Nelsonmd]

Why are the wires broken? It's too young for the insulation to harden and crack off. I think replacing the harness would be expensive (looks like about a $200 part) and difficult (unless you are talking just the local door harness and not the ones that goes into the rest of the body). I would recommend cutting out the section of wire and soldering or crimping in new wires. Cut the wires back as far as you need to be able to fit the joints in, I know that harness is really tightly fit in places.

Pics would help.

[trader]

Originally Posted by Nelsonmd

Why are the wires broken? It's too young for the insulation to harden and crack off. I think replacing the harness would be expensive (looks like about a $200 part) and difficult (unless you are talking just the local door harness and not the ones that goes into the rest of the body). I would recommend cutting out the section of wire and soldering or crimping in new wires. Cut the wires back as far as you need to be able to fit the joints in, I know that harness is really tightly fit in places.

Pics would help.

Thanks for respond..I will take some pics this morning...

[trader]

Originally Posted by trader

Thanks for respond..I will take some pics this morning...

https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...fDZ5o&sadssc=1

As U can see...I don't think I have enough wire to crimp/solder in new connections...not sure how far into the door the wires are exposed/fried....it must have been a slow process at the beginning bcs it discharged the battery without blowing the 30 Amp fuse responsible for (Powerwindows/power back window/powerlocks etc.). Off course now the fuse is history....

[trader]

Help... need info how best to replace harness leading into rear-hatch door. 2000 4 runner.. see picture.

[Aelfwine]

Looks to me like its totally fixable, if its the only spot that is damaged.

[trader]

it is fixable by solder and splicing..but i wonder how a complete new replacement harness is wound through the rear hatch door ...

[nissanh]

Remove the hatch panel and then take off the metal cover. Now you can see the ends of that wire harness attached to two wire plugs. Remove those.

Inside the hatch frame, this wire harness is mounted in two places, just remove those.

NOw remove the rear cargo lamp and its housing. Also remove the driver side cargo side panel (just enough to access the wire harness). Then you can slowly lower the cargo lamp area panel.
Then slowly bring down the hood liner. Use some kind of a supporting lever to make some space so you can access the wire harness.

Also remove the hatch top mounted brake lamp. Then to its bulb holder, attach a long wire (about 3-4 feet).

Now you have to pull the wire that is inside the hatch from the top (near the hinge).

Once you take the 3rd brake lamp wires out. Disconnect the 3-4 feet wire from the holder.

YOu can slowly lift the plastic rings attached to the roof area and the hatch area.

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by nissanh

Remove the hatch panel and then take off the metal cover. Now you can see the ends of that wire harness attached to two wire plugs. Remove those.

Inside the hatch frame, this wire harness is mounted in two places, just remove those.

NOw remove the rear cargo lamp and its housing. Also remove the driver side cargo side panel (just enough to access the wire harness). Then you can slowly lower the cargo lamp area panel.
Then slowly bring down the hood liner. Use some kind of a supporting lever to make some space so you can access the wire harness.

Also remove the hatch top mounted brake lamp. Then to its bulb holder, attach a long wire (about 3-4 feet).

Now you have to pull the wire that is inside the hatch from the top (near the hinge).

Once you take the 3rd brake lamp wires out. Disconnect the 3-4 feet wire from the holder.

YOu can slowly lift the plastic rings attached to the roof area and the hatch area.

Hood liner? heh, I've heard all the limey terms for car parts, they of course don't have a hood, they have a bonnet. Never heard that one though, goes to show you there's always a first time.

Good advice on how to go about fixing it too!

[trader]

thx nissanh...ill give it a shot....but seems to be a tricky job....

[trader]

Originally Posted by nissanh

Remove the hatch panel and then take off the metal cover. Now you can see the ends of that wire harness attached to two wire plugs. Remove those.

Inside the hatch frame, this wire harness is mounted in two places, just remove those.

NOw remove the rear cargo lamp and its housing. Also remove the driver side cargo side panel (just enough to access the wire harness). Then you can slowly lower the cargo lamp area panel.
Then slowly bring down the hood liner. Use some kind of a supporting lever to make some space so you can access the wire harness.

Also remove the hatch top mounted brake lamp. Then to its bulb holder, attach a long wire (about 3-4 feet).

Now you have to pull the wire that is inside the hatch from the top (near the hinge).

Once you take the 3rd brake lamp wires out. Disconnect the 3-4 feet wire from the holder.

YOu can slowly lift the plastic rings attached to the roof area and the hatch area.

thx nissanh...ill give it a shot....but seems to be a tricky job....

[mechanic80]

I was looking for the wire harness connector for the rear hatch and, thank you, I found it. But I don't think all that is worth the effort since the reason I was looking for the information is if I should replace a slightly wrinkled tailgate. I'll take it to a body shop instead.

[FD7683]

I was able to fix this issue with the 4Runner today. Unfortunately it didn't fix my "door open" light issue but it did bring back the defroster option which is great. It was much easier to remove the entire harness off the 4Runner and solder it at home with brand new wire. Overall medium level job if dedication is there.