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Old 06-19-2021, 08:23 PM #46
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It sounds like you may be pushing the 4Runner platform to its limit with all the bolt on armor, gear, tires, etc. I'm all about the 4Runner but if I was going to drag all that gear and people into the back country it may be safer, more comfortable and more reliable in a heavier duty platform to start with. Just my .02.
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Old 06-20-2021, 08:06 PM #47
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Working in transport refrigeration, when I see high engine temps I immediately start with with a radiator/condenser wash-out to see if that corrects the issue. These are engines that run for hundreds of hours at a time in temps from -30F to 120F+, sometimes higher. If dirt, dust, and bugs are clogging the airflow, you're not getting efficient heat loss.

I have no idea where you'd go for a car or truck, we use a wide-spray pressure washer and Hydra-Brite acid solution on most models.

It's only been in the high 90's here, 2002 auto on 33's, front and rear ARB, Sherpa roofrack. Seeing 184 at 65 mph, 188 at idle. Both with AC on.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:20 AM #48
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What were your transmission temps doing Tim?

I received my OBDLINK MX+ yesterday.
I made an 1 1/2 hour trip in 96* degree weather (~105* intake temp. ). Lots of uphill/downhill on the interstate with the cruise set @ 81mph and AC on. I found that the trans temp would spike when the calculated load hit 65-70%. I actually hit 249* at one point when I exited the interstate and my airflow over the radiator dropped down. My water temp never went past 210*.




I came home early this morning when it was 20-25* cooler. Running no AC and doing 77 MPH. Trans temp didn’t have any major spikes.
I was shifting OD OFF both ways when the calc load hit 65% on the uphills.



I learned what I long suspected - I need a trans cooler.

My 2001 rig is basically stock with 32 inch MTs and 99 tall springs.
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Old 06-21-2021, 07:29 AM #49
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How susceptible to heat is the 4 cylinder engine assuming stock configuration

Last edited by Pyral; 06-21-2021 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 06-21-2021, 09:43 AM #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ch1966 View Post
I learned what I long suspected - I need a trans cooler.

My 2001 rig is basically stock with 32 inch MTs and 99 tall springs.
Holy crap, I gotta get a trans temp gauge.
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Old 06-21-2021, 01:56 PM #51
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Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
The radiator and cap were replaced 20k ago so I wouldn't suspect an issue with the cap. I think I'll follow your suggestion and go to a 40/60 coolant/distilled water mix.
Nevermind then! I know the rest of your cooling system is in tip-top shape.

Speaking of 117*F... That's the only time I've seen a working Toyota cooling system have troubles (on my Camry with a giant 3-row Koyo). A bit disconcerting to have your gauge look like this:



Not even 20 minute track sessions got that car to overheat - then 115*F with the AC blasting on the freeway to sudden traffic did it... Luckily I was about 2 miles from the house and I was able to turn off the AC and limp home.

-Charlie
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:03 PM #52
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The auto transmission temps r the the major contributor to the engine temp increase with the heavily (weight added) modded runners, getting heat-soak from said that is transferring to the engine. I believe may peeps r not understanding the difference between overdrive and T/C lock up. The amount of heat being introduced to the system when the auto trans is not locked is massive and when U add hills and weight to the vehicle they can quickly overcome the cooling ability of the OEM and modded cooling system if not monitored. There R any # of things one can do to help cooling (ie increased air flow, larger amounts to fluids, fans, decreasing weight, etc, etc.) After modding my 4runner (adding large amounts of weight) one of the best mods I did was to add an idiot light to show lockup, this taut me how to drive said and lower my temp massively. Removing the trans lines from the radiator and running a standalone cooler removed the trans temps being added directly to the engine coolant, the trans "cooler" on the bottom of auto rads were places there to help warm the trans fluids and bring them quickly to operating temps the trans fluid required (depending on what fluid is used these operating temps can be significantly lowered). By watching lockup my trans temp run 120-130degs on the hwy normally.

The trans lock timing and be altered by running diff gearing, with dual tcase (4.7 in one) I could get the system to lock up at 9mph on the trail.
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:20 PM #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clearock View Post
The auto transmission temps r the the major contributor to the engine temp increase with the heavily (weight added) modded runners, getting heat-soak from said that is transferring to the engine. I believe may peeps r not understanding the difference between overdrive and T/C lock up. The amount of heat being introduced to the system when the auto trans is not locked is massive and when U add hills and weight to the vehicle they can quickly overcome the cooling ability of the OEM and modded cooling system if not monitored. There R any # of things one can do to help cooling (ie increased air flow, larger amounts to fluids, fans, decreasing weight, etc, etc.) After modding my 4runner (adding large amounts of weight) one of the best mods I did was to add an idiot light to show lockup, this taut me how to drive said and lower my temp massively. Removing the trans lines from the radiator and running a standalone cooler removed the trans temps being added directly to the engine coolant, the trans "cooler" on the bottom of auto rads were places there to help warm the trans fluids and bring them quickly to operating temps the trans fluid required (depending on what fluid is used these operating temps can be significantly lowered). By watching lockup my trans temp run 120-130degs on the hwy normally.

The trans lock timing and be altered by running diff gearing, with dual tcase (4.7 in one) I could get the system to lock up at 9mph on the trail.
Manual transmissions sounding better and better!

That's a great idea of having an indicator to show TC lockup. How do you do that?
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Old 06-21-2021, 04:32 PM #54
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added and LED light to the cluster by splicing into the ECU lock-up command wire. I can also force lock up but I don't recommend said for most peeps as u can damage the T/C if not very careful
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:07 PM #55
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added and LED light to the cluster by splicing into the ECU lock-up command wire. I can also force lock up but I don't recommend said for most peeps as u can damage the T/C if not very careful
Wow. Thanks for the insight. Still playing with my new OBDLINK MX+. Found the pid and added it to my ever evolving dash.
“Status of Lock Up Sol Off/On”

Here I am unlocked before getting on the interstate. Temps up a little.



On the interstate. Achieved lock. Temps fall.



Slowing down for merging traffic. TC unlocks. Temp rises.



Achieve lock. Temps fall.



I make my exit. TC doesn’t lock in the 45mph zone.
Temps rise. Quite a bit in a mile @45mph.



It locks back up after the speed limit goes up and cools back down and I arrive at my destination.

I now have my eye on it. Thanks for your idea.

Last edited by ch1966; 06-21-2021 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Clarity
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Old 06-22-2021, 12:22 AM #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clearock View Post
The auto transmission temps r the the major contributor to the engine temp increase with the heavily (weight added) modded runners, getting heat-soak from said that is transferring to the engine. I believe may peeps r not understanding the difference between overdrive and T/C lock up. The amount of heat being introduced to the system when the auto trans is not locked is massive and when U add hills and weight to the vehicle they can quickly overcome the cooling ability of the OEM and modded cooling system if not monitored. There R any # of things one can do to help cooling (ie increased air flow, larger amounts to fluids, fans, decreasing weight, etc, etc.) After modding my 4runner (adding large amounts of weight) one of the best mods I did was to add an idiot light to show lockup, this taut me how to drive said and lower my temp massively. Removing the trans lines from the radiator and running a standalone cooler removed the trans temps being added directly to the engine coolant, the trans "cooler" on the bottom of auto rads were places there to help warm the trans fluids and bring them quickly to operating temps the trans fluid required (depending on what fluid is used these operating temps can be significantly lowered). By watching lockup my trans temp run 120-130degs on the hwy normally.

The trans lock timing and be altered by running diff gearing, with dual tcase (4.7 in one) I could get the system to lock up at 9mph on the trail.
If this is the case that the auto trans is a major contributor to the engine temps then gearing will 100% help the most IMO. Will make the trans and engine work way less overall.
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Old 06-22-2021, 04:27 AM #57
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You could have turned on the heater full blast and then opened the windows so you don't get steam cooked. Turning on the heater helps in dissipating heat from the coolant


Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
...
Not even 20 minute track sessions got that car to overheat - then 115*F with the AC blasting on the freeway to sudden traffic did it... Luckily I was about 2 miles from the house and I was able to turn off the AC and limp home.

-Charlie
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Old 06-22-2021, 06:04 AM #58
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Driving in Extreme Heat with Heavily Modified Rig (Heavy)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ch1966 View Post
Wow. Thanks for the insight. Still playing with my new OBDLINK MX+. Found the pid and added it to my ever evolving dash.
“Status of Lock Up Sol Off/On”

Here I am unlocked before getting on the interstate. Temps up a little.



On the interstate. Achieved lock. Temps fall.



Slowing down for merging traffic. TC unlocks. Temp rises.



Achieve lock. Temps fall.



I make my exit. TC doesn’t lock in the 45mph zone.
Temps rise. Quite a bit in a mile @45mph.



It locks back up after the speed limit goes up and cools back down and I arrive at my destination.

I now have my eye on it. Thanks for your idea.

Lockup occurs at 48mph in 4th and 42ish in 3rd on my 97.


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Old 06-22-2021, 10:11 AM #59
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Lockup occurs at 48mph in 4th and 42ish in 3rd on my 97.


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Thanks!
Mine will shift from 2nd to 4th under some circumstances.
I added a gear indicator.



I think I’d better drop the pan and put a new filter in it and get new fluid in it.
And add a cooler.
The prior owner put a new rad in a couple of years ago.
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Old 06-22-2021, 12:03 PM #60
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I do fair amount of driving over a couple of passes, which means turning off overdrive. Even if it's already kicked down into 3rd, when I turn off the overdrive, the converter locks up and the RPMs will drop by another 300 or so. Definitely part of the cooling plan, mainly for the trans, but everything ties together.
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