05-25-2021, 11:15 AM
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#1
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Tire question
I have a 99 with a 3” Toytec lift with stock rims. I’m getting new tires. Sam’s has Goodyear Wrangler TrainRunner AT that seem pretty good. I’m looking at getting 265/75R16E 123R. Anyone else running this tire type and size? If so what psi do you run on road? What does that “E” after the 16 mean? Just want to make sure I know exactly what I’m getting.
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1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited 4x4 Locking rear differential 3” Toytec lift
2004 Lexus GX470
2005 Toyota 4Runner 2wd V6
2019 Toyota 4Runner TRD ORP 4x4
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05-25-2021, 11:28 AM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicar
I have a 99 with a 3” Toytec lift with stock rims. I’m getting new tires. Sam’s has Goodyear Wrangler TrainRunner AT that seem pretty good. I’m looking at getting 265/75R16E 123R. Anyone else running this tire type and size? If so what psi do you run on road? What does that “E” after the 16 mean? Just want to make sure I know exactly what I’m getting.
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If you really want to find the true PSI you need for your specific application the best way is the chalk test. Rub a bunch of chalk on your tires treads and drive around a little. If the edges of the chalk wear down and there is still chalk in the center of the tread under inflated, if there is chalk on the outside of the tread and the center is worn down over inflated. Usually I’ll just inflate my tires to what the door jamb says on my truck, might not be right for me though because I’ve added a bunch of weight in bumpers/winch etc.
Last edited by T4topher; 05-25-2021 at 11:34 AM.
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05-25-2021, 12:52 PM
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#3
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The E is the load rating of the tires. E rated tires are made for carrying a lot of weight and because of that, they will ride very stiff and not help soak up bumps like the normal C load tires that most people run on these vehicles. I wouldn't run Es.
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'99 4Runner SR5: 5VZ, 2wd, AT, 400k+ club
'94 Pickup: 2wd, 22RE, 5spd, (3RZ swap in progress)
Front: Total Chaos Uniball Kit, Fox 2.5 8'' coilover
Rear: Deaver F67 Leaf Springs, Fox 2.0 14'' Reservoir Shocks, E-locker Axle 4.88 Gears 33x10.5 BFG ATs
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05-25-2021, 01:11 PM
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#4
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I think the assumed myth here is that an E will not work, period, it will.
I run E’s on my vehicles with curb weights ranging from 4500-5500 lbs. and they’re the nicest riding ones yet.
E rated tires simply give you more headroom to inflate if you want to air up, and heavier construction.
Now I will say they do feel different at 45 PSI than my C load tires at 45 PSI. So you’ll have to test out lots of different pressures to find the sweet spot.
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05-25-2021, 01:26 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2021nightshade4x4
I think the assumed myth here is that an E will not work, period, it will.
I run E’s on my vehicles with curb weights ranging from 4500-5500 lbs. and they’re the nicest riding ones yet.
E rated tires simply give you more headroom to inflate if you want to air up, and heavier construction.
Now I will say they do feel different at 45 PSI than my C load tires at 45 PSI. So you’ll have to test out lots of different pressures to find the sweet spot.
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This ^^^
I've had E load 285/75-16 Duratrac's on my 4runner for years. Just run them at a lower pressure. They ride fine. 45k miles on them so far.
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05-25-2021, 02:36 PM
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#6
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For a daily driver E rated tires without weight or progressive shocks will make for a bumpier ride but then again you may not mind it.
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05-25-2021, 03:57 PM
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#7
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I have to run my 265/75 duratrac C ratings at 28psi, and I’m still not touching all the way across the tire. They ride nice though. These things are basically snow shoes on this little truck. I couldn’t imagine getting near 35 PSI without a load. Would ride like a skateboard.
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05-25-2021, 11:31 PM
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#8
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Don't overlook duratracs begin road whine at 35mph. If you don't mind that and want the 'look' go for it. I got tired of it when I owned a set, found Michelin LTX AT2, they perform better on and off road for me with virtually zero road noise. May not have the look but have the performance in mud, sand, rock, snow and ice.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
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05-26-2021, 09:19 PM
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#9
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I’m runnning 265/75/16 E Kanati trail hogs. You definitely feel the tire being an E. I run 35 psi on the road, and 12 to 20 Offroad depending what I’m doing. 12 may have been a little on the low side in Moab.
Still get pretty decent fuel economy aired up surprisingly for as aggressive the tire is.
There’s not a lot of choices for C rated three ply sidewalls, especially one with a snowflake rating in a 265/75/16”. I will say that the E rating is certainly overkill for it. It may or may not be tougher in the off-road side. I’ve owned umpteen sets of errata tires on trucks over the years, but this is the first time I’ve put such a heavy duty tire on a small rig.
BFG does make the AT2 in the same size in a 17 inch and C rating. The Goodyear Dura track makes one in the C, but I was really wanting a three ply sidewall.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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05-26-2021, 09:22 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467
Don't overlook duratracs begin road whine at 35mph. If you don't mind that and want the 'look' go for it. I got tired of it when I owned a set, found Michelin LTX AT2, they perform better on and off road for me with virtually zero road noise. May not have the look but have the performance in mud, sand, rock, snow and ice.
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Those are a fantastic generally use tire, and a superior highway, arguably the best there is, tire. But I can’t say I would recommend that tire for a guy who goes off-road. Any kind of mud, or snow they are going to really struggle. I’ve personally owned one set, and been around three other sets. It really comes down to what are you wanting out ofset of tires. Quiet, fuel economy, long life, they definitely check all those boxes. Off-road in traction, even in a grassy borrow pit, not so much.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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05-27-2021, 12:36 PM
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#11
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I'm currently on my first set of load E's. What I didn't realize is how hard it is to balance because of the weight.
Tires balanced multiple times before getting it right, even on a freshly calibrated coats.
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05-28-2021, 03:18 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiLife
I'm currently on my first set of load E's. What I didn't realize is how hard it is to balance because of the weight.
Tires balanced multiple times before getting it right, even on a freshly calibrated coats.
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That one depends on a lot of things. The tire itself, the wheel, and some are just better than others. Toyos tend to balance out very well. My kanati’s on the other hand, well, not so much.
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99’ Black “Highlander” sport, oak, 5VZ auto, 4.30 axle, e-lock, 265/75 Grabber X3,, Bilstein 6112 (2”) front 5160 rear shocks, OME 2906 springs, Durobumps, 4x Inovations front middle rear skid plates, 4XI square TRD tube sliders, lil skips tank skid, lotus dev RCA skids, overland custom sway bar links, Amp’d hidden winch, warn Vr Evo 10s
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05-29-2021, 12:23 PM
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#13
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Tire question
I should clarify, duratrac won because of the lack of choice on C rated tires that look good and we’re also rated well in snow. ALSO, C rated was 10-20 pounds lighter per tire, which going up to the 32” 265/75 tire was important to me. I didn’t want to make the truck much more of a slug. Probably overthinking it… but in the road bike world, you reallllly feel what rotational weigh does to acceleration.
Other than that, duratrac balance like garbage. Took back to the shop several times. Road force balancer is a must. Don’t let them tell you its just the way aggressive tires ride, maybe some really cheap tires, but not a Goodyear at $240 per tire. Out of balance tire is bull, find another shop.
Duratrac will get loud and you will feel them if you let an alignment get out of spec. Gotta be anal about that if trying to keep quiet, I just rotate when I change oil.
But, the fact I found them in the lighter c rating and that I am up snowboarding several times a week in the mtns, the snow traction is GREAT. I’m very happy with them, I just turn the volume up for the road noise. Oh, they look great, that’s half the battle
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Last edited by Its GSatt; 05-29-2021 at 12:26 PM.
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05-29-2021, 06:08 PM
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#14
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I recently got a set of Duratracs for my 19 4R in C load do to there lighter weight (better rotational weight) and better feel on the road than the E tires.
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05-30-2021, 01:37 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Its GSatt
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Other than that, duratrac balance like garbage. Took back to the shop several times. Road force balancer is a must. Don’t let them tell you its just the way aggressive tires ride, maybe some really cheap tires, but not a Goodyear at $240 per tire. Out of balance tire is bull, find another shop.
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Yes they are difficult. 3 different discount tires could not balance mine from the beginning. Tried over about 18 months, they finally gave up and provided me a full credit towards a different set of tires.
Oh yeah and the 'wawawawa' sounds is mind numbing starting at 35mph is really annoying. Mine got 2 flats out at my deer lease, where as my current ltx at2 michelins have zero driving the very same terrain, go figure....glad they're working for ya.
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2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
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