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Old 06-29-2021, 12:53 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonfasch View Post
Do any of these changes require an vehicle alignment after their replacement/install?
Arm bushings yes. Everything else should be fine (swaybar links/bushings, rear links, shocks, lower ball joints) without an alignment.

Likelihood of problems with the work is highly dependent on the truck's condition - rusty? good luck! pristine southern truck? Go for it!

-Charlie
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Old 06-29-2021, 01:45 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Arm bushings yes. Everything else should be fine (swaybar links/bushings, rear links, shocks, lower ball joints) without an alignment.

Likelihood of problems with the work is highly dependent on the truck's condition - rusty? good luck! pristine southern truck? Go for it!

-Charlie

And this brings up yet Another issue... the alignment adjuster cams (lower A-arm) are notorious for getting stuck in place and need to be cut out. So I'd plan on having spares in hand and that 2nd vehicle available... my southern vehicle was only Slightly stuck and I was able to free and reuse them, but it seems I'm in the minority there.

This is mostly just one of those annoyances that's easily dealt with if forewarned.

for the radiator replacement, that's about as straight-forward a task as you can get. Drain coolant, pinch ATF lines, remove various hoses, remove fan shroud, remove 4 bolts that hold radiator to core support and lift out. Coolant should be "red" variety, if you haven't kept up with the fluid changes (every 3~4 years), might be worth dumping in a coolant cleaner a few weeks ahead of time and going through a few drain and fills (with distilled water) before the swap.
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Old 06-29-2021, 01:46 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonfasch View Post
I have OEM lower ball joints on the way.

And radiator is original. I'll look at that after I get the lower ball joints and bushings replaced. I'll just have to find a replacement procedure.

Thanks
Lower ball joint replacement video: Lower Ball Joint Replacement Tutorial - YouTube
Radiator removal first 15 minutes of this video Toyota Timing Belt Replacement (PART 1) for 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE (4runner, Tacoma, Tundra & T100) - YouTube
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Old 06-29-2021, 02:49 PM #19
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Feeling the luv with all this info...

a few comments to notes above...

rusty or not? - Living in Northwest Wisconsin - with lots of salty roads... so underneath... yes

Arm Bushings - they aren't on my list... but I'm thinking I need to add them after everything else...

Radiator - was fully flushed by the local Toyota Dealer just last summer...
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Old 06-29-2021, 03:01 PM #20
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There is no way to inspect or look at the transmission cooler in the radiator. They fail and ruin your transmission. Do you want to replace a $120 radiator or a $3000 plus transmission?
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Old 06-29-2021, 03:32 PM #21
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Didn't mean I wasn't going to change it out. Just that the process following, from the comment above, wasn't needed prior to my swapping it out.

"if you haven't kept up with the fluid changes (every 3~4 years), might be worth dumping in a coolant cleaner a few weeks ahead of time and going through a few drain and fills (with distilled water) before the swap."

The Radiator is on my list, but probably should be further up:
1. Front Stabilizer Bar Links
2. Front Bushings
3. Lower Ball Joints
4. Rear Bushings
5. Radiator

But my list is what I'm initially comfortable with (after just swapping out the Rear Sway Bar Links last weekend), what parts are arriving in the mail next, what I can swap out knowing I have no spare vehicle at this point, plus having a few very busy weekends in July.

I’m just glad I posted for help… As otherwise Lower Ball Joints and Radiator weren’t even thoughts in my mind after 330,000 miles… ☹
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Old 06-29-2021, 03:53 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonfasch View Post
rusty or not? - Living in Northwest Wisconsin - with lots of salty roads... so underneath... yes
Step 1 then is to check the frame closely for rust damage. #1 location is the rear lower link bracket on the frame near the muffler. Check for holes/damage where the bracket is welded to the frame.

If that is bad, that will put the rest of the maintenance/repair work in context...

-Charlie
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Old 06-29-2021, 04:51 PM #23
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I wouldn't add anything to that radiator for fear it would come apart, overheat, and blow the head gasket or leak into the transmission. Normally I would but you are on borrowed time. Once the temp gauge says it is hot it is too late so get a Scangauge or similar so you can read the actual engine temperature.
Definitely go with OEM LBJ's also.
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Old 06-30-2021, 11:50 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Step 1 then is to check the frame closely for rust damage. #1 location is the rear lower link bracket on the frame near the muffler. Check for holes/damage where the bracket is welded to the frame.

If that is bad, that will put the rest of the maintenance/repair work in context...

-Charlie
Here's some pictures of the area that I think you were referencing in regards to the "bracket is welded to the frame." I saw rust, and the black undercoating coming off, but no actual holes.
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2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-209462411_762243464471500_4223915095147179609_n-jpg  2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-206900641_319643993219789_395712645213389117_n-jpg 
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Old 06-30-2021, 12:03 PM #25
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2002 4Runner - Suspension Question

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Originally Posted by jonfasch View Post
Here's some pictures of the area that I think you were referencing in regards to the "bracket is welded to the frame." I saw rust, and the black undercoating coming off, but no actual holes.

Here’s the bracket you want to look at:


See how in this photo the rust has penetrated the weld seam.

View from under the truck, facing out, looking at the inboard side of the rear trailing arm mount. Especially where the bracket is welded to the frame rail. The tire you see in the photo is the inside of the rear passenger tire.

Here’s another angle closer up (unfortunately blurry):


You can see from the close up that you could push a screwdriver into/through that weld seam. Not good. That’s actual structural damage.

If your trailing arm mount looks like this, then in my opinion that might change your plans for this truck.
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Old 06-30-2021, 01:54 PM #26
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Based on those upper link pics, I expect the lower link brackets to be pretty bad... That should be figured out before any other maintenance.

-Charlie
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Old 07-01-2021, 09:49 AM #27
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Here's what mine look like.... See attached pics....
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2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-206079337_4072151692834506_2413691540514883055_n-jpg  2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-203254324_418358729237937_8103187831906984693_n-jpg  2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-202524310_862983950967422_2475497355292931581_n-jpg  2002 4Runner - Suspension Question-200387359_209465451067295_9039459631559717169_n-jpg 
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:33 PM #28
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Quote:
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Here's what mine look like.... See attached pics....
Aw nooo man. I would forget everything else and get that issue sorted out first. There's really no point in fixing the suspension up first if the bracket is about to snap due to rot. I do know there are weld kits that can be bought to fix it.
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Old 07-01-2021, 03:57 PM #29
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2002 4Runner - Suspension Question

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Here's what mine look like.... See attached pics....
Yeah… if you choose to keep the truck, I’d consider DIY or finding a welder that’s willing to repair that frame. Check out the products from SafeTCap:

4-Runner 1996-2002 3rd Gen Archives - autorust.com




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Old 07-02-2021, 10:54 PM #30
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Thanks for the info on my frame and the welding that needs to be done...

But since I had parts arriving today in the mail... I knocked out the following in about 3.5 hours.

1. DONE - Front Stabilizer Bar Links
2. DONE - Front Bushings

It took longer than it should of just because it was my first time doing both - and I had to make two walking trips to the HW store about a block away... Remember I only have 1 vehicle with my other attending college 100 miles away :-)

The Front Stabilizer Bar Links came out relatively easy. Had one broken top nut on the driver side, and had to Dremel cut off the bottom nut on the passenger side. But that went fast.

The Front Stabilizer Bushings were a little more fun. With having to get to the four bolts from the top. Thought I needed a deep socket so that was the first walk to the HW store - but not needed. Plus I broke one bolt off. So had to get the bolt out. And ended up breaking the welded nut off the bracket too. So the second walk to the HW Store.

But all is complete and back together. And test drive went well

Once I got it all back together, I noticed another package at the door - Lower Ball Joints. But that's a task for tomorrow as I need to pick up a Tie Rod Puller kit from Advance first.

Than to knock out the two Rear Stabilizer Rod bushings after that.

Than to purchase a Radiator and install - that looks fairly easy... and should be easy on this old body.

Than back to the rear frame issues and fixing it somehow...

Needed to knock these other things out... as I have two road-trips in the next 3 weeks that I'm heading out on... and not much time to get things done. And a single dad with full custody of a 15 year old that is a very busy boy - but has not started drivers training just yet. So tons of running.

Thanks Again... I catch up again once I get some more tasks done.
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