07-23-2021, 12:41 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
I’m running 4.88s which is good for street/weekend wheeling; I’m at 2200 RPM at 70MPH (yes, it’s correct) with 37/12.50/17.
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Mathematically, 4.88's on 37's is the same as 4.10's on the stock 30.6" tires. 5.29's would be better for low end power and crawl ratio.
My impression of tire sizes:
Stock = stock
Metric "32's" = fit with no mods other than a correct alignment
33's = hope you are comfortable using a hammer or have a body lift
35's = get out the grinder and welder and the pocketbook for gears/etc.
Also keep in mind that you start losing up travel and you only gain half of the tire diameter in clearance for each size increase...
-Charlie
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07-23-2021, 01:02 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck
Mathematically, 4.88's on 37's is the same as 4.10's on the stock 30.6" tires. 5.29's would be better for low end power and crawl ratio.
My impression of tire sizes:
Stock = stock
Metric "32's" = fit with no mods other than a correct alignment
33's = hope you are comfortable using a hammer or have a body lift
35's = get out the grinder and welder and the pocketbook for gears/etc.
Also keep in mind that you start losing up travel and you only gain half of the tire diameter in clearance for each size increase...
-Charlie
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Why would I lose up travel? Couldn’t I just grind the body panels and tub the firewall to clear them at full flex?
On the subject of gears, what brand should I get if it makes a difference?
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07-23-2021, 02:39 PM
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#18
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Couple things I’ll add to keep in mind(some have been said already):
-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.
-Going to want to replace/test your LBJs very often
-people have done it so it’s not impossible
-be prepared for an absolute ton of work getting them to fit (just did 35’s myself and I can see why most ppl stop at 35’s)
-highly recommend body lift 1-2”
-highly recommend wheel spacers
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07-23-2021, 03:48 PM
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#19
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I say go to 39s. It's probably going to be a same amount of cutting, body work, and moving things at that point.
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07-23-2021, 05:09 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron duke
Why would I lose up travel? Couldn’t I just grind the body panels and tub the firewall to clear them at full flex?
On the subject of gears, what brand should I get if it makes a difference?
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No.
And because of the Apron; unless you do a custom front end.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-23-2021, 09:47 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.
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That's not exactly accurate. In there warranty policy it states they will only honor the warranty up to 35's. In reality they will honor it up to much larger. I know guys with 38's and 40's that have had ECGS warranty failures. And yes, both of them where honest about what size tires where on their rigs.
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07-23-2021, 09:57 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith
might as well get the Solo LCAs - move the tire forward 1" and help with firewall interference some.
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This
And SPC uppers
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07-23-2021, 10:49 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theesotericone
That's not exactly accurate. In there warranty policy it states they will only honor the warranty up to 35's. In reality they will honor it up to much larger. I know guys with 38's and 40's that have had ECGS warranty failures. And yes, both of them where honest about what size tires where on their rigs.
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I guess that’s what I should’ve said, that it mentions it in the warranty*. I think it says it’s up to their discretion or something. Good to know though! Lol.
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07-25-2021, 08:53 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher
Couple things I’ll add to keep in mind(some have been said already):
-ECGS won’t warranty their diffs above 35” tires.
-Going to want to replace/test your LBJs very often
-people have done it so it’s not impossible
-be prepared for an absolute ton of work getting them to fit (just did 35’s myself and I can see why most ppl stop at 35’s)
-highly recommend body lift 1-2”
-highly recommend wheel spacers
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Thanks for the info. I just replaced my lbj's 7500 miles ago and have a lifetime warranty on them so it gives me no excuse to let them get too far gone. Only a Autozone drive away.
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07-25-2021, 08:57 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
No.
And because of the Apron; unless you do a custom front end.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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From the hub I'm gaining 1" of tire in the wheel well per perspective size. 33" to 35", and 35" to 37". It's not rubbing the apron on the 33's, so would'nt that be true of 37's with a 2" body lift?
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07-26-2021, 02:14 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron duke
From the hub I'm gaining 1" of tire in the wheel well per perspective size. 33" to 35", and 35" to 37". It's not rubbing the apron on the 33's, so would'nt that be true of 37's with a 2" body lift?
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Because the tire also moves "backwards" with increased diameter - while the body only moves up.
-Charlie
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07-26-2021, 02:30 PM
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#27
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I've fit 37's on mine but as far as I can tell its easier to fit them on a 4th gen. It survived the Rubicon and Blanca Peak. Didn't have to retub the firewall just some grinding and beating with my 1.5" body lift and a +2" LT kit with heimed UCA's adjusted all the way forward.
3rd gens probably have a weight and power advantage so as far as drivetrain strength and upgrading they might actually be easier to fit. The 8" rear diff might be strong enough.
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07-27-2021, 12:23 AM
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#28
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I got nothing to add. I’m just here for the insanity. Can’t even fathom what 37” tires would be like……
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07-27-2021, 02:34 PM
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#29
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Do it, drive it, report back.
If you've got a grinder and a welder theres no reason it cant be done, just a matter of whether the pros actually outweigh the cons. You're introducing a lot more strain on a lot of parts, making the truck drive and handle worse everywhere, and you'd probably never even be able to take advantage of the bigger tires' capabilities off-road.
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07-27-2021, 03:32 PM
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#30
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I really wouldn’t want to run 37s on autozone ball joints, even with a lifetime warranty there have been reports of aftermarket ball joints failing in as little as 10k miles. With how much it will cost for the tires and regear and all the work required a set of oem ball joints and bolts isn’t very expensive
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