[T4R2014]

Picked up this 1998 Limited and the hard drive with my FSM copy pooped out..

Compared to my two other 3rd gens, the rear (trunk) door on this 3rd gen has a lot of in/out play when you pull out it while it's latched. This translates to some annoying rattles when going over bumps. When opening the rear door, the handle doesn't have the same "snap" to it when pulling on it as well.

This truck was definitely involved in a rear end collision at some point which I was well aware of at time of purchase. It isn't the most awful repair in the world and the truck was well maintained so I went for it. Does anyone know how you adjust this? From the door side or the body side? All of the rubber bumpers and seals are intact.

[Pedrojr80]

Originally Posted by T4R2014

Picked up this 1998 Limited and the hard drive with my FSM copy pooped out..

Compared to my two other 3rd gens, the rear (trunk) door on this 3rd gen has a lot of in/out play when you pull out it while it's latched. This translates to some annoying rattles when going over bumps. When opening the rear door, the handle doesn't have the same "snap" to it when pulling on it as well.

This truck was definitely involved in a rear end collision at some point which I was well aware of at time of purchase. It isn't the most awful repair in the world and the truck was well maintained so I went for it. Does anyone know how you adjust this? From the door side or the body side? All of the rubber bumpers and seals are intact.

Got the similar issue expect that my dont close the firt time u close the door, so you got to open it up again then shut it again so it can close and the light turn off. It should close the firts time you close the door. Would be interested if some one has some info in to this door or botton door latch. My also was involve in a rear collision too. Thanks

[pluton]

FSM for my '97 says three things to adjust the 'back door'.
They list the adjustments in this order:
'Adjust the position of the door using:
1. The body-side hinge nuts. This gives forward/rearward and left/right adjustments.
2.Adjust the door-side hinge bolts. This gives left/right and vertical adjustments.
3.The door lock striker. Loosen screws, use plastic hammer to move.'
The striker is the easiest so I'd try that first.

[IBallEngineer]

Originally Posted by T4R2014

Picked up this 1998 Limited and the hard drive with my FSM copy pooped out..

Compared to my two other 3rd gens, the rear (trunk) door on this 3rd gen has a lot of in/out play when you pull out it while it's latched. This translates to some annoying rattles when going over bumps. When opening the rear door, the handle doesn't have the same "snap" to it when pulling on it as well.

This truck was definitely involved in a rear end collision at some point which I was well aware of at time of purchase. It isn't the most awful repair in the world and the truck was well maintained so I went for it. Does anyone know how you adjust this? From the door side or the body side? All of the rubber bumpers and seals are intact.

This may seem counter intuitive, but it applies to all door/trunk/hatch latches.
When you think it isn't latching all the way, most think to move the striker OUT farther so it will latch all the way. But the truth is it needs to have some tension in order not to feel loose. So adjust the striker IN, this will make the door sit all the way against the w-strip tight, and eliminate rattles. Should fit better to the body too.

Of course the wreck thing means we are assuming things are normal otherwise. If they aren't, my advice is moot.

[T4R2014]

Originally Posted by IBallEngineer

This may seem counter intuitive, but it applies to all door/trunk/hatch latches.
When you think it isn't latching all the way, most think to move the striker OUT farther so it will latch all the way. But the truth is it needs to have some tension in order not to feel loose. So adjust the striker IN, this will make the door sit all the way against the w-strip tight, and eliminate rattles. Should fit better to the body too.

Of course the wreck thing means we are assuming things are normal otherwise. If they aren't, my advice is moot.

Just who I was waiting for to chime in. I was thinking to adjust out but your explanation makes sense. The accident happened more than a decade ago on the driver's rear corner. Bondo is apparent in the door jambs but I missed it in the parking lot until the PO disclosed to me that it happened before he bought it. It's possible that things are wonky. I'm looking at the striker and notice that the chrome finish appears to have been worn off of it. Going to adjust inward and report back.

[beingnotdoing]

Boom! Back from the dead. So how'd it go? I'm about to do the same...

[Manifestdestiny]

Originally Posted by T4R2014

Just who I was waiting for to chime in. I was thinking to adjust out but your explanation makes sense. The accident happened more than a decade ago on the driver's rear corner. Bondo is apparent in the door jambs but I missed it in the parking lot until the PO disclosed to me that it happened before he bought it. It's possible that things are wonky. I'm looking at the striker and notice that the chrome finish appears to have been worn off of it. Going to adjust inward and report back.

Any tips on loosening the screws for the latch? They appear to be an oversized phillips head screw/bolt and i cant get it undone. I also had a rear end accident and ever since the new gate was installed i get a squek noise in the back when accelerating from stopped position and over bumps

[Daryl Elmore]

Originally Posted by Manifestdestiny

Any tips on loosening the screws for the latch? They appear to be an oversized phillips head screw/bolt and i cant get it undone. I also had a rear end accident and ever since the new gate was installed i get a squek noise in the back when accelerating from stopped position and over bumps

An impact screwdriver is how I got mine loose.

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