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Old 08-01-2021, 10:07 AM #1
98Base4R 98Base4R is offline
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Any Timing Belt Experts in Kansas City?

I'm in western KC, by Legends. Yesterday kiddo and I got most of the way through the timing belt service on his '02, but are stuck on getting the new TB on. We have gotten the good out of the project, worked slowly and learned. We have gotten it on, but we're a gear cog or so off each time. If we had the belt back on, I'm confident we can re-assemble the rest, refill coolant, etc. ourselves.

If you are local and a whiz at these things, it is worth $100 cash to me to watch you work your magic and get the belt on with everything lined up. Truck is parked outside, with a nice shade canopy over it. We're both vaccinated, and will maintain our distance (virus is picking back up in Wyandotte Co).

PM or replies would be appreciated.
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Old 08-01-2021, 10:16 AM #2
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Just incase there isn't anyone local...

Did you loosen the tensioner?

Toyota Timing Belt Replacement (PART 2) for 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE (4runner, Tacoma, Tundra & T100) - YouTube

Should be at the right time, but it's 6:26 incase not
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Old 08-01-2021, 10:39 AM #3
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That is a very good idea. I did back off on the upper idler pulley, but I had not found / think of loosening the tensioner.

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2021, 11:37 AM #4
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Originally Posted by 98Base4R View Post
That is a very good idea. I did back off on the upper idler pulley, but I had not found / think of loosening the tensioner.

Thanks!

Iíve done both to get it slipped over the correct cog.


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Old 08-01-2021, 12:14 PM #5
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To get started, I'm trying to do this:

1) Line up the crankshaft to it's pointer, driver's side and passenger side cam pulleys to their marks
2) Loosen up tensioner and upper idler pulley, located between two cam pulleys
3) Put the belt mark on the right place on the crankshaft (belt mark ends up being about 3:00 IIRC)
4) Clamp the belt on the crankshaft
5) Route up and around the water pump, to the driver's side cam pulley
6) As tight as I try to make it, the belt still wants to land a cog off

So I'm hardly out of the starting gate on this, and can't loosen the water pump pulley. We were able to get past this point yesterday, so it might just be beat up hands aren't able to pull it as tight as yesterday?



Any more tips to get started, before the idler and tensioner even come into play?

Thanks, and I'm still interested in someone coming by and doing this for us.
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Old 08-01-2021, 12:59 PM #6
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I've done a few of these, haven't had any issues that I recall so I'm not sure what's going on with yours. I do start at the TOP with the camshafts and get those on right first (IIRC, been a couple years). But, if you're consistently 1 tooth off, start 1-tooth off the other way... meaning "guesstimate" where it needs to be for a Final install that's spot on.

Remember, doesn't matter how it starts, only how it finishes.
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Old 08-01-2021, 02:20 PM #7
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I tried Brian.'s cam pulley first approach, and along with loosening idler and tensioner, it slid on like butter. So thanks for that advice!

I was still a tooth off on the crankshaft on the L-Cam R-Cam CR line up, but the according to the belt I was on the mark. The L-Cam belt mark doesn't quite match the pulley mark, so I think that might be the issue. I counted the teeth on the belt, and I'm searching to see if someone has counted teeth, so I can check how many teeth should be between L-Cam and CR, R-Cam and CR.
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Old 08-01-2021, 03:04 PM #8
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The line on the belt for L Cam seemed a bit off, so I counted teeth and verified that was correct.

I started one tooth off (counter clockwise), and when I tightened up the tensioner, the crankshaft was lined up correctly. We rotated it through 10X, and are satisfied.

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2021, 03:23 PM #9
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Glad that worked out for you!
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Old 08-01-2021, 11:02 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98Base4R View Post
To get started, I'm trying to do this:

1) Line up the crankshaft to it's pointer, driver's side and passenger side cam pulleys to their marks
2) Loosen up tensioner and upper idler pulley, located between two cam pulleys
3) Put the belt mark on the right place on the crankshaft (belt mark ends up being about 3:00 IIRC)
4) Clamp the belt on the crankshaft
5) Route up and around the water pump, to the driver's side cam pulley
6) As tight as I try to make it, the belt still wants to land a cog off

So I'm hardly out of the starting gate on this, and can't loosen the water pump pulley. We were able to get past this point yesterday, so it might just be beat up hands aren't able to pull it as tight as yesterday?



Any more tips to get started, before the idler and tensioner even come into play?

Thanks, and I'm still interested in someone coming by and doing this for us.

I suggest a different way to get the belt on.

#1, You don't need the upper idler pulley loose. Tighten it to spec.

#2, Start with the belt on the right cam pulley (passenger side) and line up the belt mark with the cam pulley timing notch and put a big binder clip on it to keep it in place.

#3, Route the belt under the upper idler pulley and over to the left cam pulley (driver side) and make sure the timing belt mark lines up with the cam pulley timing notch and put a binder clip on this one as well.

#4, Route the belt around the water pump pulley

#5, This is where it's most important, stretch the belt as tight as you can and get the crankshaft timing belt mark lined up the mark on the crankshaft timing gear. When you're pulling, the cams might move a bit but it's not a big deal as long as the timing belt is still on the camshafts correctly with the timing marks lined up. If the belt timing marks are lined up with all 3 timing marks (both cam pulleys and crankshaft timing gear), you're good.

#6, Next, slip the belt onto the lower pulley and this shouldn't be a huge fight if you backed off the tensioner bolts enough.

#7, Lastly, turn the crankshaft 2 full revolutions and then verify all 3 timing marks are lined up. The camshaft pulleys with their respective timing marks behind and the crankshaft timing gear with the mark on the oil pump housing. With the tensioner bolts not fully tightened yet, this does allow some slack in the belt and the timing marks might look slightly off, like around a 1/2 tooth off. If that's the case, you are most likely spot on, but to take any doubt out, tighten the tension bolts fully and then do two more full revolutions of the crankshaft and now you should be able to see that all 3 timing marks line up perfectly. If they don't line up perfectly, loosen the tensioner bolts some, pull off the belt and do the whole procedure again. You should be able to get all the timing marks lined up perfectly. A tooth off is not acceptable and your engine timing will be off.

I hope this helps out people who find this thread and are also looking for help getting their belt on correctly.
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Last edited by mtbtim; 08-02-2021 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 08-01-2021, 11:05 PM #11
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Well, I guess I typed the above for nothing since you figured it out. Yeah, the belt will look slightly off until the tensioner is fully tightened. But, with my experience, it doesn't appear to be a full tooth off, maybe a 1/2 tooth until the tensioner is tightened.
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:26 AM #12
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Timing Belt Installation Step By Step

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
Well, I guess I typed the above for nothing since you figured it out. Yeah, the belt will look slightly off until the tensioner is fully tightened. But, with my experience, it doesn't appear to be a full tooth off, maybe a 1/2 tooth until the tensioner is tightened.
No, you stated the steps succinctly and clearly, and 100s or 1000s of future TB installers will find them here. I think the steps you listed are what I will follow next time. You are correct that as long as you have the belt binder clipped to the cams, it doesn't matter if you rotate the cams a few degrees when sliding the belt on the crankshaft.

It is also worth restating that the belt is marked for use when initially installing only. The marks don't line up once the engine is rotated through.

Thanks again for the help. We made a tool to hold the harmonic balancer while tightening the crank bolt. Once we get everything re-assembled, we should be starting it up today or tomorrow.
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:02 PM #13
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Am I the only one who clamps and pins the tensioner completely open using this tool? You don't even have to struggle past the A/C compressor to get to the bolts. Amazon.com: Schley (SCH97300) Toyota Timing Belt Tensioner Compressor: Automotive. Makes this whole issue, a non-issue. Also allows for a water pump replacement without removing the timing belt at all.
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Old 08-08-2021, 08:48 PM #14
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Given all the work involved you will want to replace everything inside, idlers, etc. especially since the new stiff belt will put more stress on them. Obviously replace the water pump and gasket.
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