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Old 07-26-2021, 09:16 AM #1
scshack scshack is offline
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Successful Lift Install (Tundra Bilsteins and OME 882/891)

I wanted to share my latest success install new shocks and springs to my 2002 4runner. This setup was intended for heavy loads on both the front and the back. With this setup, I gained about 4 in of clearance (saggy old shocks and springs), but with some time and the shocks and springs are settled, it should yield around 3 in of clearance. So far it rides really smooth, much better than the OEM suspension that has most likely been.


My question to the community (and EVERYONE'S question here) is, will I be able to run 33 in tires? Should I look into getting 17 in wheels with new tires? (currently, 16 in wheels) This is an off-roading rig (non-daily) that takes some abuse and flexing without rubbing is important in this setup. I would like to avoid rubbing and I would also like to avoid cutting or hammering the pinch weld. Shoot me your thoughts. Also, let me know anything else I should do or look out for after installing this lift.

The parts installed:TOTAL COST ~$805.28

Some notes around the install:
  • Decided to hold off from installing a diff drop unless it's necessary after the truck has settled
  • Plenty of clearance from the upper control arm both internally and externally
  • Brake lines have plenty of slack, no extensions are needed
  • Currently the pictures are showing 31 in tires
  • The back is about 0.5 in higher than the front
  • The install took 5-6 hours with two people
  • Future alignment once I put around 200-300 miles on the new setup (which will add around $100 to the total cost)

    Here are a few more images around the install.

Here are some of the resources I used to install the lift:
Attached Images
Successful Lift Install (Tundra Bilsteins and OME 882/891)-before_after-jpg 

Last edited by scshack; 07-26-2021 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 07-26-2021, 01:55 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scshack View Post
My question to the community (and EVERYONE'S question here) is, will I be able to run 33 in tires? Should I look into getting 17 in wheels with new tires? (currently, 16 in wheels) This is an off-roading rig (non-daily) that takes some abuse and flexing without rubbing is important in this setup. I would like to avoid rubbing and I would also like to avoid cutting or hammering the pinch weld. Shoot me your thoughts. Also, let me know anything else I should do or look out for after installing this lift.
32's (metric - 265-75-16 or 265-70-17) are the largest you can fit without a body lift, and even then, the front alignment and offset needs to be right.

With a body lift or some hammering in the front you can fit 33's.

-Charlie
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Old 07-26-2021, 02:24 PM #3
scshack scshack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
32's (metric - 265-75-16 or 265-70-17) are the largest you can fit without a body lift, and even then, the front alignment and offset needs to be right.

With a body lift or some hammering in the front you can fit 33's.

-Charlie
Thanks for your response. Should I be looking into A) body lift B) some hammering, or some combo of the two? Or should I just dog my 31s and enjoy the life of no rubbing and full flex on the trails?
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Old 07-27-2021, 01:18 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scshack View Post
Thanks for your response. Should I be looking into A) body lift B) some hammering, or some combo of the two? Or should I just dog my 31s and enjoy the life of no rubbing and full flex on the trails?
Enjoy the lift and tires. Not a fan of body lifts and you dont need larger tires than that. larger tires will only kill your power and gas mileage. Ive got 285/55/16(31.7") and Ive never came accross something I wanted to get accross but could not. Easily done all the hard trails in Death Valley and places in utah Ive gone. Im not rock crawling in moab just 4x4 trails.


Ive got a very simular lift as you and never installed my diff drop. I ended up selling it new in bag.
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Old 07-27-2021, 01:29 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scshack View Post
Thanks for your response. Should I be looking into A) body lift B) some hammering, or some combo of the two? Or should I just dog my 31s and enjoy the life of no rubbing and full flex on the trails?
Definitely get out on the trails and see what you want next instead of assuming you need more tire.

If you need more traction or diff clearance, get tires. You may find you need something else first. Maybe get sliders before tires - save that body!

-Charlie
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Old 07-28-2021, 07:58 AM #6
scshack scshack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Definitely get out on the trails and see what you want next instead of assuming you need more tire.

If you need more traction or diff clearance, get tires. You may find you need something else first. Maybe get sliders before tires - save that body!

-Charlie
This is great advice, I am painting my All-Pro rock sliders today and hopefully having them welded on before I hit the trails this weekend.

Cheers
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Wheelin: 2002 SR5 3rd gen 4runner - 4wd w/ locker - ARB bumper, 10K Smittybilt winch, Victory 4x4 roof rack, All Pro Sliders, Tundra 5100, OME springs (3in lift), 31 in Kumo A/T tires (265/70/r16), Custom Rear Bumper, Full Body Armor (Front, transfer case, lower control arms, rear control arms, rear lower shocks, gas tank, rear diff) - 265K miles.

Daily: 2000 SR5 3rd gen 4runner - 4wd - Tundra 5100, OME springs (3in lift), 32 in Falken Wildpeak AT3W (275/70/r16) - 245K miles
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