No, that wouldn't do it. I tried aftermarket knock sensors once that failed within weeks. They will throw the P0325 code but does not affect anything at idle or startup, the ECU just dials in maximum timing retard to protect the engine. It will still start just like normal, just be down on power.

4runner

Here is a video. In the video it sounds like a clacking noise but in person it's a lower frequency and it's from the exhaust. This is idling at 1200 rpms and If I put it in gear it kills.

Sounds like an exhaust leak; shaking looks like a misfire.

I have the exhaust removed after and the sound is exhaust blowing into the cat side of the exhaust.

What would be your explanation of the misfire with no cel?

It sure does look like either the timing is off or the spark plug wiring is all messed up. The rhythmic stumble sounds to me like it's firing wrong on every stroke.

Ooo, that is rough. You plugs could be toast with soot from rough idling. What are your LTFT and STFT readings?
Have you tried troubleshooting with a vacuum gauge? It can be a great tool in seeing what the engine is doing while running rough. Could help with the direction onto where to look at.
The parts stores used to rent these but, I can't find the tool number now.

Edit: You can't get the ltft/stft readings if the engine hasn't fully warmed up and is in open loop.

It is a very rhythmic-sounding misfire. This suggests a major timing issue or 1-4 cylinders are misfiring. Even when enhancing the audio to the video the speed of the shaking and number of misses sounds more like it is specific to certain cylinders.

There are several ways to easily test if it is cylinder-specific or if it is something more major.

1) Get a laser temperature reader and test the heat at each of the bases of the exhaust manifold for every cylinder to see if there are any noticeable discrepencies between each cylinder (1-30 degrees is likely acceptable in this test) 50+ is a major misfire coming from that cylinder. I would strongly recommend this test if you can get your hands on one.

2) Pull fuel injector wires 1 at a time (plug them back in as you continue to test the other ones) If you pull one and the vehicle is running the exact same, you have an issue with that cylinder's spark/fuel.

3) pulling plug wires/plugs one at a time.


What worries me is that the thing is dying when you put it in gear. When I burnt up 4 spark plugs after unknowingly overheating the vehicle with dash issues, I was able to drive home up a fairly steep hill on 2 cylinders (Confirmed at home with laser temp reader).

Your 180 PSI in all cylinders made me want to think that timing wasn't the issue, but there is still a chance. Did you double check the timing after you put tension on the timing belt tensioner? I have had it be off time 1-3 teeth if I neglected to tension the belt as I set the timing.

Best of luck!

I'll get a laser temperature reader, give these things a try and post back.



When I last confirmed my timing, I rotated the crank about 7 times to be positive that everything was lined correctly.

Thank you for your help.

Just as several other members have saved my bacon on this forum, I'll be glad to help you out where I can.

Hopefully this will help you to start narrowing a few possibilities. I was having serious issues with my ECU communicating with some of the sensors along with malfunctioning throttle body sensors when I put everything back together. My runner did not run (haha) until I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECU and put dialectic grease on all of my clips going to it. I also cleaned a few throttle body sensors to make it be able to idle on its own. My truck was sitting for roughly 4 years during all this restoration work, so I wouldn't be so apt to think you would have those same issues.

From everything I am seeing, you have the timing assembly set up correctly. Did you allow the tensioner to push the tensioner pulley tight before you went and torqued the tensioner pulley bolt? You would have wanted to do this with several rotations of the timing assembly before torquing that bolt down.

I found one of my pictures of the barebones timing assembly, so compare to all of your pictures very closely and see if everything matches up.
Shared album - Travis - Google Photos

Here is a tiny bit better look at the cams
Shared album - Travis - Google Photos

Good luck!

I stopped at AutoZone and picked up a laser thermometer. All of my cylinders at the exhaust manifold are within 10-15 degrees of each other, driver side being the side that is 10-15 degrees higher.

I don't have those readings but I believe I can get them with the Scangauge ii if I can find the xgauge commands somewhere online.

I have not tried using a vacuum gauge. It seems that I could get some useful info from performing that test. I will see if I can find a part store with a loaner or purchase one.

Thanks for the to tip

I'm no photo expert, but this doesn't seem to be distortion to me.

In my experience even 1 tooth of an exciter ring or trigger wheel can devastate a system. ABS systems or ignition systems

Attached Images

 

OP already check it on post 27, and reported it as pic distortion.

Zero tooth is the one with the red paint.
The 3rd tooth to the right of zero tooth IS physically still there but, it does seems like it is missing a angular chunk on the TOP of it.

From the top of the engine looking down to the crank sprocket could look fine as it seems like the same shape with the ones before and after it.

It could be possible to see that missing chunk by looking at it from the front of the engine straight on as it will be a smuge shorter (than the ones to the left and right of it) because of that missing chunk.

I know the engine is all buttoned up. Would it be possible to snap another pic on the 3rd tooth from the front straight on? Need to confirm showing the height of it?

If that tooth doesn't look symmetrical (height wise) like the 2nd tooth or the 4th tooth beside it, your engine will not run right and could explain the rhythmic miss and misfiring though the exhaust. That shorter tooth is cutting the signal to the coils for a fraction of a second and turning it back on.

That missing tooth will cut the signal to the ecm when is sees that shorter 3rd tooth, and turn it back on when is sees the 4th tooth, 5th tooth, etc and so on.

Attached Images

   

and yet here we are...pointing out exactly what I already mentioned....

So I grabbed a vacuum gauge and here are my results.

From cold start.
Shared album - Aaron Soniat - Google Photos

Operating temperature
Shared album - Aaron Soniat - Google Photos

I guess I'm going to order a new sprocket and tear it back down... Like one of you said, that tooth may have looked fine from my point of view when I double checked. I didn't take it off completely, the last time I confirmed the hard marks. Would this be the recommendation of the experienced?