02-02-2015, 01:36 PM
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#1
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Engine Trouble caused by driving without oil
Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner and love it. When I bought the car I knew it had an oil leak. I would routinely check the oil and make sure it was at an appropriate level. I let my sister borrow the car for 2 weeks and completely forgot to remind her about the oil leak.
She was driving on the freeway when the oil light went on and smelt an odor she describes as burning oil or "brakes", the car rattled to a halt as she pulled over. She called me and I immediately met her with 5qts of 10W-40 oil. I poured the oil in after checking the oil level and drove to my house (about 30 miles) I noticed a drop in power and a loud-ish knocking noise particularly in the higher RPMs. I am afraid there is likely to be some major engine damage. That being said I would love some advice on how to diagnose the problem(s) the car will have and the different scenarios that are associated with the problems the car faces.
Thanks everyone!
Rich
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02-02-2015, 02:00 PM
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#2
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Do you have the 3.4L engine? It takes 5w30. Not sure if that's part of your problem, but figured I'd point it out.
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02-02-2015, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Normally when this happens the motor gets so hot that it destroys the rod bearings. Which is the knocking sounds. You should hear it at idle and it gets louder with rev. If the motor was driven with all oil missing and powered off due to this im guessing entire motor needs rebuilt. I would get a good mechanic to verify but I would think about new motor time.
Last time I had this happen my oil gauge line broke in my talon, was 2am and jamming music. Next thing you know motor shuts off, I look at temp which is pegged, oil pressure all gone. I ended up welding #1 rod to the crank. Motor would not turn at all, when I was rolling and she died I dropped clutch and tires locked because it was welded together. Not fun.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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02-02-2015, 02:08 PM
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#4
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Sorry to tell you, but the engine is in its twilight days now. Being a Toyota, it might truck along for a bit more. But the knocking sound is a telltale sign that the bearings are toast.
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02-02-2015, 02:20 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brique
Do you have the 3.4L engine? It takes 5w30. Not sure if that's part of your problem, but figured I'd point it out.
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LOL, that is not the problem Oil is oil, it will do its job. I mean even some gear oil in the motor would have been better. No oil is not good.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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02-02-2015, 02:28 PM
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#6
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I have to ask where the oil was leaking from. It must have been leaking badly in order for your sis to spin a bearing in it in only 2 weeks. Without a major overhaul, the knock will only get worse.
Look for a used engine. Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market.
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02-02-2015, 02:35 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFRnoob
Hello everyone,
I have a 1999 Toyota 4Runner and love it. When I bought the car I knew it had an oil leak. I would routinely check the oil and make sure it was at an appropriate level. I let my sister borrow the car for 2 weeks and completely forgot to remind her about the oil leak.
She was driving on the freeway when the oil light went on and smelt an odor she describes as burning oil or "brakes", the car rattled to a halt as she pulled over. She called me and I immediately met her with 5qts of 10W-40 oil. I poured the oil in after checking the oil level and drove to my house (about 30 miles) I noticed a drop in power and a loud-ish knocking noise particularly in the higher RPMs. I am afraid there is likely to be some major engine damage. That being said I would love some advice on how to diagnose the problem(s) the car will have and the different scenarios that are associated with the problems the car faces.
Thanks everyone!
Rich
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Sounds like motor lower end. Top end would probably make the noise all the time. Most likely rod bearings/piston rod, maybe piston wristpin or lastly main bearings/ crankshaft which would be affected by a rod failure. Any way you slice it if your taking the bottom end apart, it all needs to be rebuilt. Which essentially means a motor replacement. Best options are a used motor with decent miles or one of those JDM motors I've read about which are also used. Whatever you do don't try to rebuild it unless you know what you're doing and even then I still wouldn't do it. I wish you well.
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Last edited by JRZEE2000TR4LTD; 02-02-2015 at 02:38 PM.
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02-02-2015, 02:44 PM
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#8
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As already said, it was ran dry, and bearing(s) got way too hot, and seized. Yes, once they cool down, you can sometimes get the engine to run again, poorly, for a short period of time. But the damage is done.
It's time to rebuild or replace the engine.
10w40 is fine to use, as long as the temperature doesn't get below approx. 0° F.
The reason that Toyota recommends 5w30, is mainly due to CAFE. It will cover the ambient temperature range generally seen in the USA, but it also offers a very slight improvement in MPG over a 10w40, due to less hydrodynamic drag in the engine from the oil itself.
Last edited by 02SE; 02-02-2015 at 02:49 PM.
Reason: typo
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02-02-2015, 02:45 PM
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#9
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R & R Engine = 19 hrs= 1,520.00
EVAc and Charge A/c System- 35.00
Engine Install Kit (Belts, Hoses, Gaskets, Etc) 150-300
Engine- 1,000 with out warranty- with up to 1700 ish for around a 100k Used Engine
2705.00-3,555.00
This is a good idea of what you are looking at if you take it to a shop for repairs/replacement.
This is what I would hand a customer in they were in our shop.
Information is power, I hope that it helps.
Good luck man.
I'm sorry this happened.
Blue
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02-02-2015, 05:59 PM
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#10
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Thanks for the help everyone! Okay, so here are a few symptoms I found upon a more careful inspection that may help narrow the focus of the possible issues at hand. I suspect a cracked head or head gasket because there seems to be coolant towards the front end of the engine bay.
New symptoms are as follows:
coolant leaking from unknown source towards the front end of the engine bay.
when going in reverse, there is a pulsing.
The higher the RPMs, the louder the noise is.
No significant noise when in neutral.
Noise (clacking) occurs when turning on the car and when I am driving especially over 25mph.
Anyway, I hope this helps a little bit. I will be checking the compression later as well as checking for metal shavings in my oil later tonight. Any comments/ suggestions?
Thanks again all!
-Rich
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02-02-2015, 06:07 PM
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#11
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Hate to put it so bluntly but your engine is toast !
Find a decent used one and somebody to put it in for you.
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02-02-2015, 06:17 PM
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#12
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I don't mean to be blunt, but you most likely spun your rod bearings. The motor is toast.
Anymore investigating you do at this point is purely silly.
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02-02-2015, 06:18 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenvilleter
Hate to put it so bluntly but your engine is toast !
Find a decent used one and somebody to put it in for you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brveagle
I don't mean to be blunt, but you most likely spun your rod bearings. The motor is toast.
Anymore investigating you do at this point is purely silly. .
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Whoa, mirror response.
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02-02-2015, 06:48 PM
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#14
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Same thing happend to my BMW... it was mostly the connecting rod bearings and a little extra wear on the main bearings.
I did the work for about $300, big job.
Can you pop in conrod bearings just by cracking the oil pan like a BMW?
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02-02-2015, 08:45 PM
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#15
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Kiss that motor goodbye.. unless you want to be stranded on the side of the highway. I would stop driving it.
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