06-15-2021, 11:40 AM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Portland, Ore.
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Suspension upgrade to get the smoothest ride?
Have done a lot of research looking around the forum about getting a smoother ride in the 3rd gen by swapping out suspension. I know my sway bar bushings are about due for replacing, and I'm noticing a lot of bumps feel much bigger than they should and it can't all be down to my 265/70R17s.
Seems like the two camps are between the Tokicos and the Bilstein 5100s. This is not an offroad rig. Forest service roads are the worst it's ever going to see so we're going for what's the cushiest, Rolls-Royce-iest ride I can squeeze out of this thing?
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2002 4Runner Limited 4WD 200K Black/Thundercloud (KG1)
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06-15-2021, 12:14 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bozeman, Montana
Age: 26
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Real Name: Roman Schnobrich
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Do you use your 4Runner for camping at all? Will it ever see heavier weight/more cargo or not really? Tokicos can be kind of stiff without any additional weight as they're valved for heavier Land Cruisers. I like mine, but I have a steel bumper and swing out with a spare 33" tire, and some might say it rides too stiff still.
Whatever you do, I'd veer away from Old Man Emu-- they're not on your list but I'll mention it just in case. Their shocks did not last over a year and a half on my 4Runner, and I don't beat it up that badly.
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2000 SR5 Midtravel Cookie Cutter Build
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06-15-2021, 12:41 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Smooth ride? Stick OEM. Everything else is stiffer. With the exception of the front shocks, OEM is not that much more expensive.
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-1996 4Runner. 3RZ 5-Spd. 4x4 Base model. OME2906/Toyota OEM rears with 2004 Tacoma Dual Rate Fronts on Bilstien 4600s.
-1993 Corolla Wagon 7AFE
-2001 Echo D.D.
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06-15-2021, 12:46 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
Smooth ride? Stick OEM. Everything else is stiffer. With the exception of the front shocks, OEM is not that much more expensive.
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Seconded.
Also make sure the ride height front and rear is around 20" (from hub center to fender lip) - if it is lower, you'll want to replace the springs to get it up around that high to keep you off the bump stops on bigger suspension hits (potholes, speed bumps, etc.).
-Charlie
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06-15-2021, 12:51 PM
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#5
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Mideast
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get the 1999-2000 4Runner Highlander shocks and coils for both front and rear
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06-15-2021, 01:16 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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Agree tokicos or bilstein hd4600 a little stiffer. Also Driving on Forest service roads will be way better if you air down to 18-20 psi also.
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06-15-2021, 01:33 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Sep 2018
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One thing that actually makes your ride pretty smooth when it hits bumps is duro bumps..
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06-15-2021, 01:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Atlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
One thing that actually makes your ride pretty smooth when it hits bumps is duro bumps..
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Yes indeed
And when the time comes to lift it get some nice monotube shocks
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06-15-2021, 01:57 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Not GX460 air suspension? LOL
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06-16-2021, 12:39 PM
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#10
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Portland, Ore.
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Going with OEMs and getting the sway bar links replaced as they're cracking. Hopefully this makes a difference, after driving it for a week it's noticeable just how bad it is.
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2002 4Runner Limited 4WD 200K Black/Thundercloud (KG1)
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06-17-2021, 10:38 PM
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#11
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Join Date: May 2021
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Suspension upgrade to get the smoothest ride?
So I was going over the quote from the regional tire/suspension shop and price checking online. Going with straight KYB OEM rec'd replacements, but they quoted me at $137 per KG9025 Gas-a-Just Strut, which is about $40 of margin vs. directly buying them online so I'm taking a moment to suss this out more.
Generally, if I just want to do the LBJs and all the suspension components that matter. I've been looking through posts and diagrams but can't work it exactly out. Here's what I'm thinking I should just replace in one big go:
- LBJs
- Struts
- Shocks
- Coils front and back
- Sway bar linkage
- Sway bar bushings
- Bump stops?
Am I missing something? This one has thrown me through a loop and I'm pressing pause until I can figure it out for myself.
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2002 4Runner Limited 4WD 200K Black/Thundercloud (KG1)
Last edited by raincoyote; 06-17-2021 at 10:51 PM.
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06-17-2021, 11:16 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raincoyote
So I was going over the quote from the regional tire/suspension shop and price checking online. Going with straight KYB OEM rec'd replacements, but they quoted me at $137 per KG9025 Gas-a-Just Strut, which is about $40 of margin vs. directly buying them online so I'm taking a moment to suss this out more.
Generally, if I just want to do the LBJs and all the suspension components that matter. I've been looking through posts and diagrams but can't work it exactly out. Here's what I'm thinking I should just replace in one big go:
- LBJs
- Struts
- Shocks
- Coils front and back
- Sway bar linkage
- Sway bar bushings
- Bump stops?
Am I missing something? This one has thrown me through a loop and I'm pressing pause until I can figure it out for myself.
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Well, it would depend about the various bushings on their condition.
I know two things.
1/ The aftermarket KYB on some models like our Subaru are stiffer than the OEM version of the same KYB shocks
2/ I failed to replace the springs on our 2008 Tribeca and have been paying the price since. Because they sag more than 0.5" on a vehicle with very little front travel, the result is a pretty nasty ride. It takes road hits in stride, but the ride quality is bad.
So, as mentioned earlier, it pays off to restore factory geometry even if it has been distorted by age rather than mods. And see if aftermarket KYBs are tuned the same as OEM.
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2018 TRD OP non-kdss, well armored, well used
(6112s/650lb at 1.25"-1.5" lift, 8100 rear with Bilstein B12 1.5" springs, Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 LTE 265 70 17, RCI set of front 3/16 skids, Shrockworks step sliders and 3/16 steel gas tank skid, C4Fab rear diff skid, Rockmen rear LCAs, Total Chaos rear LCA bracket skids, Diode Dynamics SS3 white fog lights).
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06-17-2021, 11:23 PM
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#13
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 193
Real Name: Sean
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When I overhauled my suspension, I replaced pretty much every bushing, if I didn't end up upgrading to aftermarket parts. My rig hadd 300k + on original everything.
Since you will have everything apart, I would include front and rear lower control arm bushings. Front and rear upper control arm bushings. Front upper ball joints.
Optional but recommended. I rebuilt my CV's because all my boots were torn. Steering rack bushings. Unless your current bump stops are rotted, I don't see a need to change them really, but they are very simple to change. I upgraded mine because it was needed due to my lift. Good luck.
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06-17-2021, 11:35 PM
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#14
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma
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The first thing I did with mine was new ball joints bushings links tie rods 99 springs and KYBs.
It’s not much for flex but it rides like a sedan.
I’m a 1/4” higher in the back empty. I’m going to swap out the rear with Dobinsons and Bilsteins so I can run with more weight without squat.
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06-17-2021, 11:54 PM
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#15
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Join Date: May 2021
Location: Portland, Ore.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ch1966
The first thing I did with mine was new ball joints bushings links tie rods 99 springs and KYBs.
It’s not much for flex but it rides like a sedan.
I’m a 1/4” higher in the back empty. I’m going to swap out the rear with Dobinsons and Bilsteins so I can run with more weight without squat.
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What coil springs did you go with? OEM? They're expensive as hell. Looking at Rock Auto and thinking about these AC Delco ones but wondering if I'm being a cheap bastard. The sedan ride is what I want.
@ MAST4R
and
@ RotaryDreamz
I'd be curious about your input on this too.
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