06-18-2021, 08:14 AM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
|
Resurrecting the AC
Alright... So my rig is ifnally at the point where the AC just can't keep up anymore. As soon as it goes above about about 80 the AC pretty much just cannot keep up. Spell up until this year it's always been phenomenal, probably one of the best air conditioners in the car I've ever had.
At this point I don't really have the time or tools to super diagnose anything, plus it's hot as shit here, so I figured at this point it's just best to start replacing AC components. Probably wouldn't hurt about 21 years....haha.
Anyway, so basically I wanted to ask if you guys knew what were the most critical for most likely components that should be replaced. I figured the compressor at least, but wasn't sure what else might be a good idea. I mean I guess I could do all of it, but if there are certain parts that don't really make a difference then I guess it wouldn't be worth it?
So, let's begin the ceremony and focus out thoughts into the resurrection of my AC
(2000, V6, SR5, 4x4)
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 09:49 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
Alright... So my rig is ifnally at the point where the AC just can't keep up anymore. As soon as it goes above about about 80 the AC pretty much just cannot keep up. Spell up until this year it's always been phenomenal, probably one of the best air conditioners in the car I've ever had.
At this point I don't really have the time or tools to super diagnose anything, plus it's hot as shit here, so I figured at this point it's just best to start replacing AC components. Probably wouldn't hurt about 21 years....haha.
Anyway, so basically I wanted to ask if you guys knew what were the most critical for most likely components that should be replaced. I figured the compressor at least, but wasn't sure what else might be a good idea. I mean I guess I could do all of it, but if there are certain parts that don't really make a difference then I guess it wouldn't be worth it?
So, let's begin the ceremony and focus out thoughts into the resurrection of my AC
(2000, V6, SR5, 4x4)
|
When I decide to go through my ac system I'll be replacing everything but the lines. Compressor, condenser, receiver/drier, expansion valve, and any seal I can get to. Here's a fantastic write up from a fellow member that went through his entire ac system: DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
__________________
2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 10:07 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
When I decide to go through my ac system I'll be replacing everything but the lines. Compressor, condenser, receiver/drier, expansion valve, and any seal I can get to. Here's a fantastic write up from a fellow member that went through his entire ac system: DIY Complete AC Replacement on 2000 T4R Limited
|
2x on this advise.
you have to do the drier if you open the system, pull a vacuum on it as soon as you close it back up.
I'm doing my 98 right now... did the evap core last night. still waiting on a couple of pieces of bracket hardware for the new condenser so once we get those parts I will finish the entire thing.
you can do the entire thing in about 3 hours @ a relaxed pace. it's just reclaiming what is in there now that can be a pain.
I have a shop right down the street with a machine so I just have them reclaim it and empty the existing system then they give me credit for anything they reclaimed on the recharge. the machine meters exactly what goes in so you have confidence it should be good.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 10:25 AM
|
#4
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Death Valley
Posts: 591
|
|
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Death Valley
Posts: 591
|
I think replacing everything is kinda a waste of money. If you think you have a solid leak just add some dye and more r134. drive around a while then look for any leaks, should tell you what to replace. I just replaced my condensor and drier. I didnt seam to get a good vacuum. It would slowely drop a few psi after holding vacuum for like 30min. I added the dye and freon and have been driving for a few weeks. I cant even find any leaks and the system works amazing again. I have 260k miles.
I bought a vacuum pump/gauge set for like $120 on amazon.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 10:42 AM
|
#5
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 905
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 905
|
If you're going to replace the compressor without knowing if it's good or bad you might as well replace the entire system. You will need "tools" for that.
I'd find out why it's not working and fix that problem.
If you don't have the time or tools take it somewhere.
It will probably be cheaper and quicker.
__________________
2000 4runner 4wd Auto V6 - Tru-Cool LPD4454 trans cooler in series
1991 4runner 4wd Auto V6
1990 4runner 4wd Auto V6
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 11:01 AM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,151
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,151
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20
...
it's always been phenomenal, probably one of the best air conditioners in the car I've ever had....
|
True dat, the Absolute Best Auto A/C I've Ever Experienced!!
So guessing you've already tried adding a $4 can of freon (only)? May just have a tiny leak that takes months to drop like my daughter's Prius (so why fix the tiny leak?). Luck whatever you do or happens but yeah its is "H&H" weather (hot & humid) here in central texas too, ugggg.....
__________________
2001 Limited 4WD - 346+K - SunfireRed\Thunder Cloud; - 265/75/16 Michelin A/T2s - Fat Pat's 1.5" BL - StopTech ANGLED rotors - In series 699 trans cooler, New Yota1 transmission, All new OEM suspension front to rear.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 12:56 PM
|
#7
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Northern California
Posts: 64
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Northern California
Posts: 64
|
I’m a do-it-yourself guy, but when it comes to AC, I leave it to the pros. Replacing AC parts by trial and error seems costly and time consuming. I’d take it to an AC shop and get it done right. Would probably end up costing you less as well!
I had the factory AC gone through on my ‘71 El Camino by an AC shop way back in 90’s. Wasn’t too expensive, and still going strong! No regrets here.
__________________
2002 4Runner SR5 4WD 3.4L Thundercloud
2001 Tacoma Xtracab TRD 4WD 3.4L Black Sand Pearl (original owner)
1971 El Camino (second owner, purchased in ‘81)
2010 Cadillac DTS
Too many cars, but love them all!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 01:33 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,328
|
Hey guys thanks for the replies. I forgot to specify that she has been drained and recharged. No leaks, the performance just sucks ass.
Past that, paying a shop to figure it out would be a few hundred (last quote I got to investigate was 300 plus 160 to recharge it afterwards), so if I'm going to spend that I might as well just replace most of the parts. Especially since they are old, that's why I was curious if there are certain parts that do wear out, or parts that rarely ever wear out. One of the main shops I use right now doesn't charge much for labor as long as they don't have to try to solve the mystery, so if I just bring them something and ask them to swap it they'll charge me a lot less versus spending hours trying to figure it out.
I will say that the compressor does sound like it puts a hard load on the engine, with some additional odd sounds as well. Maybe I only need the compressor? That's why I opted to start there.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 03:16 PM
|
#9
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,319
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Stouchsburg PA
Posts: 5,319
|
90% of leaks are the Schreader valves. How many 12oz cans did you add? Or did a shop do it?
If you did the work did you vac it to at least 28” of HG for a few hours and then let it sit overnight to ensure it held the vacuum with no leaks?
If you think your compressor is bad then you need to either flush the entire system or replace both the EVAP, condenser, and dryer.
You do not need to replace the dryer every time you open the system. If your dryer is 20 years old yes replace it. Dryer bag breaks up and puts yellow power everywhere.
How old is your cooling fan clutch?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 05:28 PM
|
#10
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 60
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 60
|
Did the shop tell you what the pressure readings were? If they were normal ~30 on the low side and ~200 on the high side, there's something else going on because it should blow plenty cold with those readings. Is it possible your heater valve is stuck open or not closing completely? All the duct work under the dash is ok? You have it on recirc, right? Now if the pressures are off, that's a whole other story.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-18-2021, 05:39 PM
|
#11
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,337
Real Name: Jerod
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Citrus Heights, California
Age: 36
Posts: 7,337
Real Name: Jerod
|
If it's holding pressure (parts stores sell cheap gauges that work great) then it's the compressor. Replacing the compressor is not an easy task and it's tricky to get to with the engine in the vehicle. Just get ready for a fight. Will also need a way to vacuum out the existing refrigerant. I would start there and replace other things like the condenser later on only if you need to. Oh, have you checked to see if your condenser fins are completely full of leaves and moths?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
06-19-2021, 01:01 PM
|
#12
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Fair Oaks, CA (Sacramento)
Posts: 255
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Fair Oaks, CA (Sacramento)
Posts: 255
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by azrex
Did the shop tell you what the pressure readings were? If they were normal ~30 on the low side and ~200 on the high side, there's something else going on because it should blow plenty cold with those readings. Is it possible your heater valve is stuck open or not closing completely? All the duct work under the dash is ok? You have it on recirc, right? Now if the pressures are off, that's a whole other story.
|
^^X2 on all of this.^^
__________________
1997 Toyota 4Runner
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|