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Old 05-23-2021, 11:58 AM #16
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I had exactly your symptoms and previous owner did too even though he replaced head and headgasket in the course of ownership.

Has a new radiator, did multiple flushes of cooling system. As soon as I changed out my mevotech thermostat for OEM and it fixed instantly.

My next course of action was going to be changing the fan clutch- its about $100. Good timmy the toolman vid talking about symptoms, which are what we have described here, just like thermostat.

Good luck! If it were me I would just get the oem parts and take it to a guy locally and have them install before the trip. It would take me 4 times as long as a competent mechanic.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:31 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverAirport View Post
I got the head gaskets done at a shop, I didn't do that job myself. Tough because while the shop I go to are honest and nice guys and have helped me with everything I can do in my current garage-less state, I don't know how well they'll take to my asking them to pull the motor apart and check to see if they did this wrong.
You can take it back to the shop that did the work and tell them the car is running hot. They will have to recheck it as a "come back" and you shouldn't be charged. Also check your coolant temp sensor. It could be afoul and giving you the wrong readings.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:35 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tathambenjamin View Post
I had exactly your symptoms and previous owner did too even though he replaced head and headgasket in the course of ownership.

Has a new radiator, did multiple flushes of cooling system. As soon as I changed out my mevotech thermostat for OEM and it fixed instantly.

My next course of action was going to be changing the fan clutch- its about $100. Good timmy the toolman vid talking about symptoms, which are what we have described here, just like thermostat.

Good luck! If it were me I would just get the oem parts and take it to a guy locally and have them install before the trip. It would take me 4 times as long as a competent mechanic.

Thanks -- yeah like I mentioned in the post I already did the fan clutch and replaced the thermostat. I used that Timmy video for the fan clutch replacement, was a bit of an annoying task but got it done without a problem! Sadly neither of these things has done the trick so far.
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Old 05-23-2021, 05:37 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
You can take it back to the shop that did the work and tell them the car is running hot. They will have to recheck it as a "come back" and you shouldn't be charged. Also check your coolant temp sensor. It could be afoul and giving you the wrong readings.
Going to look into replacing the sensor. To be honest I think it also depends on the results of a compression test. If I'm getting bad indicators from a compression test I feel like that could be a clear enough sign the engine work needs to be redone.
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:02 PM #20
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If you think you might have air in the system, these are cheap, easy and WORK.

Amazon.com: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators: Automotive

Also a very easy way to tell if your thermostat is cycling. Just overfill the coolant in the funnel and let the truck idle.
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:10 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverAirport View Post
That makes sense. Thanks for this -- super insightful I didn't even consider that impact of air near the sensor. Are there any risks when moving heat into the radiator like that? I'm assuming you're suggesting that because that's less of an issue with an aluminum radiator. But are there any other potential risks?
No risks, you want the heat moving into the radiator as then the air moving through the front of the vehicle can cool it off. A hot radiator doesn't harm your engine, a hot cylinder head does. As much energy in the form of heat you can get either out the exhaust or into the passing air via the radiator, the better.
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:25 PM #22
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So today I noticed that my alternator was whining -- it likely may have been doing so for the last few weeks but in all honesty I didn't really notice it. Is it possible that a failing alternator has somehow led to this increase in coolant temp?
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:57 PM #23
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I really doubt it if you aren't experiencing any other electrical problems
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Old 05-25-2021, 07:53 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverAirport View Post
So today I noticed that my alternator was whining -- it likely may have been doing so for the last few weeks but in all honesty I didn't really notice it. Is it possible that a failing alternator has somehow led to this increase in coolant temp?
No, alternator would only affect that ability to charge the battery. Even if the alternator pulley belt failed it would only affect the alternator and nothing else.

P.S. check your battery.
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Old 05-25-2021, 09:08 PM #25
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Quote:
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No, alternator would only affect that ability to charge the battery. Even if the alternator pulley belt failed it would only affect the alternator and nothing else.

P.S. check your battery.

My voltage is fluctuating a bit, but not enough for it to be a major concern. Not having any obvious trouble starting or anything -- could be a bearing wearing out. Picked up a Desno one and I plan on putting it in on Saturday.

Back to the temp problem: I brought my car to the dealership to get their opinion and they pointed out to me that you can see the tabs on the passenger side noting that the headgasket was done correctly (the sides are market on the back of the heads, if the job is done incorrectly you don't see the marks.) So I'm somewhat relieved by that.

They also said that I'm totally safe under 220 and that 210 is more than normal for this vehicle. That said, they also pointed out that the timing belt area was generating some noise and that the idler may need to be replaced (they quoted me $775 so I thanked them and left lol) -- wondering if this could be caused by a water pump issue? I had my timing belt and water pump replaced with the engine work so that would surprise me...
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Old 05-25-2021, 11:47 PM #26
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You need to verify your coolant sensor reading first. The parts cannon gets kinda spendy quick, so diagnose properly.

You also need to verify that the pump is actually pumping. I know, it sounds dumb, but it can happen.
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Old 05-26-2021, 02:46 AM #27
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Quote:
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You need to verify your coolant sensor reading first. The parts cannon gets kinda spendy quick, so diagnose properly.

You also need to verify that the pump is actually pumping. I know, it sounds dumb, but it can happen.
Understood. Is there any way to verify the pump is pumping without taking off the cover / timing belt? Also curious about diagnosing coolant sensor -- I'm assuming I can pull it out and test it in water but are there any better ways of doing so?
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Old 05-26-2021, 09:52 AM #28
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I know it's a new thermostat but why not try and test it or put in a new 180.

As a rule bad water pumps either leak or seize.
They don't normally start working poorly.
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Old 05-26-2021, 12:19 PM #29
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Like alumarine said, when a water pump fails it either seizes (which will probably break your timing belt) or leaks (which should be visible coming from the front of the engine at the bottom of the timing cover. Is the thermostat OEM? I used an aftermarket thermostat for a couple weeks and saw temps around 210 before swapping to an OEM thermostat.
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Old 05-26-2021, 01:26 PM #30
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You say OEM thermostat, but where did you purchase it? It might be a knock-off.

Most of the times I have had consistently high coolant temps is when I have had leaky radiator caps. Make sure it is in good shape and the correct model for your radiator (and OEM if one fits the Champion).

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