User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 06-28-2021, 01:23 PM #1
DontRoastMePlease DontRoastMePlease is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Oregon
Posts: 18
Real Name: Ana
DontRoastMePlease is on a distinguished road
DontRoastMePlease DontRoastMePlease is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Oregon
Posts: 18
Real Name: Ana
DontRoastMePlease is on a distinguished road
Undercarriage Rust

Hey y’all, I’ve been doing a bunch of research but can’t find a good estimate.
I’ve got a 99 4Runner with SEVERE undercarriage rust. Just curious about how much it would cost to get a whole new undercarriage and frame.
DontRoastMePlease is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 02:27 PM #2
Jubsz Jubsz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MD
Posts: 121
Jubsz is on a distinguished road
Jubsz Jubsz is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MD
Posts: 121
Jubsz is on a distinguished road
Need more info. Pics would help a lot. As is, this is completely unanswerable.

What is the condition of the runner as a whole?

What is your goal? DD? Farm truck? Cross the Mojave?

Are you doing the work? Do you have a lift and place to store a parts truck? Are you mechanically capable of swapping a frame?

Will you only accept a brand new frame and labor from Toyota?
Jubsz is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 03:00 PM #3
cl4Rk's Avatar
cl4Rk cl4Rk is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: KC
Posts: 823
cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold
cl4Rk cl4Rk is offline
Member
cl4Rk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: KC
Posts: 823
cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold
Undercarriage Rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by DontRoastMePlease View Post
Hey y’all, I’ve been doing a bunch of research but can’t find a good estimate.
I’ve got a 99 4Runner with SEVERE undercarriage rust. Just curious about how much it would cost to get a whole new undercarriage and frame.

Things needed before I could answer:

1. Post photos please. Lots of them.

2. Is the truck in otherwise excellent mechanical condition?

3. How much work would you do yourself?

4. Do you have the space and a lift?

5. Can you weld? Bend a frame? Sandblast? etc

6. Do you have other reliable transportation while the 4Runner is up on a lift (or jack stands)? It could take a long time since it's both a ton of work and you'll likely get delayed due to supply chain disruptions when ordering parts you didn't know you needed until you starting taking things apart. This is true even if you're paying someone to do all the work. If the truck is all torn apart, and a critical component is simply not in stock, you'll have to wait it out.

7. What's your goal for this project? That will partially determine how much you may spend. Eg, daily driver to get to/from an office? Off-road toy? Farm truck?

8. How much are you willing to spend on this truck before you'd wish you had just bought another vehicle?

9. Does the truck have sentimental value? Or is this strictly a cost/benefit analysis?



Almost done with my frame swap.
Here are some lessons learned:

1. You'll need to source a clean donor frame yourself. Make sure you get the VIN of the frame and do all your homework on the frame and your truck to ensure they'll be fully compatible before you buy. Sometimes the sellers think it's a 2000 frame, but the VIN (and the position #2 body mounts) prove it's a 1999. That stuff matters during a swap.

2. You'll need to manage the transportation of that frame. Just because the seller ships it doesn't mean that it will arrive. Ever. You might have to end up renting a trailer and getting several friends to help take care of the "last mile."

3. You'll likely need to spend a great deal of time prepping the donor frame (even if it's advertised as "rust free", it's still about the same age as your truck, and will need some work, even if it's just sanding, cleaning, painting.)

4. If you're really rusty, expect basically every single fastener to break or need to be cut off and replaced.

5. Expect basically every bushing and suspension component to be at least partially damaged. (Be pleasantly surprised at whatever can be cleaned up and reused).

6. The body work on the undercarriage is not to be underestimated if you really plan on getting everything rust free and more or less rust "proof".



After my experience, I believe a frame swap is only worth it if:

1. You got the truck for very, very cheap AND it's in excellent mechanical condition, or

2. You can do all the work yourself AND you're very bored and looking for a new hobby, or

3. You have plenty of extra money AND the truck has a lot of sentimental value to you.



As far as costs go, your location/region will tremendously affect the quotes you get from mechanics. It's a ton of work, and the overall cost is incredibly variable given there's no good way to know how many parts will need to be replaced. If outsourcing, look for a mechanic pretty far outside of major metro areas who's done frame swaps before, who's willing to let you buy your own parts, and willing to let you do some of the work yourself in their shop.

PM me if you want to get into the numbers. So much depends on your answers to the above.

You very well might be better off looking for a different vehicle.
__________________
2000 SR-5 V6 4x4 Auto
"Ol' Ruby" - build thread
@Y2K_4X4

Last edited by cl4Rk; 06-28-2021 at 06:34 PM.
cl4Rk is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 04:58 PM #4
Too Stroked's Avatar
Too Stroked Too Stroked is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 488
Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough
Too Stroked Too Stroked is offline
Member
Too Stroked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 488
Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough Too Stroked is a jewel in the rough
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk View Post
Almost done with my frame swap.
Here's some lessons learned:

1. You'll need to source a clean donor frame yourself. Make sure you get the VIN of the frame and do all your homework on the frame and your truck to ensure they'll be fully compatible before you buy. Sometimes the sellers think it's a 2000 frame, but the VIN (and the position #2 body mounts) prove it's a 1999. That stuff matters during a swap.

2. You'll need to manage the transportation of that frame. Just because the seller ships it doesn't mean that it will arrive. Ever. You might have to end up renting a trailer and getting several friends to help take care of the "last mile."

3. You'll likely need to spend a great deal of time prepping the donor frame (even if it's advertised as "rust free", it's still about the same age as your truck, and will need some work, even if it's just sanding, cleaning, painting.)

4. If you're really rusty, expect basically every single fastener to break or need to be cut off and replaced.

5. Expect basically every bushing and suspension component to be at least partially damaged. (Be pleasantly surprised at whatever can be cleaned up and reused).

6. The body work on the undercarriage is not to be underestimated if you really plan on getting everything rust free and more or less rust "proof".



After my experience, I believe a frame swap is only worth it if:

1. You got the truck for very, very cheap AND it's in excellent mechanical condition, or

2. You can do all the work yourself AND you're very bored and looking for a new hobby, or

3. You have plenty of extra money AND the truck has a lot of sentimental value to you.



As far as costs go, your location/region will tremendously affect the quotes you get from mechanics. It's a ton of work, and the overall cost is incredibly variable given there's no good way to know how many parts will need to be replaced. If outsourcing, look for a mechanic pretty far outside of major metro areas who's done frame swaps before, who's willing to let you buy your own parts, and willing to let you do some of the work yourself in their shop.

PM me if you want to get into the numbers. So much depends on your answers to the above.

You very well might be better off looking for a different vehicle.
OP, ^^^^^ This is 100% correct. But let me add a few thoughts based on a lifetime of experience living in the rust belt.

- If the rust you can see is "SEVERE" as you say, the rust you cannot see is even worse.

- Once rust starts, it's virtually impossible to stop for anything less than stupid money. The best cure for rust is to prevent it from ever starting.

- Anybody (or any product) that claims to have the ability to "stop rust in it's tracks" is lying.

- Unless you have some sort of exceptionally strong bond to your 4Runner, you'll be money ahead to sell it and move on.
Too Stroked is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 07:24 PM #5
Devbot's Avatar
Devbot Devbot is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,187
Real Name: Devan
Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold
Devbot Devbot is offline
Senior Member
Devbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Monroe, WA
Posts: 2,187
Real Name: Devan
Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold Devbot is a splendid one to behold
Some pictures/more explanation would really be helpful, "undercarriage" just refers to the underside of a car and practically includes everything except for the engine. I also 110% agree with the above statement from @cl4Rk , there are relatively few replacements that are bigger and more in-depth than a frame swap. But I'm sure as you've seen, it's definitely possible if you have the patience and the money. It would behoove you to provide as much info as possible, as to research as much as you can.
__________________
Y2K Highlander Millennium Silver 3.4L auto @ 320k and climbing
Toytecs + 5100s / 7.5 wrap + OME spacers + Tokicos / JBA UCAs / Anonymous Fab. LBJs / Total Chaos Gussets / EimKeith PCK + LCAR / Extended Bump Stops; Brake Lines; Rear Diff Breather / True North Fab. Hybrid Bumper / CBI Hybrid Bumper + Tire Carrier / 4xInnovations Hybrid Sliders / Opt Offroad Trailing Arms / Lil Skip Gas Skid / BudBuilt Front Skid / ARB Rear Locker
Devbot is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 07:46 PM #6
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
I would expect to pay $100-$250 for a frame, from someone doing a part out.
NachesPass4x4 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 10:34 PM #7
cl4Rk's Avatar
cl4Rk cl4Rk is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: KC
Posts: 823
cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold
cl4Rk cl4Rk is offline
Member
cl4Rk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: KC
Posts: 823
cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold cl4Rk is a splendid one to behold
Undercarriage Rust

Quote:
Originally Posted by NachesPass4x4 View Post
I would expect to pay $100-$250 for a frame, from someone doing a part out.

My experience last year was that so-called “rust free” frames were more like $500-$800 (including shipping) but that was mostly on car-part.com listings.

I agree with you however that if you are patient and vigilant, you could get a better deal especially if you catch an individual parting out a truck.
__________________
2000 SR-5 V6 4x4 Auto
"Ol' Ruby" - build thread
@Y2K_4X4
cl4Rk is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 10:56 PM #8
brillo_76's Avatar
brillo_76 brillo_76 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,012
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute
brillo_76 brillo_76 is offline
Elite Member
brillo_76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,012
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute
Instead of replacing the frame. Which is a very good option and definitely an excellent choice.

I actually rebuild them and you can see how I do it on my build thread.

The cons:
Extremely time consuming and you have to know how to weld along with basic understanding of structure of steel and be careful you don't bend a rusty frame
trying to repair it.

You have to open the frame and cut the cancer sections out. Sometimes you have to rebuild quite a bit of it.

As these all rot from the inside out. So cleaning the inside of the frame and coating the inside with rust inhibitors and seal it off all the frame holes it is critical to saving it from rusting out.

Adding weight to the frame.

The Pros:

You can completely clean out the frame and paint seal the inside up and keep it from rotting out again.

You can actually make the frame stronger then it ever was from the factory.

My Tank. (1997 5 speed ) has its entire frame mostly a 1/4 think with a U built in the frame and sealed off. (3/4 ) completed.


These are boxed frames so in the rust belt you have to remove the holes out of the frame. If you don't. It will just rust out again.

I seal the Frames inside with FF or cosmoline. However, for effectiveness the scaling has to be gone in the inside.


Its best to do the entire frame at once if possible. You can do it in sections if need be. :-)
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
brillo_76 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 10:58 PM #9
suncoug suncoug is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
suncoug is on a distinguished road
suncoug suncoug is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
suncoug is on a distinguished road
Like others have said, severe rust is quite relative. I thought I had a pretty severe rust issue with my 3rd gen, but it ended up not being so bad. I am currently cutting out the section of frame on both side where the LCAs are and welding it back using the Autorust Safe T Cap kits.

I am also replacing the upper shock/spring mounts on both sides. I am also installing a sturdy pipe inside the pipe looking cross member to reinforce it and also to repair the corroded section where the passenger side upper control arm mount got ripped off due to corrosion.

On mine visually, the passenger side LCA mount looked worse but apparently it was quite sturdy, as it took quite of bit of cutting to take it off, though the driver's side broke off while on Interstate highway.

I thought long and hard about getting a new set of frame or even having to replace some cross members and getting more Safetycap kits, but I am glad I didn't do that, as the damage was not as bad as I had feared.

Without a lift, just doing this is taking a lot of hours of work, though with better planning and tools, it would have gone much faster. If you search for Autorust and 4Runner on YouTube, you will see the pros doing this work on a badly rusted 4th gen 4runner very efficiently. But, they really know what they are doing and have the right stuff. I was particularly impressed with their sandblasting equipment, as my setup was much slower and took a very long time.

I am also taking time to do a real thorough job, but you can't beat the efficiency of the pros. I have had to take out the fuel tank, rear end, exhaust, etc. not to mention figure out a way to lift the body as well as the frame. I had to drag the setup outside the shop to sandblast it. I spoke with the gentleman at Autorust and got some good advice. He also said that on their 3rd gen 4Runner, they only removed the fuel tank and didn't lift the body at all.

Anyway, as others have said, it is a lot of work and I can't imagine how much work it would take to replace the frame. This has been a good experience, but I am not sure how useful the experience would be, since I won't do this work again. Again, next time, I will be sure to have a much better sandblasting setup.
suncoug is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 11:08 PM #10
suncoug suncoug is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
suncoug is on a distinguished road
suncoug suncoug is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
suncoug is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Instead of replacing the frame. Which is a very good option and definitely an excellent choice.

I actually rebuild them and you can see how I do it on my build thread.

The cons:
Extremely time consuming and you have to know how to weld along with basic understanding of structure of steel and be careful you don't bend a rusty frame
trying to repair it.

You have to open the frame and cut the cancer sections out. Sometimes you have to rebuild quite a bit of it.

As these all rot from the inside out. So cleaning the inside of the frame and coating the inside with rust inhibitors and seal it off all the frame holes it is critical to saving it from rusting out.

Adding weight to the frame.

The Pros:

You can completely clean out the frame and paint seal the inside up and keep it from rotting out again.

You can actually make the frame stronger then it ever was from the factory.

My Tank. (1997 5 speed ) has its entire frame mostly a 1/4 think with a U built in the frame and sealed off. (3/4 ) completed.


These are boxed frames so in the rust belt you have to remove the holes out of the frame. If you don't. It will just rust out again.

I seal the Frames inside with FF or cosmoline. However, for effectiveness the scaling has to be gone in the inside.


Its best to do the entire frame at once if possible. You can do it in sections if need be. :-)
If I understand you correctly, you seem to suggest that it would be better to seal off the frame. I had someone help with this project and he suggested the same. Actually, he had a very strong opinion about this. However, the Autorust tech I spoke with said it is critical that I have drain holes in the frame or it will rust inside again. The kits that Autorust makes have large drain holes and he also told me to drill new holes in the frame.

I tend to agree with the Autorust tech. I would rather have access holes that allows for the water/moisture to escape and also allow me to apply Fluid Film regularly.

Last edited by suncoug; 06-28-2021 at 11:13 PM.
suncoug is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 11:38 PM #11
sleepydad's Avatar
sleepydad sleepydad is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of
sleepydad sleepydad is offline
Senior Member
sleepydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by DontRoastMePlease View Post
Hey y’all, I’ve been doing a bunch of research but can’t find a good estimate.
I’ve got a 99 4Runner with SEVERE undercarriage rust. Just curious about how much it would cost to get a whole new undercarriage and frame.
I did a frame swap a couple years back, it's a boat load of work. super rewarding if your looking to do the work yourself.

sourcing the frame out on the west coast should be easy.
sleepydad is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 11:40 PM #12
sleepydad's Avatar
sleepydad sleepydad is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of
sleepydad sleepydad is offline
Senior Member
sleepydad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,488
Real Name: Andy ಠ_ಠ
sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of sleepydad has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk View Post
My experience last year was that so-called “rust free” frames were more like $500-$800 (including shipping) but that was mostly on car-part.com listings.

I agree with you however that if you are patient and vigilant, you could get a better deal especially if you catch an individual parting out a truck.
this one is right on the money, a quality frame that is in good working order is going to run $500 and up.
sleepydad is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-29-2021, 08:41 AM #13
brillo_76's Avatar
brillo_76 brillo_76 is offline
Elite Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,012
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute
brillo_76 brillo_76 is offline
Elite Member
brillo_76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,012
Real Name: Jon
brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute brillo_76 has a reputation beyond repute
Quote:
Originally Posted by suncoug View Post
If I understand you correctly, you seem to suggest that it would be better to seal off the frame. I had someone help with this project and he suggested the same. Actually, he had a very strong opinion about this. However, the Autorust tech I spoke with said it is critical that I have drain holes in the frame or it will rust inside again. The kits that Autorust makes have large drain holes and he also told me to drill new holes in the frame.

I tend to agree with the Autorust tech. I would rather have access holes that allows for the water/moisture to escape and also allow me to apply Fluid Film regularly.
Yes. Drain holes are an option. If you want to off road it. I don't do that though. You can make bolt seals or put plugs in for access holes if you want to.

The less holes in the frame the less ways for water and debris and salt to get inside the frame.. If the frame is all cleaned out and descaled on the inside. The rust inhibitor solutions will work for keeping it from rusting. Now if they can wash away from the holes be open . This is not as effective.








Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
brillo_76 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-29-2021, 01:44 PM #14
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl4Rk View Post
My experience last year was that so-called “rust free” frames were more like $500-$800 (including shipping) but that was mostly on car-part.com listings.

I agree with you however that if you are patient and vigilant, you could get a better deal especially if you catch an individual parting out a truck.
Yeah, I'm talking private party not junk yards. $500+ is what Id expect a junk yard to ask. I'm sure it has a lot to do with location but around here, there are a lot of guys parting out Toyota's. Most people don't want a frame sitting around forever waiting to make a fortune on it. Heck, I've given up a couple for free and scrapped a couple as well (older toy pickups, not 3rd gen 4runners).
NachesPass4x4 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 06-29-2021, 01:56 PM #15
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
NachesPass4x4 NachesPass4x4 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Washington state
Posts: 32
NachesPass4x4 is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by suncoug View Post
If I understand you correctly, you seem to suggest that it would be better to seal off the frame. I had someone help with this project and he suggested the same. Actually, he had a very strong opinion about this. However, the Autorust tech I spoke with said it is critical that I have drain holes in the frame or it will rust inside again. The kits that Autorust makes have large drain holes and he also told me to drill new holes in the frame.

I tend to agree with the Autorust tech. I would rather have access holes that allows for the water/moisture to escape and also allow me to apply Fluid Film regularly.
I'd go with the tech on this one. You want the frame to drain and breath.
NachesPass4x4 is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
curious , i’ve , rust , severe , undercarriage

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Undercarriage Rust on T4R mikeikedc 4th Gen T4Rs 31 03-29-2023 10:16 PM
Rust on the undercarriage? ewingeric Problems & Warranty Issues 8 10-23-2020 11:15 AM
What do you guys think of this undercarriage? Too much rust to buy? arisyn 5th gen T4Rs 11 03-04-2020 02:03 AM
05 Undercarriage Rust 4runnah005 4th Gen T4Rs 43 01-06-2020 12:37 PM
Undercarriage Rust ewingeric 3rd gen T4Rs 28 11-14-2018 09:56 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:40 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020