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Old 06-10-2021, 04:10 PM #16
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Originally Posted by DreadPirateJon View Post
Ive replaced all of the front and rear lines (not the one running to the rear though) with OEMs and they were super cheap. Like 6 bucks a piece.
Yes I use OEM lines because of their costs is reasonable. I paint them thoroughly when before putting them in and try to keep them covered with rust inhibitors.

If I had to make lines.. I would use nick copper lines with Stainless still Flange Nuts. That way you never have to worry about those lines ever again they cant rust up.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:13 PM #17
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Originally Posted by DreadPirateJon View Post
This is the one spot I have left to fix on my frame (Besides for about the hitch, which seeing as Im towing like 5k I probably should have also fixed) Just haven't been looking forward to fighting all those rusty bolts to drop the tank.
Start soaking.. Most will come out.. Most likely the skid plate frame bolt will snap off.. The gas tank strap bolt will snap off no matter what you do. As All of my 3 both those snapped off as they rusted and swelled in the nuts.

The two rear skid plate bolts are a 50/50 of coming out and snapping.
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:18 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post

6 to 7 years ago I couldn't weld at all. Now I can completely rebuld the frames.
I can relate. On my 96 I just replaced both rear coil bucket brackets on the frame. Had to pull the axle and weld a new cover on it as well. If these trucks are going to stay on the road, welding becomes an essential skill.
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Old 06-11-2021, 09:28 AM #19
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Originally Posted by D'arce View Post
I can relate. On my 96 I just replaced both rear coil bucket brackets on the frame. Had to pull the axle and weld a new cover on it as well. If these trucks are going to stay on the road, welding becomes an essential skill.
In the rust belt yes. How the weld of new cover go? I had one of those upper coil brackets come loose after a changed the cross member. I ended up bolting it down and then weld it back in. The environment is a little hard on the steel around here.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 06-13-2021, 09:32 PM #20
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The cov er wasn't bad. I tried to do everything with the 3rd member installed but turns out I was afraid of nicking something important with the cutoff wheel. I filled the whole thing with metal while it was in there so I had to flush it with a bunch of brake cleaner and gear oil. Lesson learned. The third member weighs almost as much as the empty housing so it was definitely easier to install without it. This is all by myself so with a helper it would not be so bad.
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Old 06-28-2021, 08:21 PM #21
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Update: It is entirely possible to change the line that runs behind the gas tank without removing anything. All you have to do is jack it up by the control arm mounts so the rear axle drops down, then you have enough room to pull out the old line and fish the new one in. It took longer for me to jack up and secure the truck than it did to change the line.
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