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Old 07-05-2021, 06:31 PM #16
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You've got so much to go through before rebuilding the engine. This is the final of many steps of finding why you ''lack power''.

Could be simple as a bad maf or o2 sensor.
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Old 07-05-2021, 08:41 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diverscale View Post
You've got so much to go through before rebuilding the engine. This is the final of many steps of finding why you ''lack power''.

Could be simple as a bad maf or o2 sensor.
But did you see the pics I posted? Its so hard to know who to listen to. You're saying that but I've had people on here say the complete opposite (look at the responses since my compression test pictures). And 2 people I've spoke to in person today suggested a rebuild. Why would an o2 sensor cause compression 65PSI below Toyotas minimum on multiple plugs?
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Old 07-05-2021, 09:36 PM #18
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Originally Posted by Trip_84 View Post
But did you see the pics I posted? Its so hard to know who to listen to. You're saying that but I've had people on here say the complete opposite (look at the responses since my compression test pictures). And 2 people I've spoke to in person today suggested a rebuild. Why would an o2 sensor cause compression 65PSI below Toyotas minimum on multiple plugs?
Not everyone reads the whole thread.

I also second a valve adjustment. I would not pay a shop to do it though as many of them will charge enormous labor costs because it's a complete pain to do. I've done it 3 times and it takes a lot of patience. You may also have one or more cracked valves, which in that case no amount of adjustment and shim swapping will get the lost compression back. Unfortunately the only way to find a cracked valve is to pull the cylinder heads off as even a leakdown pressure test won't tell you whether the valve is out of adjustment or if it is cracked..

Your bottom end most likely is rock solid but the valve in the heads need some R&R to get that power back online. I drove for 4 years with one cylinder at around 90 PSI, but 3 cylinders is a bit much.

P.S. my engine blew up, that's when I knew it was time to replace it lol!
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Old 07-06-2021, 08:44 AM #19
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If your heart is really set on doing a rebuild, listening to the people who talk of valve lash is going to be the most helpful advice.

I would recommend buying an angled feeler gauge to check what clearance you're running before you go and make that decision. It would be something like this ZUZUAN 1 Pack Feeler Gauge with 32-Blade and 1 Pack Offset Feeler Gauge with 16-Blade, Gauge Dual Marked Metric and Imperial Gap Measuring Tool: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Another good thing would be to buy a cheap borescope that will connect to your smartphone to check what all of the cylinder walls/pistons look like.

Keep in mind that doing these above jobs to test an engine with good compression from a junkyard is going to be significantly more economical than rebuilding your 5VZ. It is also very easy to mess up things like the rod cap bolts (these HAVE to be replaced if you loosen or take them off else the engine will explode).

Best of luck
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Old 07-06-2021, 08:56 AM #20
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I would recommend a leak down test on your cylinders with low compression. Adjusting valve lash isn't going to help if the problem is worn piston rings.
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Old 07-06-2021, 12:57 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lord rigatoni View Post
jeez man no wonder your 4runner feels sluggish, thats some serious compression loss. id check your valve seats and your valves to see if any of them are burnt. your piston rings could also be fried as well so yeah it may be time for a rebuild. if you have the tools you could do it yourself, rebuilding engines can be a good time.
You can narrow that compression leak down to rings or valves with a leak-down test. See where the air is going. If it comes out the block breather, it's the rings, major rebuild needed. If it comes out the intake or exhaust, then it's valves, much less involved to fix.
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:31 PM #22
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I'm with those that suggest adjusting the valves and doing a leak down test.

I would say the optimal time to have an engine rebuild done is when you have run out of other options.
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:48 PM #23
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A DIY valve adjustment will cost around $100 for gaskets, $50 for tools and $50 - $100 for shims. Compare that to a full rebuild which can cost $1500 or more. Worn piston rings on a 5VZ-FE or damaged cylinder walls is very uncommon.
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Old 07-06-2021, 07:55 PM #24
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A full rebuild is not worth the investment. Get a replacement from one of the Japanese engine importers if you don't find a relatively easy repair for the low compression on those 3.
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Old 07-07-2021, 11:20 AM #25
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A full rebuild is not worth the investment. Get a replacement from one of the Japanese engine importers if you don't find a relatively easy repair for the low compression on those 3.

I have almost 2000 in my rebuild. To me itís worth it because I know the history.


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Old 07-07-2021, 05:06 PM #26
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I have almost 2000 in my rebuild. To me it’s worth it because I know the history.
It's easy to find very low mileage engines in Japan because their country is smaller and they drive less. A 5VZ-FE with under 100k miles, or under 50k miles, what more history do you need?
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Old 07-07-2021, 05:19 PM #27
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It's easy to find very low mileage engines in Japan because their country is smaller and they drive less. A 5VZ-FE with under 100k miles, or under 50k miles, what more history do you need?
The reason you find lower mileage JDM engines has more to do with emissions testing. Once the vehicle is ten years old it requires yearly inspection which is very costly so most Japanese people just get rid of them. The problem with knowing you're going to get rid of it at the 10 year mark can lead to some engines that are truly junk from all the sludge buildup due to lack of maintenance. I'm not saying it's the end of the world, but it is something to consider when buying a JDM engine. Also, the JDM 5VZ engines usually come from Hiace vans and require swapping over a lot of components from your original engine to the JDM engine.

By the way Japan is almost as large as the entire East Coast of the US.
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